The taller rad is going to require you swap the upper mount, look and see if the truck it's going into has the nut inserts at the top of the rad support. When you look at it you will see what I mean. Otherwise it's just the rubbers.
CK5
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1978 Blazer/Jimmy projects
- Thread starter mac907
- Start date
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Cool trucks!
I pulled the truck from the shop early, so I could save money and do some simple remaining mods myself. New priority list:
1 Blazer twin stick shifter (May have to sawzall tranny hump hole a bit wider)
2 Blazer exhaust (currently hacked off by the t-case)
3 Blazer steering stabilizer
4 Jimmy oil leak (funds permitting, Blazer 1st)
Has anyone been able to fit a twin stick without having to trim some metal from the tranny hump?
1 Blazer twin stick shifter (May have to sawzall tranny hump hole a bit wider)
2 Blazer exhaust (currently hacked off by the t-case)
3 Blazer steering stabilizer
4 Jimmy oil leak (funds permitting, Blazer 1st)
Has anyone been able to fit a twin stick without having to trim some metal from the tranny hump?
Looks like I'll only need to shave 1/8"-1/4" off the right side of the shifter hole for the twin stick to fit without rubbing.
Also in response to an earlier issue, my radiator is no longer leaking (not sure if the shop patched it up prior to my picking it up, or if it was really just a loose hose) and to my surprise it happens to be the oversized 400sbc/454bbc model with the correct core support top in place :-)
Also in response to an earlier issue, my radiator is no longer leaking (not sure if the shop patched it up prior to my picking it up, or if it was really just a loose hose) and to my surprise it happens to be the oversized 400sbc/454bbc model with the correct core support top in place :-)
I was about to get a custom exhaust put in the Blazer from the manifolds down, then I found an impassable deal on autozone's site. Flowtech model 11500FLT headers for only $118 delivered to Alaska! To top it off, they arrive with all the stuff that their description said I'd have to buy separately (header bolts, gaskets, reducer flanges).
Now that the manifolds are swapped out, I'm thinking I'll have the headers reduced from 3" at the collector to 2 1/2", then back to a single 3" pipe at a Y pipe, with a Flowmaster super 44 somewhere before it exits behind the rear passenger tire.
Now that the manifolds are swapped out, I'm thinking I'll have the headers reduced from 3" at the collector to 2 1/2", then back to a single 3" pipe at a Y pipe, with a Flowmaster super 44 somewhere before it exits behind the rear passenger tire.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sounds like a perfect exhaust!
Cooling systems concerns...
I've run into two different concerns with my 78' K-5s:
78' Jimmy - While removing the t-stat housing I snapped off a bolt head which is now stuck in the intake manifold. So far I have the bolt (now stud) soaking in Kroil penetrating lube to loosen it and hopefully remove it by claming a vise-grip wrench on the remaining 1/8" of bolt that is sticking out. Plan-B will be drilling it out and attempting to use a bolt remover bit set.... which I've never had much luck with. Any other ideas of how to remove the steel bolt from an aluminum Edelbrock intake with out ruining the intake?
78' Blazer - This is more model specific. While monitering the temp with an infa red gun I noticed that my gauge is correct in that my engine is running super cold at around 155*. I know a new t-stat should fix this, but what is strange is that the coolant seems to be flowing in reverse with the low temp coolant coming out of the the top/driver side of the radiator and the high temp coolant coming in from the water pump on the low/passenger side of the radiator. I know there is such a thing as reverse flow water pumps, so I'm basically curious if this is a normal orientation for my truck or maybe something I should change?
I've run into two different concerns with my 78' K-5s:
78' Jimmy - While removing the t-stat housing I snapped off a bolt head which is now stuck in the intake manifold. So far I have the bolt (now stud) soaking in Kroil penetrating lube to loosen it and hopefully remove it by claming a vise-grip wrench on the remaining 1/8" of bolt that is sticking out. Plan-B will be drilling it out and attempting to use a bolt remover bit set.... which I've never had much luck with. Any other ideas of how to remove the steel bolt from an aluminum Edelbrock intake with out ruining the intake?
