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1977 GMC Jimmy High Sierra

Stock/mild

warrpath4x4

1/2 ton status
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Prosser, WA
warrpath4x4 submitted a new Build:

1977 GMC Jimmy High Sierra

Just picked this up today, 1977 GMC Jimmy High Sierra with the gold/yellow trim, blue plaid interior, a/c, cruise, dealership installed roll bar, with detachable off-road lights. it has 126,000 original miles, was picked up at an estate auction from the guy i bought it from, he pulled the tank and had it blasted, replaced the fuel lines and pump, changed the diff fluids, changed the tires/wheels (it was already lifted). Right now the plans are to finish cleaning it and more maintenance, get a part time kit and some hubs to hopefully improve the mileage a couple digits. It has a 400/400/203 with Dana 44 front 12 bolt rear with 3.73's.

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Read more about this build here...
 
Let the parts ordering begin, it needs a starter (new one in the back) so I am going to do the ferd starter solenoid upgrade, ordered a NP203 part time kit and a set of hubs.
 
I opted for the smaller hi torque starter like the late 90s trucks had. Much more compact and away from the exhaust, and they also spin faster

Also it helps to keep the wiring tucked below instead of rerouted for the solenoid.
Just food for thought
 
The battery that came in this thing was SMALL, I am putting a group 31 battery in but it wont fit the original tray, plus the original tray while not rusted clean through... wasnt in the best shape. I am using 1/8" angle iron and some sheet metal to build a new tray.

I made my supporting bracket 90 degrees, then realized the core support is not straight up and down so I had to modify it.
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final test fit before "paint", im actually using a rubber undercoating.
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only issue is that the original overflow bottle wont fit now so I will get a smaller aftermarket one.
 
What a weekend!

I was sick Friday, Saturday the mega cab eats the wiring for the fan clutch and i round off the fan clutch trying to remove it (even with the fan clutch tools). After looking at it we think the fan ate the wiring before we even owned it. Then the water pump in the TJ goes out. I did however build some battery cables for the Jimmy.

Sunday I replaced the TJ water pump, worked with our livestock and cleaned stalls but i was able to go mount the battery tray and atleast hook up 3 of my new cables.

2 grounds and one power to the ford starter solenoid.


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Looks good what size cable did you use? Do you know what size the stud on the starter is?
 
I am seriously contemplating selling this thing, mainly just because its pretty rare and in good shape and I cringe when I think about cutting body panels or smashing it on a tree/rock.
 
This thing really hates starters lol

when i got it the starter was hit and miss, we will call this starter #1

starter #2 blew up after a couple cranks. (thought i had a pic) the end housing of the starter broke off.

starter #3 cranked a couple of times then got stuck on the flywheel I am aware the issue was that it was not shimmed correctly but with the nose cones on them its a pain to get the measurements. i was playing with the quantity of shims when it got stuck and i could hear the solenoid buzzing.

starter #4 i wasnt playing around. i got a mini starter without a nose cone, had to shim the starter back from the starters mounting block, then use 4 shims between the starter and the engine block. i have never had to run so many shims or had such an issue installing a starter lol.

BUT it runs again, also changed the transmission filter since the pan gasket was leaking (most bolts were finger tight). The front driveline gave way at some point in the past because the flange of the trans pan is bent, the exhaust is smashed in that area, and it has an aftermarket front driveline from a shop in my hometown.
 
while changing the transmission filter I verified the PO was wrong and this does not have a TH400, it has a TH350.
 
waiting on parts this week,

the shift rod/mechanism is really sloppy and the metal is worn so i am replacing it with a new lever kit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cpt-sl

"Heavy duty" headlight harness from LMC, I ran this on my 72 K5 and it really brightened the headlights.

and of course the most important is my CK5 sticker.
 
Friday night I replaced the brake master cylinder, since the previous owner snapped off one of the bleeders. Then I installed some ORD extended brake lines I got from @MAXMAN put the front brake lines back into the frame holes, someone bent the lines under the frame when installing the lift.
 
Also while changing brake lines i noticed the frame is cracked behind the steering box, common issue, so i ordered a weld in repair piece for it.

found this while changing the master cylinder, gotta love previous owners wiring.
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Who would think upgrading the headlights could be a multiple night project.... this guy!

I picked up a LMC heavy duty harness (used one on my 72 and it made a huge improvement), and some new headlights PHILIPS H6024CV Crystal Vision Ultra from rock auto for $12 a light.

old headlights, one was labeled halogen and the other i could not find a brand.
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passenger new, driver halogen. not the best picture but you can make out that the driver side has more yellow tint to it
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both of the new headlights, the thing i did not expect is the old lights illuminated more of the ground closer to the jimmy, and the new lights seem to illuminate higher up (no adjustments were made)
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unlike the 72 where the harness made a huge improvement, adding the harness did not make much of a difference here, it is slightly brighter.
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I have used several different relay banks before sealed, non-sealed, bussman, blue sea, some I have liked and others not so much. While planning the lighting for this rig I was looking for a relay bank with a switch bank like SPOD but without paying $600+ so of course to amazon I go.

Less than $100, looks well made, not completely waterproof though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QP5TQDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I was thinking of running the switch panel into the ash tray, seeing how i needed to modify it.
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no modification needed, the tab that put pressure on the ash tray puts pressure on the switch panel and holds it snuggly.

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Now I just need to make up my mind on what off-road lights to run, I am going to run some reverse lights, fog lights, and rock lights off the switches.
 
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