1985 K5 Blazer Restoration Advice

[Wowfactor]

I daily drove a 86 K5 all through high school and college, but ended up selling planning to grow up some before I started dental school. Now that I’m in dental school I really regret getting ride of my Blazer, as expected. But I picked up a 1985 K5 not long ago and drove it back an hour and a half no problem. So I plan on really getting started with fixing it up over my spring break.

It has some rust in the floor that needs patch but other than that it is a super clean and straight body. Mechanically is seems to be super solid, drove down the highway 75mph+ no problems, that only issue I’ve seen is the steering is super sloppy. But luckily it came with a brand new steering box and a pretty much every trim and piece needed to finish up restoring it.

I plan on painting it over the break but wanted some advice on what kind of products and how much I’m going to need. I have a buddy who has a large shop with almost everything tool wise to paint the truck and patch up the floors, so I just need to figure what to use. I’ve decided on a single stage of some kind to keep the price down with being in school and all. But I haven’t decided on the color I plan to do, I’m in between a Gloss Dark Green and a Matte Medium Grey, is there much of a difference in the process vs just using a gloss or matte clear coat?

I also plan to repaint the top to match but but wasn’t sure if I need to use a different primer or if I could just use a high build on everything. In the top there is also holes from a roof rack, filled with silicon and I can’t seem to find any info on suggested material to do the repairs if anyone knows the best method that’d be appreciated.

Along the lines of tightening up the steering, I’ve seen a lot about swapping in a XJ steering shaft. Is that something I should consider when replacing the steering box or is the difference not significant?

I appreciate any advice, I’m hoping to get a good start at getting this cleaned up. But I’m sure after the break school will keep me busy to where I won’t be able to do as much as I’d like, so I’m trying to knock out as much as I can in a week.

 

[Blue85]

All the information you need is here: https://ck5.com/forums/ck5/the-body-shop.49/

Tell us what kind of budget you're trying to work to and what kind of expectations you have for the finished product. The cost can be anything from a couple hundred dollars to a few thousand in materials. Some guys are happy to roll and tip just to get it all the same color, some want it to look like factory paint and some want it better than that.

 

[Wowfactor]

All the information you need is here: https://ck5.com/forums/ck5/the-body-shop.49/

Tell us what kind of budget you're trying to work to and what kind of expectations you have for the finished product. The cost can be anything from a couple hundred dollars to a few thousand in materials. Some guys are happy to roll and tip just to get it all the same color, some want it to look like factory paint and some want it better than that.

I appreciate you sharing that not sure how I missed it. Im definitely trying to keep it on the lower end, less than a grand. But im not expecting factory level paint but would like it to be not far off.

 

[eodcoduto]

The paint looks good on there, I’ve done wheels and a motorcycle tank so I’m pretty ignorant to the process.

 

[Wowfactor]

Finally got all of the rust cleaned up and patched, luckily it was one of the few steps in the project that hasn't had alot of suprises.

Got the rest of the body prepped and primed, ready to get painted. Built a paint booth and tossed a layer of paint on and then out of no where a storm came that was not forecasted.
Paint booth got scrapped by the wind and we ended up having to finish the project as a driveway paint job.

Had that gone to plan the paint wouldve turned out fantastic with almost no trash in it.
But as I put on the last coat on an extremely sunny day with no clouds above, about 40 rain drops fell perfectly above the Blazer. Along with a paint gun malfunction the led to the canister rolling onto a freshly painted fender, I was not the one painting at that moment.

All in all the paint still turned out really good and I really like the color. Luckily I still have alot of extra paint as I didnt do the interior besides the dash as I had planned to. So I plan to do some wet sanding and buffing to see how much of the areas I can get out of the paint. Not looking for show quality right not, as I plan to do a full rebuild after graduation dental school.

But if the paint burns through or doesnt turn out great after sanding some then I can always add another coat or two. Really wanting to get this done soon so I can install all the new weatherstripping I have and get the windows back in it.

I currently have some blocks and 1000,1500,2000 grit sand paper, I also have a DA but could get a buffing wheel if necessary. Looking for any advice on cut and buffing to get this started, since im obviously inexperienced in this area.

