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1987 k10 brake rotor fitment

8

89k5350

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Posts
432
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Location
springwater ny
so im replacing my front rotors on the stepside and I ordered some drilled slotted non cheapy rotors. so I punched the studs thru the new rotors and hubs put the locking hubs back together with new wheel bearing. when I went put caliper on, the brake pad that goes on the backside of the rotor wont fit between backing plate and rotor. so I took the 4x4 hub back apart and switch the 2 back nuts that tighten wheel bearing. everything seats properly and and tightens up well but the pad still wont fit between rotor and backing plate. not even the old brake pad will fit between the rotor and backing plate. so do you guys think it could be a miss fit rotor? or has anyone had a problem like this before. ive done rotors on these 4x4 hub trucks and never had this problem before :popcorn:
 
yea I did but jus trying to fit the pad behind the rotor alone it wont fit. so I actually just need an order the locking hub componets go in for a ten bolt
 
How'd you do that?! Isn't there a machined lip in there? In order for the hub to seat too deeply on the spindle, it seems the race would have to go past the machined lip/seat. Can't say I've ever seen that.
 
yea so im putting the studs through the NEW hub and used lug nuts and the impact to draw in the studs and some ****ing how the lug nut strips out right at the bottom of the stud and just spins and strips and the bottom of the stud, this is the hardest dam brake job ive ever done. how am I gonna get the dam stud off with the lug nut on it
 
cause you do NOT use lug nuts and impact to install the studs .

you hammer or press them in place from the back side.
 
sweetk30 said:
cause you do NOT use lug nuts and impact to install the studs .

you hammer or press them in place from the back side.
Click to expand...

Yeah. Ive done them with a lug nut before, say on an application where the axle shaft is still in the rear but you have to always make sure you shim it with some washers and dont run out of studs.

But sweet is right. On a front hub theres no reason not to bang them in with a punch and hammer...
 
Cut it off. Stud and all. Punch the old stud back out. If it has wallowed out the knurls in the hub, DO NOT try to put another stud in it. Just leave it empty.

I had one strip on me with the wheel on. No access to get in there and cut it off. It took about 2 hours, every tool in my toolbox, and a 12 pack of beer to get it off.

And while you can pull in studs, I agree that punching them from the back is the more proper method. I used an old 1/2 ratchet extension as a punch.
 
in new york state you cant be with out the correct # of lug nuts and studs the axle / wheel is designed for to pass the state inspection every year.

also on a 1/2 ton I wouldn't do this . the 7/16" studs are smaller than 1/2 ton 2wd @ 1/2" and the 3/4-1ton 9/16" stuff.
 
Laws aside, i went without a lug nut for 6 years. Never an issue, but granted - it would be better to fix it properly.

Point was, you don't want to stab one into a worn hole just to have it spin with a wheel on. Like I said, getting it off brought the suck.
 
Tack it in place, right? As long as the hole isn't oblong or so loose the shoulder isn't doing any locating.
 
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