yes that.Or to be warm when its cold??
CK5
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1985 Chevy M1009 (CK5 build thread part 2)
- Thread starter cheavyk10
- Start date
Or to be warm when its cold??
In a pinch, some card board like material in front of the radiator does wonders to help warm'er up. I think I used a plastic real estate sign cut to size for a couple winters.
Grandad use to use feed sacks and bailing twine on his old ford diesel. Course running cattle he always had an abundance of empty sacks since he didnt feed bulk feed.
Finally got after something this weekend that has been bugging me for awhile.
The power steering pump has been crooked, baring me from tightening up the belts for the fear of belt failure. I disassembled the bracketry and found that the slotted mount that attaches on the water pump side had actually slid over the inner nut, which lives on a stud. Probably should have been a washer or flanged nut on the stud to begin with. All I had to do was add a washer on both sides of the slotted bracket on the stud and it aligned perfectly. Now I can tighten the belts up properly and have no squealing from the generator belt either.
Way better alignment:
While I was in there I cleaned up the power steering reservoir and changed the cap which seemed to be leaking for a long time. I found some NOS caps on eBay from a military surplus house, which I would hope to be better quality that the common Dorman version.
Recently, I saw Holley was having a discontinued part sale, and picked up one of their Hooker Blackheart trans x-member braces, which is designed for LS swaps, but at 50% off I said why not. It basically bolts in (OK, I had to enlarge one hole and drill another) on to the bottom of the existing crossmember, to effectively box it in. Kind of a cool widget, if nothing else.
Got some future plans coming together too:
The power steering pump has been crooked, baring me from tightening up the belts for the fear of belt failure. I disassembled the bracketry and found that the slotted mount that attaches on the water pump side had actually slid over the inner nut, which lives on a stud. Probably should have been a washer or flanged nut on the stud to begin with. All I had to do was add a washer on both sides of the slotted bracket on the stud and it aligned perfectly. Now I can tighten the belts up properly and have no squealing from the generator belt either.
Way better alignment:
While I was in there I cleaned up the power steering reservoir and changed the cap which seemed to be leaking for a long time. I found some NOS caps on eBay from a military surplus house, which I would hope to be better quality that the common Dorman version.
Recently, I saw Holley was having a discontinued part sale, and picked up one of their Hooker Blackheart trans x-member braces, which is designed for LS swaps, but at 50% off I said why not. It basically bolts in (OK, I had to enlarge one hole and drill another) on to the bottom of the existing crossmember, to effectively box it in. Kind of a cool widget, if nothing else.
Got some future plans coming together too:
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I wonder if there is such a thing for my crossmember
When I bought it, it was missing the bottom angle bracket all together. Someone probably overtightened the other bolts to compensate creating that issue.
I just looked at the Holley page, the one he bought is for the flat K10/K20 crossmembers specifically. It may still work for the flat K30/CUCV crossmember, worst case would be drilling a few extra holes. They are close dimensionally along the bottom flange and likely use the identical skid plate bolt holes.
Cool, I'm glad you added that missing piece.
I changed to the s style crossmember with my 4l80. That might work with some banging with a hammer.
I guess that'll help maybe a little but the weakest part of the trans cross member is how it bolts to the frame. No triangulation or tie in to the upper lip of the frame. At least the flat style bolts are spread apart, while the W style has bolts that are pretty close together and hangs lower. It's much easier to get caught on a rock or shovel itself while high centering.
These crossmembers are definitely flexible, one time I took one bolt out of where it mounts to the frame and lowered the jack a bit and the whole thing twisted. (The trans & T-case were still bolted up)
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Took some time at lunch today to swap on a Ruff Stuff pinion guard and a set of Great Lake Off Road yoke girdles:
I like the yoke girdles.
Oil Cooler Lines:
I have been thinking about the oil cooler lines for awhile, as I noticed some checking/dry rot on the rubber hoses. There were no leaks, but if one of the lines ruptured, it would be a bad day for the 6.2.
Old lines, which I'm sure are the originals:
When looking for replacements, there are really only three choices. A good used set, a new set from Dorman, or a set of braided stainless steel lines from Leroy Diesel. A used set would be an unknown quantity, no telling if they would be good or last. I won't use the Dorman set, as I tried some of their oil cooler lines on my S-10 and they started leaking within a few months. And as anyone who has worked on a S-10 knows, changing the oil cooler lines is a giant PITA. So, that leaves the Leroy Diesel set, which I purchased and are a bit expensive, but a least I would be one and done.
The installation of the Leroy Diesel lines is straightforward, you need to take the fittings at the block out, and reuse them on the oil cooler hardlines at the radiator. I reused the old O-rings on these fittings, although it would be nice if the kit came with new ones. At least there are only two O-rings now, and they are up top and easily accessible if they ever leak.
The finished product looks really nice, and I added some rubber hose over the lines where they contacted the frame and body a bit. And I have peace of mind knowing these lines will last.
I have been thinking about the oil cooler lines for awhile, as I noticed some checking/dry rot on the rubber hoses. There were no leaks, but if one of the lines ruptured, it would be a bad day for the 6.2.
Old lines, which I'm sure are the originals:
When looking for replacements, there are really only three choices. A good used set, a new set from Dorman, or a set of braided stainless steel lines from Leroy Diesel. A used set would be an unknown quantity, no telling if they would be good or last. I won't use the Dorman set, as I tried some of their oil cooler lines on my S-10 and they started leaking within a few months. And as anyone who has worked on a S-10 knows, changing the oil cooler lines is a giant PITA. So, that leaves the Leroy Diesel set, which I purchased and are a bit expensive, but a least I would be one and done.
The installation of the Leroy Diesel lines is straightforward, you need to take the fittings at the block out, and reuse them on the oil cooler hardlines at the radiator. I reused the old O-rings on these fittings, although it would be nice if the kit came with new ones. At least there are only two O-rings now, and they are up top and easily accessible if they ever leak.
The finished product looks really nice, and I added some rubber hose over the lines where they contacted the frame and body a bit. And I have peace of mind knowing these lines will last.
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Dude who you bought axles from sold that for 500, this guy is flipping it
You don't think I know that lol??
I just posted it on here to get some laughs
Thats quite the rig
It was quite the turd when seen in person. The guy mounted the intercooler on top of the Cummins..
Sad part was it was originally a one year only 4l80 rig.
shhhhh
