I’ve been reading a lot of posts lately and it sounds like all of you are way more knowledgeable than me when it comes to the K5 Blazer basics, so your patience is appreciated. I’ve had this Blazer for years now and really haven’t done anything with it except keep it running and drive down to the store and back. My kids drink all the milk, so I use it to drive down to the grocery store that’s open late to get milk when I find the carton empty. I jokingly call it the milk truck. Anyway, my question is pertaining to the stock front steering. It is still at stock height and stock tires and I have no intentions of making this a rock crawler or even a mud buggy, so I was wondering if there was a benefit to doing the crossover steering upgrade or any other upgrades to help with the steering slop or should I just replace everything with stock items. I’m pretty sure that ball joints, tie rod ends, stabilizer bushings, leaf spring bushings are all shot. I’d like to get it to the point where it handles as good as it can, and before I spend the money to just go back stock should I do some upgrades. Keep in mind that I’m not really interested in lifting or changing rear or front axles. Basically just wondering if there is something that I can do to enhance the stock setup, since it’s all wore out and will need to be changed anyway. Thanks for your input.
CK5
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1985 K5 Blazer steering question
- Thread starter Bob39666
- Start date
Cross over wouldn't benefit you. It would be an expensive upgrade for no noticeable improvement. Unless you upgrade to a custom sway bar the oem sway bar must be removed.
Fix what you got, do the https://ck5.com/forums/threads/xj-steering-shaft.345415/ XJ steering shaft update.
Use quality front end parts the best you can afford. Keep her greased and enjoy.
Fix what you got, do the https://ck5.com/forums/threads/xj-steering-shaft.345415/ XJ steering shaft update.
Use quality front end parts the best you can afford. Keep her greased and enjoy.
Wes Harden - Thanks for the reply. When you say the OEM sway bar must be removed, I assume you mean if crossover steering is installed - correct?
That is what he meant.
On a stock truck just pounding pavement crossover is overkill. A 30+ year old truck most likely has worn parts that will add to the sloppy feel to the steering.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the ball joints have play, steering box had play as well as the tie rod ends and drag link ends. Keep in mind the frame in the area of the steering box mounts are prone to cracking and will add to the loose feel.
Other items that add to loose/vague road feel would be worn out leaf spring bushings and upper shackle mount bushings. The previously mentioned steering shaft with the rag joint is a commonly overlooked worn out part.
I’d take some time to fully shake down the front end. Don’t be surprised when you find stuff in need of attention.
I will say this to put it in perspective though. It’s not a new truck. Even with all new parts it’s not like a modern truck. Solid axle, leaf spring trucks just don’t lend themselves to super precise steering and handling.
It’s highly probable that if you did go to crossover all the parts you would be installing to do the swap needed to be done anyway because of wear. So did the crossover provide better feel or was it the new 2wd steering box, new drag link ends or ball joints on the passenger side when you pulled the knuckle off to put the flat top knuckle on?
I wouldn’t be surprised if the ball joints have play, steering box had play as well as the tie rod ends and drag link ends. Keep in mind the frame in the area of the steering box mounts are prone to cracking and will add to the loose feel.
Other items that add to loose/vague road feel would be worn out leaf spring bushings and upper shackle mount bushings. The previously mentioned steering shaft with the rag joint is a commonly overlooked worn out part.
I’d take some time to fully shake down the front end. Don’t be surprised when you find stuff in need of attention.
I will say this to put it in perspective though. It’s not a new truck. Even with all new parts it’s not like a modern truck. Solid axle, leaf spring trucks just don’t lend themselves to super precise steering and handling.
It’s highly probable that if you did go to crossover all the parts you would be installing to do the swap needed to be done anyway because of wear. So did the crossover provide better feel or was it the new 2wd steering box, new drag link ends or ball joints on the passenger side when you pulled the knuckle off to put the flat top knuckle on?
I just went through this with my 85 Blazer in the past 2 months, I am doing a restoration on it last year was the drive train, engine, transmission, transfer case, and axles. this year was the suspension, steering, brakes, etc..
