Looks good. Yeah, an 1/8” too much is too much lol.
CK5
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1986 K5 The over-achieving grocery getter
- Thread starter CriticalAction
- Start date
1986 K5 Chevy Blazer
Brake booster fitting since theres no room to the firewall.
Upper radiator hose splice joint for heat riser connection.
Couldn't find a throttle bracket for Gen 4 truck intakes so I modified a TBSS bracket to fit. Looks like it should work good in the end for throttle and cruise control.
Test fit the compressor bracket. Going to run a later model Sanden with the Current Performance Holley integration harness.
Trying something different with this one. Cut the factory flanges off and welded on some 2.5" V bands. Also did the new artec pinion shovel since the welder was out. Seymour Tan FTW.
Upper radiator hose splice joint for heat riser connection.
Couldn't find a throttle bracket for Gen 4 truck intakes so I modified a TBSS bracket to fit. Looks like it should work good in the end for throttle and cruise control.
Test fit the compressor bracket. Going to run a later model Sanden with the Current Performance Holley integration harness.
Trying something different with this one. Cut the factory flanges off and welded on some 2.5" V bands. Also did the new artec pinion shovel since the welder was out. Seymour Tan FTW.
Well after way too many trips to the builder... Finally have a 4l80e with a 2wd reluctor ring pressed on considering the first time it came back it looked like this... Even after confirming it on the invoice, original build sheet, during the build process, and once again before they shipped it back.
Luckily the builder ate the shipping charge and additional labor to pull everything back a part to fix. Engine/transmission/tcase in final position. ORD LS engine mounts with engine in 3/4" forward position. Clearance with the SMALL BLOCK crossmember and Holley Off road oil pan.
Went real simple with the crossmember: 2x4x0.25 wall box tubing. Fish plated the longer free standing side. Ends capped with 1/4" strap and x4 7/16" bolts holding per side. 205 is clocked up in the very first hole from stock so about 2" up.
Rebuilt the brace rod for the clocked and longer drivetrain position.
Installed the deeper Moroso tranny pan.
Shifters are all finished up. Only had to tweak a few things. They are out for paint. Will get installed pics underneath later.
AC bracket, new earlier style alternator, and Sanden compressor installed.
Factory 2015 2500HD pressure line works well with some changes to the factory bends. Pump is the factory 2019 van application. Only required some slight clearance of the frame rail.
Threw the truss up there to see what it looks like since that's next. Shouldn't be too bad but I'm planning on frenching the traction bar mounts into it so we will have to get a bit fancy.
Luckily the builder ate the shipping charge and additional labor to pull everything back a part to fix. Engine/transmission/tcase in final position. ORD LS engine mounts with engine in 3/4" forward position. Clearance with the SMALL BLOCK crossmember and Holley Off road oil pan.
Went real simple with the crossmember: 2x4x0.25 wall box tubing. Fish plated the longer free standing side. Ends capped with 1/4" strap and x4 7/16" bolts holding per side. 205 is clocked up in the very first hole from stock so about 2" up.
Rebuilt the brace rod for the clocked and longer drivetrain position.
Installed the deeper Moroso tranny pan.
Shifters are all finished up. Only had to tweak a few things. They are out for paint. Will get installed pics underneath later.
AC bracket, new earlier style alternator, and Sanden compressor installed.
Factory 2015 2500HD pressure line works well with some changes to the factory bends. Pump is the factory 2019 van application. Only required some slight clearance of the frame rail.
Threw the truss up there to see what it looks like since that's next. Shouldn't be too bad but I'm planning on frenching the traction bar mounts into it so we will have to get a bit fancy.
Well rear suspension progress is halted. Started taking it apart and found a broken leaf. Thought we would be smart and pull a leaf from a green K20 parts truck we had. Got it apart and the arch is completely different from my k5 springs.
Went back and forth about just buying another set of stock springs. But... spend $ on new or used stock springs I will end up removing in a year or two anyway. Or buy ORD custom springs and build the rear suspension i want anyway...
