Good morning .FNG here! I recently bought a 84 k5 with a 6.2 in it. It hasn’t run in 10 yrs or so, so im gonna start working it shortly. My question is can you remove the ecm and emission garbage without any major issues? From the schematics I’ve seen it looks like that ecm controls the tcc lock up! Maybe wire a switch to control that?
CK5
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1984 k5 6.2 emissions
- Thread starter RYNO84
- Start date
All there should be is an egr valve and a solenoid that controls it. You can easily cap off the vacuum line at the solenoid and I had to build a block off plate for my egr valve. It's mounted in the center of the air filter in the intake manifold.
That’s sounds easy enough. But what about the tps sensor on the side of the pump? And it also has a ALDL port under the dash. Is all this garbage on there cause it a CA emissions?
Truckman4life is right on with the EGR delete.
It should not effect your electronic/vacuum controlled TPS equipment.
To do a true delete, you should also disconnect the exhaust from the manifold and remove that metal shutter. I’ll get ya a pic of it when I get off work.
Edit: in addition, a J code intake plenum would help you a lot with more air flow.
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The tcc can be controlled with out a computer on the 700r4. requires a new solenoid in the valve body and some wiring.
Sweet!! Yeah I’m gonna Gut all that stuff out of there since it really doesn't serve a purpose anymore.
@2INSANE I see you pretty savvy with the 6.2. I just bought this blazer on a smokin deal and it hasnt ran 10-12 years! Any suggestions on what to go through before trying to fire?
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rampage
3/4 ton status
Are you sure you don’t need a smog test? Some counties, even though there isn’t a biannual test, do require one when there’s a change of ownership or when you first move there. Might want to research before you remove stuff or is this for off-road use only?
Yes I have looked in to this and I found this on the CA dmv website
rampage
3/4 ton status
Here’s the pics I promised you of the egr shutter that you should cut out. See the restrictiveness? If you don’t want to cut it out or disconnect the exhaust, you can disconnect/remove the actuator and weld or wire the shutter open.
1. Make sure crank turns with a 24mm deep socket and breaker bar.
2. Replace ALL fluids and ALL filters including fuel and grease every zerk on the truck.
3. Prime oil and prime fuel.
4. Test glow plugs and make sure they work.
5. Good batteries hooked up to a set of jumper cables on another vehicle and crank away to get it running. Might take awhile to get the fresh fluid flowing threw the whole system. You could easily see 30+ minutes of cranking with breaks before it fires up. Crank 8 seconds, take 1 minute break. Repeat.
6. You can pour some diesel fluid in the intake or WD-40 to help ease the hard start.
7. Once it is running, expect every gasket, O-ring, hose, etc to leak or sweat from the old age of dry rot.
The 6.2/6.5 diesels are exempt from smog and emissions in all states from my understanding because they are considered a classic/vintage car. Some motors even have an exempt sticker on the motor/valve cover so the inspector can verify. Best to ask an inspector and double check the codes before modifying anything.
Edit: Also get the compression test done asap! If your compression is good, I recommend a turbo! Adding a turbo to a 6.2 really makes a huge difference and will bring you big smiles. Also expect to get many many compliments and questions every time you stop at a gas station. After awhile, they get annoying.
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rampage
3/4 ton status
I’m thinking it is too but I’d get an official word from someone before doing it just to be safe. You know how CA is.
2insane’s Oil priming instructions:
1. Remove Oil Pump Drive/Vacuum pump. Pic 1, 15mm socket with 6”-8” extension.
2. Use shop vac and razor blade and carefully clean surface area. Pic 2.
3. 6”-8” long hex extension on cordless drill. Pics 3-4
4. Turn clockwise for 15 minutes. If you turn too fast, oil will come out. Pic 5-6
5. Install new gasket and torque to 25 foot pounds after clocking the Vacuum pump to about a 90 degree angle to help keep the water and dust out of the vacuum pump filter.
1. Remove Oil Pump Drive/Vacuum pump. Pic 1, 15mm socket with 6”-8” extension.
2. Use shop vac and razor blade and carefully clean surface area. Pic 2.
3. 6”-8” long hex extension on cordless drill. Pics 3-4
4. Turn clockwise for 15 minutes. If you turn too fast, oil will come out. Pic 5-6
5. Install new gasket and torque to 25 foot pounds after clocking the Vacuum pump to about a 90 degree angle to help keep the water and dust out of the vacuum pump filter.
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You can quickly prime your fuel by removing the glow plugs, disconnecting the injection pump 12v wire on the top and crank until fuel blows out of the glow plug holes.
After fuel blows out of all 8 glow plug holes, install glow plugs and the 12v wire on IP. Once running, take to car wash and clean motor bay.
After fuel blows out of all 8 glow plug holes, install glow plugs and the 12v wire on IP. Once running, take to car wash and clean motor bay.
You the man!! Awesome info!! I do have all the turbo stuff from a 6.5 if this thing checks out okay. If not I’ll pull and rebuild it. I think it’s worth it instead of putting a gasser in there. I’ll keep you posted on the progress. Thank you again!!
I can say with absolute certainty that factory vin’d diesels 97 and older do not require smog in California. I have a ‘91 crew cab diesel that came originally with a 6.2. No problems bringing it in from out of state to Ca. No smog.
rampage
3/4 ton status
And there you go.
