1982 6.2 C and J

[bridgeguy]

Well, I've tried some searches both here and throughout the web. Main problem is that I'm on dial-up since they don't offer DSL where I live (I know, thinking about satellite but they keep on saying that DSL is "coming soon" so I keep limping along.)

Ok, here's the problem: got a line on an '82 Suburban with a Banks turboed 6.2. Personally, was looking for a diesel so the Banks is just a bonus. Has ~165k miles, 4x4, but is a half-ton for $1500.

What I'm looking for is what transfer, trans, etc. that it might/should have and if this is a decent price for a normal wear and tear Burb. Has a trans with 300 miles on it (supposedely), new batteries, and sundry other bits and pieces, but don't know if the 6.2 C will live behind the turbo well, or what the actual differences are between the C and J. I cross posted to the Suburban forum as well but I'm looking for the info on the drivetrain and engine in particular.

When I worked for GM parts about 13 years ago, I do remember that the C tended to lift the heads when turboed, but that might just be a bad memory thing happening instead of actual fact.

Thanks for helping.

 

[bear76]

The trans is most likly the 700 (blah), and maybe the np208. The enigine itself, being an 82, is the good block with a higher nickel content (stronger). It will have differnt injectors than the newer engines, it has course threads which can be hard to find IIRC. As for the "c" vs "j" codes, the only differnce is the intake mani. You can find the J's on the cucv's and it flows better. Look on e-gay for a j code. You can also change the head studs out for stronger ones if your worried about popping the heads.

If the body is sound, I would jump on it for that price.

 

[cegusman]

The difference between the c and j is the egr setup. The j does not have egr.

 

[tRustyK5]

The 'J' code as mentioned has no EGR system, so the intake flows a bit better. However, I have heard the 'C' code heads have larger valves...and I have read that in several different places. I just had the heads off of my '83 'C' code and the valves are quite large, but I didn't have any 'J' code heads to compare with.

It will have a 700R-4 and NP208. Both are OK. 700R-4's tend not to like tall gearing and big tires though, or anything that makes the truck lug. Heat is the enemy...

The 208 is decent, with a 2.61:1 low range...but no easy way to get rid of the slip yoke.

$1500.00 is a good deal if the body is even just fair. The turbo stuff alone costs over $2K brand new.

I just did head gaskets on my 'C' code. I don't tow, or run around with thousands of lbs of crap in the bed, and it had not overheated...yet a head gasket failed. When I was dis-assembling the top end I noticed three or four head bolts on the passenger side seemed a lot less tight than the remaining head bolts. No coincidence that they were around the cylinder that was the problem. Torque to yield bolts just seem like a piss-poor idea to me...

I took no chances and replaced the TTY head bolts with ARP head studs. Now when I install the ATS turbo set-up on this motor I know the head bolts and head gaskets shouldn't be a problem.

Rene

 

[DEMON44]

So guys, I know this is older topic but a J code intake on C code heads with banks would be a good setup for running around?

 

[imiceman44]

So guys, I know this is older topic but a J code intake on C code heads with banks would be a good setup for running around?

A J code intake is already an improvement, adding the turbo will only ake it better.
You could also get the J code heads but I think it's not a noticeable gain once you have the turbo on.
If you decide you want them I have J code heads.
And intakes in case you didn't have one already.

 

[DEMON44]

ok, thanks. I'm going to pickup that '91 v3500 drivetrain next weekend. and I'm just planning ahead a little.

 

[tRustyK5]

'C' code heads have larger valves if you can believe it...so I'd keep them, but swap to the 'J' code manifold and block off the EGR ports with the correct gaskets.

Rene

 

[DEMON44]

thanks, I recall you mentioning that somewhere I think.

kind of excited to swap '91 v3500 drivetrain into a K5 for a daily driver 4wd. and let my 12v dually build go into race mode


ok one other Question for the 6.2 brain trust: projected/speculated MPG of the said '91 V3500 banks turbo'd 6.2 4L80E 205 in a K5 truck. with say 33" tires. and a reasonable gear ratio in the diffs. no hotrodding the engine either. just straight daily driving to work and whatever.

 

[imiceman44]

thanks, I recall you mentioning that somewhere I think.

kind of excited to swap '91 v3500 drivetrain into a K5 for a daily driver 4wd. and let my 12v dually build go into race mode


ok one other Question for the 6.2 brain trust: projected/speculated MPG of the said '91 V3500 banks turbo'd 6.2 4L80E 205 in a K5 truck. with say 33" tires. and a reasonable gear ratio in the diffs. no hotrodding the engine either. just straight daily driving to work and whatever.

I was getting 20MPG driving agressive with a 6.2 Banks turbo, 33" tires 4.10 gears and 700R4

 

[tRustyK5]

I'd guess 20-22 mpg (US gallon) possibly better than that...

near enough to 10L/100 km.

Rene

 

[la-zdunck]

i searched, and this thread pertains most to my situation, so i'm posting this here.

i just swamped my m1009, my rear main is leaking bad, and i have a new ticking noise. (like a lifter or something) although the truck still runs good, a friend has a 6.2 that ran good out of a civilian model truck.

my truck has been already converted to 12volts, but not sure what that entailed as it was done by the previous owner. would my glowplug and ignition system now be the same as acivilian 6.2?

can i bolt in the civilian 6.2 with my j-code intake and have the same 165h.p. number? or would i be running the c-code 130h.p. now?

are there any other differences between my cucv j-code and the civilian engine i'm looking to swap? someone mentioned to block the egr ports with the correct gaskets, which is the correct gasket, and is that all that needs to be done?

thanks

 

[Russell]

Make sure you get J code intake gaskets (to block off the ports like you mentioned), and install both the J code intake and your J code injection pump to maintain your original 165hp

Infact, if the rumour that C code heads have larger valves is true, you could potentially be making more power with the J code intake & injection pump combined with the C code heads.