 

[Wowfactor]

 

[Wowfactor]

 

[Wes Harden]

Love that dark forest green. Good job. Now back to the engine picture in previous post, see that little glass fuel filter. replace that with a metal one in front of the pump. A metal fuel line from pump to as close to carb as you can get. The less rubber gas hose the better. Ideally all metal, but you'd have to bend an flair that yourself. I suspect that Edlebrock carb under the air cleaner

 

[Mateas]

Not a bad job! I've got all the PVC pipe in the garage getting ready to make my PVC paint booth out front, praying to god a freak storm doesn't blow in when I've got it up. I love painting vehicles but this is going to be the first one I'll have tried flow coating, I'm no pro but I'm a step above a hack at this point. Once the paint has completely dried, sand with 800 to 1200 grit, clean/wipe down and spray another couple coats of clear. If you search "pharraway" on youtube he does great videos of all that stuff. Really struggling with what to do about the top, mine came painted body color and that's what I'm planning on at the moment, but also contemplating white. Get you some soundproofing for the floor before you put the carpet back down. As for the steering, have you tried turning the magic screw on the steering box?

 

[Wowfactor]

Love that dark forest green. Good job. Now back to the engine picture in previous post, see that little glass fuel filter. replace that with a metal one in front of the pump. A metal fuel line from pump to as close to carb as you can get. The less rubber gas hose the better. Ideally all metal, but you'd have to bend a flair that yourself. I suspect that Edlebrock carb under the air cleaner

Thanks for the tip, I’ll definitely look into do that. Im wanting to tear into the engine bay and possibly redo all the wiring with a painless kit because it’s a mess in a few spots. So I will definitely look into doing that while im in there.

 

[Wowfactor]

Not a bad job! I've got all the PVC pipe in the garage getting ready to make my PVC paint booth out front, praying to god a freak storm doesn't blow in when I've got it up. I love painting vehicles but this is going to be the first one I'll have tried flow coating, I'm no pro but I'm a step above a hack at this point. Once the paint has completely dried, sand with 800 to 1200 grit, clean/wipe down and spray another couple coats of clear. If you search "pharraway" on youtube he does great videos of all that stuff. Really struggling with what to do about the top, mine came painted body color and that's what I'm planning on at the moment, but also contemplating white. Get you some soundproofing for the floor before you put the carpet back down. As for the steering, have you tried turning the magic screw on the steering box?

Thanks for the advice this was my first go with painting and it turned out alright but I’ve done some wet sanding in my free time and some buffing. It turned out a lot better but I think I’ll ended up having to do another two coats of the single stage when I get free time in month or so.

I’ve looked into putting clear over it but found some conflicting information on if it improves the look in the end. I appreciate the suggestion I think I’m leaning towards doing it when I get to that point. It was pretty disheartening when that storm came it because it was looking great, definitely through a wrench into things. I’ll look up that guy and do some more research, thanks again. Good luck with yours I’ll check it out when you get it done.

 

[anwat]

Looks great so far. Since it seems you have the appearance stuff licked, I'll offer up some advice on the steering. Get rid of your rag joint, make sure the frame isn't cracked around the steering box and if not, reinforce it with one of the many kits out there. That and the box are usually where the slop comes from. If what you've done took a week, I think you are missing your calling...that's a good amount of work you put in!

 

[Wowfactor]

Been really busy with school but got the steering squared away for now and have been cleaning up the interior some more. Have it all stripped and have rebuilt most of the gauge cluster including new bulbs, painting the backing chrome and cleaning up all of the connections. I got all of the windows installed with new regulators, motors and switches, also cleaned up and soldered everything in, instead of the wing nuts that were used prior.

Debating removing the wiring harness for the cab so I can check all of the wires and do repairs, but almost everything is working currently and ive never messed with something like that before. Is its pretty straight forward removing the fuse block portion of the wiring in the cab? I can't seem to find a video of the process.

But the main problems are the oil pressure and coolant temp gauges haven't worked since I got it, and the passenger blinker stay lit up when the headlights are on but all of the blinkers function normally without headlights.