The MAW bug hit hard and ORD 2.5" lift 52s, tension shackle hanger, 6" super shackles, new U bolts, perches, and limit straps are ordered. Hoping for 12-14" of travel which ORD said should be easily doable. Haven't decided on shocks yet... Somebody talk me out of going straight to King 2.5s and air bumps. Packaging will be tight with big shocks since I'm not cutting the floor. Some 12 or 14" travel Bilsteins would fit anywhere pretty easily.
Went back and forth about just buying another set of stock springs. But... spend $ on new or used stock springs I will end up removing in a year or two anyway. Or buy ORD custom springs and build the rear suspension i want anyway...
The MAW bug hit hard and ORD 2.5" lift 52s, tension shackle hanger, 6" super shackles, new U bolts, perches, and limit straps are ordered. Hoping for 12-14" of travel which ORD said should be easily doable. Haven't decided on shocks yet... Somebody talk me out of going straight to King 2.5s and air bumps. Packaging will be tight with big shocks since I'm not cutting the floor. Some 12 or 14" travel Bilsteins would fit anywhere pretty easily.
You’re gonna need 2.5s and trailing arms for more than two grocery trips a month. Plan accordingly.
Maw…
Ha. I already have your picture saved in my phone for inspiration.
I am wondering if I could fit 2.5 smooth bodies going along the same lines as this. I have seen the kit from Jake Roberts where they tip them forward and go outside the leaves. I didn't care for it as much. I also have my big brake calipers on the front of the axle so I'm more limited their on mounting space. Guaranteed I would hit those shock ends on obstacles if they were in the front.
Was hoping if I mirror Jakes setup backwards I could make it work. I was eye balling and I think I have room to put a 1.5" .25 wall DOM right above the gas tank/frame under the floor from side to side. Tip the shocks back just a little bit and drop the mounts lower and towards the tire as much as possible for protection.
If I need to I could put cage landing pad right above the upper shock mount on the bar to prevent too much cantilever effect in operation...?
Can't do like @AgDieseler since my muffler is on the driver's side inside the frame and my traction bar is on the passenger side.
Mainly want to avoid this due to lower shock mounting clearance by my brake calipers as well as lack of shock protection.
Mainly want to avoid this due to lower shock mounting clearance by my brake calipers as well as lack of shock protection.
Another example from K5factory on IG. Bilsteins mounted in board of the springs, tipped forward.
Another of @Fastereddie pics. If I essentially do this but mount the top further out from the frame for spring/shackle clearance I think it can be done...?
Bench racing is fun but I wouldn't really be able to tell until I get the custom springs, shackles, etc installed for a visual.
Bench racing is fun but I wouldn't really be able to tell until I get the custom springs, shackles, etc installed for a visual.
You have definitly been doing your homework. All sounds like the right thought path. You could for sure move outboard more than mine with a smoothbore. The top of my tire tips in and rubs the inner fenderliner but thats it.
I like that vote of confidence.
About what lift height are you figuring your at? And your bump travel?
I'm on 37s and 2" lift. No plans of going any bigger so hoping that leaves me plenty of clearance to shock bodies and inner fender liner during articulation.
There wont be plenty of clearance with leafs in the way. Its gonna be tight, but I think it can be done. Most go in front because theres more room for sure.
Im not sure what lift height im at off the top of my head. Id guess 4 or less. I have about 4-5” bump travel if I remember right.
Im not sure what lift height im at off the top of my head. Id guess 4 or less. I have about 4-5” bump travel if I remember right.
What was your "hard point" that forced you to set your bump travel at that?
Depending on my new springs going inverted. My quick tape measure free ball is showing my tire touching the upper fender lip in the rear is going to set my upper travel limit...
My upper links hitting the body was the limiting mechanical factor. Tires were a secondary thought.
Ok well I have the truss but no link mounts on top so shouldn't have any issues there.
I have raptor 3.0's on the rear of my truck.
And they have good shaft protection too!
Nice. Need to peruse your thread again to see your setup. Guessing those are takeoffs?
Poly Performance is having a shock sale... Couldn't help myself.