I had everything replaced, rotors, drums, pads, shoes, bearings, u-joints, shocks, springs. ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, sway bar bushings, actually all body bushings, steering gear box, rag joint, etc. and it is a thousand times better. Now it does not drive like my 2016 GMC 2500 HD 4X4 but it drives sound and solid a thousands time better than it did ... was is worth spending the money ... yes because of the planned restoration. However some of the work I did my self, some at the shop. I have new tires as well.
Next is HVAC and Cruise Control then Paint and Body then interior ...
Feel free to reach out ... I have working on mine for the past couple of years ...
I did purchase mine new in 1985 so I am the only owner of this baby.
I had everything replaced, rotors, drums, pads, shoes, bearings, u-joints, shocks, springs. ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, sway bar bushings, actually all body bushings, steering gear box, rag joint, etc. and it is a thousand times better. Now it does not drive like my 2016 GMC 2500 HD 4X4 but it drives sound and solid a thousands time better than it did ... was is worth spending the money ... yes because of the planned restoration. However some of the work I did my self, some at the shop. I have new tires as well.
Next is HVAC and Cruise Control then Paint and Body then interior ...
Feel free to reach out ... I have working on mine for the past couple of years ...
I did purchase mine new in 1985 so I am the only owner of this baby.
The line about the best quality parts you can afford is the key to everything written so far in my opinion.
I replaced all of the wear items in the suspension and steering of my first M1009 with O’Reilly’s parts.
A few years later when my son built his M1009 we used only NAPA or MOOG parts. His drove and rode better.
Then a few years later when I built my M1007 3/4 ton Suburban I used only ORD or MOOG supplied parts and extra stuff like the frame brace. It drove better than both M1009’s. Then I got rid of the rag joint with the XJ joint shaft and put it in a class by itself. My wife and I did a 3,000 mile trip in it a few months ago and I didn’t want to stop driving when we got home.
Don’t forget about the U-Joints in the steering knuckles either. Sometimes they start to bind making it feel like there is a steering problem when it really isn’t.
You don’t have to do it all at one time either. However, U-joints and ball joints are the hardest to get to and everything has to be removed to get to them. Plus, pickle forks and ball joint presses along with the little special socket/thingy to adjust the ball joint tension. Makes doing them first and everything else at the same time with the steering an actual time and effort saver.
Suspension bushings can be done one at a time as you get the motivation and money very easily.
I replaced all of the wear items in the suspension and steering of my first M1009 with O’Reilly’s parts.
A few years later when my son built his M1009 we used only NAPA or MOOG parts. His drove and rode better.
Then a few years later when I built my M1007 3/4 ton Suburban I used only ORD or MOOG supplied parts and extra stuff like the frame brace. It drove better than both M1009’s. Then I got rid of the rag joint with the XJ joint shaft and put it in a class by itself. My wife and I did a 3,000 mile trip in it a few months ago and I didn’t want to stop driving when we got home.
Don’t forget about the U-Joints in the steering knuckles either. Sometimes they start to bind making it feel like there is a steering problem when it really isn’t.
You don’t have to do it all at one time either. However, U-joints and ball joints are the hardest to get to and everything has to be removed to get to them. Plus, pickle forks and ball joint presses along with the little special socket/thingy to adjust the ball joint tension. Makes doing them first and everything else at the same time with the steering an actual time and effort saver.
Suspension bushings can be done one at a time as you get the motivation and money very easily.
I’m always impressed with the comments on this site. Thanks for everyone’s input. It sounds like I just need to start replacing parts starting with ball joints and knuckle u-joints and go from there. The concern I have with whether the ball joints need to be changed is that I don’t see any slop in the joints when moving steering side to side or when I Jack it up and move the tire back and forth and side to side. If the ball joints need changing would it be obvious or are these simple checks sufficient. In other words if I brought it to my local mechanic to have him check it, is he going to do anything different than what I’ve already done. It was mentioned that the ball joint tension could be adjusted. Im not familiar with that. Is that something that is adjusted overtime as the ball joints wear out? Another question is whether leaf springs ever need to be replaced? As far as I can tell the stock stance is correct so I don’t think there is anything major wrong with them, but I was wondering if they were considered to be a “wearable” part similar to how a shock is viewed. I understand that the bushings need to be changed, but is there any reason to change leaf springs unless one is obviously damaged? Thanks again for everyone’s input.
