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1980 Sierra K20 --parting out

Wrench

Wrench

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Posts
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Location
Stony Plain, Alberta
I've been hoping to build this truck, but I'm not getting around to it, and I've been ordered to trim the fleet a bit after my most recent purchase (thanks again Can Can!!).

It's a 1980 K20 GMC Sierra regular cab longbox. Rear axle is a 14 bolt FF with a very effective and functional gov-lok in it, front has been swapped to a Dana 44 with external locking hubs. 3.73 gears. One of the locking hubs on the 44 is shattered. I have a brand new Detroit locker for the rear and an open carrier that I can include for the cost of the Detroit--$400.

Drivetrain is a lousy burned out 350, SM465 in good condition, and NP205. It has a 4" all spring lift on it with nearly new Rancho RS5000(?) shocks. Fenders, doors, and boxsides were replaced shortly before I bought it and are pretty much rust free, but the driver's door/fender were colliding and got wrinkled by the PO.

Rockers and cab floor are badly rusted, wiring is crappy. I have some new front trim/grill. Tires are 285/75/R16 BFG All-Terrains on 16x8 wagon wheels at about 60-70% tread.

Needs lots of work, but good base for a great build up. Asking $500 . . . pics tomorrow when it's light out
 
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Pics . . ..

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How much for the box? Did they replace them with OEM sides, or aftermarket?

I can't cover the cost of the detroit right now (busy paying off my Visa before the market tanks too badly), but I'll be wanting it later on for my diesel.
 
Russell said:
How much for the box? Did they replace them with OEM sides, or aftermarket?
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Good question, I'll look in the morning for some OEM tags, any tips on ID'ing? They are grey primer . . . I'll also get better pics for you, are you wanting just the sides or the whole box? the floor is pretty ratched, I'll try to figure out how to take the sides off for interest sake . . .:o

Russell said:
I can't cover the cost of the detroit right now (busy paying off my Visa before the market tanks too badly), but I'll be wanting it later on for my diesel.
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Cool ;)
 
My floor is in great shape, but my box sides both have rust holes in them.

There isn't really any good way to tell the difference between OEM and aftermarket other than sound and looks. If its wavy along the side, and sounds like lighter metal when you knock on it, it is aftermarket. If it is straight, and sounds solid, then its an OEM box.

Best way to find out is to park a known OEM truck beside it and knock on both box sides :)

Changing box sides out isn't a particularly easy job though, gotta cut a bunch of spot welds and undo a couple dozen bolts. I'd probably just take the whole box.

Does it have dual tanks?
 
Can you open gas filler door and snap a picture of how filler neck mounts to bed. Mine has been flopping in breeze from previous owner. I have 80 K20 also. Thanks !
 
the bedsides bolt to the bed floor, the wheel wells, the front of the box. theres about 145 bolts that hold the bed together and on the truck i think. only on newer trucks are the beds spot welded together. on our old chevy's they are bolted and seam sealed together
 
chevyridinhigh79 said:
the bedsides bolt to the bed floor, the wheel wells, the front of the box. theres about 145 bolts that hold the bed together and on the truck i think. only on newer trucks are the beds spot welded together. on our old chevy's they are bolted and seam sealed together
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Except for the rear. They are welded there to the last crossmember and uprights that the taillights sit in.
 
Hey guys, I'll get pictures and info for you all when I get home Saturday night, I'm working down in Lethbridge until then . ..
 
Russell said:
My floor is in great shape, but my box sides both have rust holes in them.

There isn't really any good way to tell the difference between OEM and aftermarket other than sound and looks. If its wavy along the side, and sounds like lighter metal when you knock on it, it is aftermarket. If it is straight, and sounds solid, then its an OEM box.

Best way to find out is to park a known OEM truck beside it and knock on both box sides :)

Changing box sides out isn't a particularly easy job though, gotta cut a bunch of spot welds and undo a couple dozen bolts. I'd probably just take the whole box.

Does it have dual tanks?
Click to expand...

Ok, I took a bunch of pics for you, as you can see it's got some rash, but all rust is light surface stuff. Not show material for sure . . . It does have dual tanks, and it feels about the same as my OEM sides on my halfton, but it's not exactly dead straight either . . .
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Let me know if you're interested . . .
 
Based on the pushed in sides, I'm gonna guess those are aftermarket...

I think I'd probably be better off putting the effort into fixing my OEM sides. They have a bit of rust around the wheel wells, but otherwise are straight and rust free.
 
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