78' Blazer - This is more model specific. While monitering the temp with an infa red gun I noticed that my gauge is correct in that my engine is running super cold at around 155*. I know a new t-stat should fix this, but what is strange is that the coolant seems to be flowing in reverse with the low temp coolant coming out of the the top/driver side of the radiator and the high temp coolant coming in from the water pump on the low/passenger side of the radiator. I know there is such a thing as reverse flow water pumps, so I'm basically curious if this is a normal orientation for my truck or maybe something I should change?
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
Weld a not onto it. The weld wont stick to the aluminum.
Ive thought about that, but I only have an oxy/acetylene setup right now and so I'm worried that the heat effected zone being so broad might turn the aluminum into a puddle and evaporate it while I heat up the bolt to weld it. Maybe I can pull it off if I get a donut shaped piece of soapstone to protect the aluminum around the bolt.... ideas formulating.... or a large tight fitting washer may do the trick as a heat shield.
Thanks for kick-starting the train of thought y5mgisi
Thanks for kick-starting the train of thought y5mgisi
I have brazed nuts onto busted bolts or studs and had it work well enough to allow the remains to be unscrewed,without melting an aluminum part it was screwed into--the trick is to let the nut cool long enough, till its cool to the touch--by then,the heat will have been absorbed into the metal surrounding the broken part (in your case the intake)--that will expand the threaded hole slightly,and that will aid in removal...you can also direct the torch flame directly at the threaded boss to help it expand some too,while you apply force with a wrench to the nut..
Would applying heat to the manifold be better than re-spraying the bolt with penetrating lube after everything cools down, or maybe I can do both heat and lube as long as no direct flame touches the Kroil?
We'll see what works, I'll probably get ahold of a propane torch to avoid melting the aluminum with the acetylene. In my limited experience with aluminum I can hold a propane torch on it for quite some time before it melts, but acetylene eats right through it fast if you aren't super careful.
We'll see what works, I'll probably get ahold of a propane torch to avoid melting the aluminum with the acetylene. In my limited experience with aluminum I can hold a propane torch on it for quite some time before it melts, but acetylene eats right through it fast if you aren't super careful.
I've had mixed results spraying penetrant on a heated up area,sometimes instead of helping,it cools the part off,and actually "tightens" its grip on the busted bolt...I soak it down before heating it up,not sure if that helps much though,as most of it burns off instead of soaking into the threads..
I know what your saying about using a propane torch instead of the usual torches,but if your careful you can use them--just adjust the flame to a softer one than you'd use to weld with...more gas than oxogen..and keep it moving,so a puddle wont form..
I know what your saying about using a propane torch instead of the usual torches,but if your careful you can use them--just adjust the flame to a softer one than you'd use to weld with...more gas than oxogen..and keep it moving,so a puddle wont form..
Well, after quite a long break from working on my rigs I'm back at it. I ended up trying to tap the broken bolt bolt and use a reversal bit on it with penetrating lube... No luck, ultimately I ended up drilling too far and too offset/wide. I finally got the bolt loose with a little patience and a die grinder, but there was just enough thread damage to prevent me from reaching full torque spec. Thankfully, the manifold had enough meat for a heli-coil kit. The 78' Jimmy is a running parts truck once more 
The last couple weekends however were spent replacing the timing cover gasket and oil pan gasket on the 78' Blazer. Of course once I supported the engine and dropped my ORD crossmember I figured I might as well capitalize on the moment and upgrade to the following: felpro composite water pump gaskets, high volume oil pump, double roller timing chain, felpro double lip rear main seal, victor reinze lip relocator front main seal, and 6 quart stainless oil pan. As an additional note the oil pan and timing cover gaskets were also upgrades from the OE type and were both the new felpro steel core silicone types. When I pulled the timing cover, the timing chain was extremely loose to the point I was surprised it wasn't slipping over teeth. Pictures are of the new double roller I put in and the stock one I replaced.
