1984 465 not shifting..

[821tondump]

I have a 1984 Chevy k30 dump truck that has always shifted fine and ran great. But the other night(4 hours into plowing)..the truck started to not want to shift and was trying to grind gears and sometimes stick into gear.

I do drive on a lot of muddy gravel roads and was thinking that the z bar was seized up form debris and the cold. Do I regreased it and it has started to shift a lot better but I still have to sometimes pump the clutch and shift to second first then go to 1st or even reverse.

The tranny fluid is full and clean, the adjuster rod on the fork is good with no slop.
I didn't have this problem at all until I was 4 hrs into plowing some snow. And the tranny isn't making any growling noises or anything.

 

[Bent77]

I would bet your clutch isn’t disengaging completely when you push the pedal

 

[821tondump]

I would bet your clutch isn’t disengaging completely when you push the pedal

Would the clutch of got out just like that? When it worked perfectly even the day before? I got the pedal to free up today by greasing up the z bar again(pushed the old crudy grease out (as the other day the clutch pedal was very stiff without much movement) and was working a lot better today.
Or do you think I need to replace the clutch completely?

 

[imiceman44]

Would the clutch of got out just like that? When it worked perfectly even the day before? I got the pedal to free up today by greasing up the z bar again(pushed the old crudy grease out (as the other day the clutch pedal was very stiff without much movement) and was working a lot better today.
Or do you think I need to replace the clutch completely?

I would check the adjustment first.
Working on plowing for 4 hours does put a strain on the clutch so yes it could happen.
Then again it could be what happened to me and you broke one or more of the springs so it's not disengaging properly.

 

[Bent77]

Yep could be any number of things as mentioned above. Start making sure the release is in the middle of the pedal travel, or make an adjustment
Could be the clutch didn't like 4 hours of plowing

 

[821tondump]

Greased it up some more today and adjusted the linkage and it was working fine while it was a warm 35° today. But then tried it a little bit ago, and it won't shift at all again.
I had someone else push the clutch in for me so I can watch the linkage..and noticed that once the clutch is pushed in, the cab wants to lift up some on the driver's side, then go back down when the clutch is released. Seems kinda odd to me to do that . And I'm not getting much pedal movement either.

 

[6872xtc]

If the cab is moving when working the clutch, I would wonder if the release bearing is not sliding on the front bearing retainer of the transmission. Maybe it's gotten some corrosion and then has galled the bushing inside of the release bearing?
This could be incorrect, or you may not be able to see it. I can't remember if all of the bellhousings have an inspection hole in the bottom.

Obviously, you would also check the cab mounts as well. I assume that you have already looked at them when you saw the cab moving.

 

[821tondump]

If the cab is moving when working the clutch, I would wonder if the release bearing is not sliding on the front bearing retainer of the transmission. Maybe it's gotten some corrosion and then has galled the bushing inside of the release bearing?
This could be incorrect, or you may not be able to see it. I can't remember if all of the bellhousings have an inspection hole in the bottom.

Obviously, you would also check the cab mounts as well. I assume that you have already looked at them when you saw the cab moving.

Mine has a homemade hole in the bottom, thought about inserting the camera in there to check it out. If it is stuck, any way of living it up to make it slide without getting on the disc? Also, the cab is rust free with new cab mounts that's are in pretty good shape still.

 

[6872xtc]

Mine has a homemade hole in the bottom, thought about inserting the camera in there to check it out. If it is stuck, any way of living it up to make it slide without getting on the disc? Also, the cab is rust free with new cab mounts that's are in pretty good shape still.

I would try some penetrating oil since you should be able to spray it up with a straw to pinpoint as best as possible.
I don't know how you can get much into the barrel of the bushing if it won't move much, though. If it will move, having someone push the pedal should reveal more of the bearing support.

 

[HawK5]

Definitely throw the camera in there, I used an Amazon iPhone bore-scope to diagnose some clutch issues. One of the most clutch (no pun intended) tools I’ve ever purchased.
Without making any assumptions, just confirming you’re are using the correct gl-4 oil? Hard to find these days, I’ve heard of lots of shifting issues when using gl-5

 

[Bent77]

Definitely throw the camera in there, I used an Amazon iPhone bore-scope to diagnose some clutch issues. One of the most clutch (no pun intended) tools I’ve ever purchased.
Without making any assumptions, just confirming you’re are using the correct gl-4 oil? Hard to find these days, I’ve heard of lots of shifting issues when using gl-5

Gl4 seems to be the Muncie preference due to synchros. As we know, 465s don’t need no synchros
I ran gl5 in mine for years but eventually went to synthetic Dex VI. Take of that what you will

 

[HawK5]

Gl4 seems to be the Muncie preference due to synchros. As we know, 465s don’t need no synchros
I ran gl5 in mine for years but eventually went to synthetic Dex VI. Take of that what you will

Yeah I can’t speak from experience, I was advised to only run gl-4, lots of people saying shifting is much worse without it.. when I went to get gl-4 it was very hard to find locally..
The issues I’ve had with my 465 were all shift linkage related..

 

[Bent77]

Yeah seems you have to order it

Most all of the newer standards use Synchromesh or Mobil 1 syn ATF