I have replaced the headlight switch that also dims the dash lights but that didn't fix the stalled blinker problem. When I turn on the passenger blinker now the all of the lights on the dash illuminate when before I replaced the switch it that was not the case. I believe I replaced all of the bulbs when I got the truck but will double check them and replace if needed. Is there anything I should look into or specific ground locations I should try to clean? Electrical work drives me nuts but I want to just do it all right this go around so I don't have to mess with it again for awhile hopefully.

The oil pressure and temp gauges are both pegged out when turned on so I'm going to start with replacing both of the senders to see if that could be the problem. Is there any other common causes for this?

My goal is to get this in daily driver condition, mechanically it is 90 percent there just needs functioning gauges and to get the interior put back together. I plan on painting all of the trim saddle tan or a similar color but haven't decided on the brand of paint ill use yet. I will also raptor liner the floor pans and wheel wells when I can get around to doing that. I have an insulation kit currently but don't know if ill drop the money on a carpet kit while in dental school to use it. So I think the raptor will be a better/cheaper option to clean up the interior and will provide protection when I do put the carpet in. Thanks for all of the help and advice previously.

 

[Blue85]

Gauges pegged all the way sounds like the sender is disconnected.

 

[dyeager535]

Gauges pegged all the way sounds like the sender is disconnected.

Yep. It would be money wasted IMO if both gauges are doing the same thing. Figure out your ground issue before doing anything else.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

I would be very cautious with the bed liner, if there is any existing rust or pin holes in the floor it will rust out under the liner and you won't be able to see it.

 

[Wowfactor]

Gauges pegged all the way sounds like the sender is disconnected.

I checked and both the temp and pressure senders are connected. Is there a way to check if the senders are functioning?
The temp is just a single wire plugged in and I cleaned up the connection but that didn’t change anything and the oil pressure sender is plugged in but such a pain to get too I haven’t dug into it. The wires appear to be in good condition and not damaged. Appreciate the response I’ll do some more research to see if I’m missing something.

 

[Wowfactor]

I would be very cautious with the bed liner, if there is any existing rust or pin holes in the floor it will rust out under the liner and you won't be able to see it.

I recently cleaned up all of the floor rust and patched in a few areas. As long as I paint and prime before lining and recheck for any rust beforehand is it worth it? I’ve seen great reviews about it and previously raptor lined the interior of my first Blazer and it held up with no bubbling for a few years before I sold it but haven’t seen it long term. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Wowfactor]

Yep. It would be money wasted IMO if both gauges are doing the same thing. Figure out your ground issue before doing anything else.

Outside of the grounds to the radiator support is there areas I should check specifically? Ive seen one that goes from the support to frame but haven’t found many good images for all of the ground locations. I’m in dental school so haven’t had the time to dig into it enough but plan too now that it’s cooled off some in Texas.

 

[dyeager535]

Outside of the grounds to the radiator support is there areas I should check specifically? Ive seen one that goes from the support to frame but haven’t found many good images for all of the ground locations. I’m in dental school so haven’t had the time to dig into it enough but plan too now that it’s cooled off some in Texas.

There are grounds everywhere. Underdash (bus bar driers side, behind the dash above the kick panel), back of engine to firewall, battery to probably both frame and core support, each headlight, each taillight, fuel tank to frame, any EFI stuff is likely grounded to the engine, and probably a couple more I'm forgetting.

I don't know as our gauges have pins, but procedure should be the same: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...179-water-temp-gauge-test.html#post1556373364

Senders and gauges are quite robust. The grounds in the truck, and the flex circuit/IP connecter on the back of the gauge cluster, are not.

Senders can be tested with an ohmmeter as long as the ambient/sender temperature is known. But you have to know the expected resistance values of the sender at that temperature. That info is out there, but too much work for an unlikely problem IMO. Both gauges acting the same way doesn't lead me to believe it's two senders coincidentally failing at the same time.

Likelihood of problems, in order IMO are ground(s), IP connector/Flex circuit, wiring, senders, gauges.

Could be wrong, but with the other lighting issues, ground problems are at the top of the list.