It was dark when I left this morning but I’ll get some pictures this evening
CK5
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1978 K20 farm truck "Boring maintenance phase"
- Thread starter 78K30
- Start date
1978 K20- Rusty beater farm truck
It was dark when I left this morning but I’ll get some pictures this evening
I remembered today why I have no patience for body work. If you could call this hack job bodywork
Like an idiot I failed to realize that 3 cans wouldn’t be enough to cover the red on both doors. So the passenger side is still red.
Like an idiot I failed to realize that 3 cans wouldn’t be enough to cover the red on both doors. So the passenger side is still red.
Actually yes. I also tried removing some of the flaky paint but parts of door was coming with it so I stopped. These doors are junk, like way junk but still better than the ones that were on it
My body work never works out either.
I’m glad I’m not the only one. I’m going to hire out the rocker replacement and paint job on the crew cab most likely. Which I may have to bump that project up for find another beater farm truck. Judging by the rot on this cab I may have about a year left in it before the doors start sagging
I just put up with the holey metal and saggy doors. Bodywork isn't worth my time anymore.
My issue is likely not to be a door problem, mainly that the cab mounts are almost gone so the cab will likely sag enough to make the doors not work right.
I can’t wait until @Justin V sees what kind of crap tastic work is going to happen to fix the holes in the floor so I don’t freeze to death this winter
I fix rockers by cutting them out and welding in sliders.I’m glad I’m not the only one. I’m going to hire out the rocker replacement and paint job on the crew cab most likely. Which I may have to bump that project up for find another beater farm truck. Judging by the rot on this cab I may have about a year left in it before the doors start sagging
That’s pretty much what I’m going to do. Carry on!
I fix rockers by cutting them out and welding in sliders.
My F150 got this treatment, although I welded my sliders solid to the frame as well with 4 2x2x1/4” kickers and they’re about to be tied into the cage as well. The ride is a wee bit harsh
That’s a good reminder that I should go back to the early posts and attempt to fix things. I forget where in the build it went stupid
Wow, that's work. Sorry didn't intend for you to go do that. I'm going to enjoy seeing your pics though.
Any time Man! It worked out good for me in the end, I wish I had taken an overall length measurement of both the NV4500/205 and the SM465/205
You'll find that in my thread. IIRC, it's 27.5" from the rear of the block to the transfer case mounting surface on the NV4500 tail housing. That's a slightly diagonal measurement from bolt hole to bolt hole. A late-model SM465 will be the same.
If that’s the case I’m curious why I had to have the AA spacer to make my driveshafts work. Oh well they work and I won’t complain.
Speaking of driveshafts I finally got it so my front can actually be used, more on that below.
Here’s the Advance adapters 715529 bracket bolted into place. It looks plenty stout until you go to actually shift it.
I drilled and tapped that little unused boss cast into the tail housing. Then using a piece of 3/8 threaded rod, a short chunk of pipe, and a 3/8 luck nut I reinforced the shifter bracket. This greatly increased the rigidity, it’s practically as tight as a stock version.
Used some 7/16’s rod and booger welds to modify the linkage for the shifter. Didn’t spend much time on this as I plan to use rod ends to make a better one.
And the money shot. I actually had to take it all back apart since for some reason the 205 was jammed in 1st and I had to remove the shifter to fix it. I blame Dad since he drove it back from the field last night.
Speaking of driveshafts I finally got it so my front can actually be used, more on that below.
Here’s the Advance adapters 715529 bracket bolted into place. It looks plenty stout until you go to actually shift it.
I drilled and tapped that little unused boss cast into the tail housing. Then using a piece of 3/8 threaded rod, a short chunk of pipe, and a 3/8 luck nut I reinforced the shifter bracket. This greatly increased the rigidity, it’s practically as tight as a stock version.
Used some 7/16’s rod and booger welds to modify the linkage for the shifter. Didn’t spend much time on this as I plan to use rod ends to make a better one.
And the money shot. I actually had to take it all back apart since for some reason the 205 was jammed in 1st and I had to remove the shifter to fix it. I blame Dad since he drove it back from the field last night.