Checking balljoint tolerance is kind of a black art. Yes, there are published numbers for how much it can move when you push on it a certain way with a pry bar. The adjustment sleeve is set by measuring pressure needed to turn the knuckle with a fish scale. If your ball joints have so much slop that the knuckle moves excessively, then you need new ball joints.
Leaf spring replacement when you don't want to do a lift also could be called a black art. How much will 6 new bushings (Front rear shackle mount frame bushing for the extra 2) cost compared to new 2 inch lift arched springs with bushings already in them? Then, how much smoother of a ride will that 2 inch lift give you over the 30 plus year old reverse arch springs? Then add in your time of doing the bushing replacement compared to swapping springs and if you add up your hours involved as money spent it might be cheaper to do the smallest lift you can. Of course, then the rear has to be lifted to equal it all out. Which cost more time and money too. I suggest an ORD 2.5 inch shackle flip for the rear if doing a 2 inch front spring lift.
Leaf spring replacement when you don't want to do a lift also could be called a black art. How much will 6 new bushings (Front rear shackle mount frame bushing for the extra 2) cost compared to new 2 inch lift arched springs with bushings already in them? Then, how much smoother of a ride will that 2 inch lift give you over the 30 plus year old reverse arch springs? Then add in your time of doing the bushing replacement compared to swapping springs and if you add up your hours involved as money spent it might be cheaper to do the smallest lift you can. Of course, then the rear has to be lifted to equal it all out. Which cost more time and money too. I suggest an ORD 2.5 inch shackle flip for the rear if doing a 2 inch front spring lift.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Wheel bearings can be checked by shaking the tire from the 3/9 o’clock position, but trying the same thing to check the ball joints won’t work (12/6 o’clock position) because of the weight of the tire and ball joints that can stick. Best way I found to check ball joints is to jack the wheel up and put a pry bar under it with a piece of plywood between the pry bar and tire to protect it. Then have a helper press down on it or use your foot while looking at the ball joint for movement.
The adjustment sleeve in the upper ball joint is set when you install it using a special spanner socket that you can either make or buy. You don’t adjust it after installation.
The adjustment sleeve in the upper ball joint is set when you install it using a special spanner socket that you can either make or buy. You don’t adjust it after installation.
Rampage thanks for the tip with the pry bar - good idea. I’ll give that a try.
My K5 used to have 2+ inches of slop in the steering wheel (left to right slack before the wheels moved) even after all installing new ball joints, leaf spring bushings, new wheel bearings, ORD steering brace, etc… I bought an AGR steering box and pump and it was better. After I did the XJ steering shaft upgrade it steers like a dream. As said above, not like a modern, new truck, but tight and responsive and a 1,000 times better than the scary loose steering it had before. Hard to believe how long I drove it with that very dangerous loose steering from the worn out steering box and worn out rag joint (which I couldn’t ever diagnose, but once I scrapped it I knew for sure it was causing lots of slop in the steering). Good luck with your steering repair project.
Thanks iblyles - That sounds exactly like what I’m dealing with. I’ve heard a ton about the rag joint issues, but in looking at it I don’t see any obvious issues. Are the problems with the rag joint just inherent to the design of the setup or would there be some obvious damage to it?
Lay under the truck with it running, in park and the wheels chocked both directions. Have someone turn the steering wheel and watch for what is sloppy.
Something else I did not see mentioned, was looking for frame cracks around the box. Rocking the steering wheel will show the box moving separate of the frame.
Something else I did not see mentioned, was looking for frame cracks around the box. Rocking the steering wheel will show the box moving separate of the frame.
