1987 k5 Blazer starting from factory basic.

[ArchonBrutal]

I have been surfing several forum sites for years and am having a very difficult time finding information to support what I would like my blazer to be. Especially because what I want is seemingly extremely uncommon.
As the title states, it is starting from factory gear.
My goal is Dana 60 and 14 bolt swaps with minimal to no lift if possible. Then swapping for a 5.3 vortec and a 4l80e. The idea is a work truck that can tow or plow as well as handle basic off-road joy rides.
As of right now my focus is getting the right suspension so I can get the axles installed.

I've noticed forums can be quite toxic for the uneducated. I am uneducated. I am simply looking for advice or a link to an existing post that would be helpful to what I am attempting to achieve.

 

[imiceman44]

I have been surfing several forum sites for years and am having a very difficult time finding information to support what I would like my blazer to be. Especially because what I want is seemingly extremely uncommon.
As the title states, it is starting from factory gear.
My goal is Dana 60 and 14 bolt swaps with minimal to no lift if possible. Then swapping for a 5.3 vortec and a 4l80e. The idea is a work truck that can tow or plow as well as handle basic off-road joy rides.
As of right now my focus is getting the right suspension so I can get the axles installed.

I've noticed forums can be quite toxic for the uneducated. I am uneducated. I am simply looking for advice or a link to an existing post that would be helpful to what I am attempting to achieve.

What you want is very simple and reasonable and it's not common so yeah on some forums you will not get good responses.
Here you will find people from mild to wild.
So far we are missing on main ingredient, the tire size.
That will help narrow down your choices on suspension and body modifications.

 

[Blue85]

The axle swap will raise the truck about 1" with no suspension change. I would start by studying what kind of crossmembers guys are using for the LS swap and how much room they have from the (D60) differential to (LS) oilpan and front driveshaft clearance before setting the ride height. That's the only part of your plan that hasn't already been done 100x. If you end up with bumpstops right above the axle, the offroad adventures won't be very enjoyable.

 

[ZooMad75]

The idea isn’t dumb at all, but it isn’t the norm for sure. But you came to the right place.

The 60/14b axle combo is the most bulletproof combo you can put in a K5 depending on your use do you really need them? Light trail riding with lower lift and what I’m guessing would be a smaller tire choice the bigger physical size of the 60 and 14b is a hindrance by dragging on everything. It’s a known thing that even on the same size tire the one tons have less ground clearance than 10 bolt axles or d44/12b.

Again that comes down to your tire choice for sure. But as blue mentioned that larger size on the front axle has a bearing on clearance to the 5.3 too. I ran the 5.3 with a stock crossmember with no clearance issues to my D44 just for an example.

That being said if you plan on keeping the lift low and the tire size at or under 35’s there isn’t a problem to running the 1/2 ton axles for trail riding and towing/plowing duties. Maybe investing in better axle shafts wouldn’t hurt if lockers were in the plans too.

If you already have the tons I totally get the idea to run them, I would too. But if you have to source them then idea of what it will cost to acquire will factor in for the D60 for sure. Or you split the difference and convert the 10b to 8 lug and put a 14b ff in. Honestly that’s pretty much the setup I’ve run with a 5.3 and now the 8.1 for a while now. I broke axle shafts on my d44 with the 5.3 but that was more a combination of the automatic and my tru-trac in the front axle. The 8.1/manual combo has not had a problem on the front end. I’d run a 60 if I got into one cheap enough, but cheap 60’s are unicorns so I run what I have.

I put that out there just to point out you don’t necessarily need to have a 60 depending on the application and other specs. Too often the masses push the narrative that you can’t wheel or drive a 4wd square body without a 60 up front. The half ton axles can work in the right application, tire size and usage. We only got a little detail in the first post to figure out your plans. Max tire size? Lockers/limited slip diffs or open? Trail types you plan on running?

If you jump into the build threads you’ll find the subject of LS engines in Blazers is widely covered in great detail and some are done differently than others. Some are cruisers, others full blown trail rigs. Most are in between but all have great info to pull from to prove what works and what don’t.

 

[nvrenuf]

Don't forget about the transfer case, it's unlikely that what you have now will readily bolt up to the 4L80E (tailshaft length and spline count, bolt pattern, etc). It won't be brain surgery to get a tcase in there, you just need to do some research before spending any money.

Do you know what tcase you will be working with?

As stated, the LS vs axle clearance will be something to watch in addition to the tcase compatibility.

 

[ArchonBrutal]

I am shocked at the responses so far. I really appreciate your inputs.

I do already have the axles and the rims I have with the wheels are 16 inch, currently with 35in Mickey Thompsons. I do not intend to use those tires though, if I can use 33s that would be ideal.
When I was last able to really put time into the project I determined a 2in lift would give me the clearance I need without being higher than I want.
I do not have a transfer case in mind and am very open to suggestions.
As far as of road plans, mud puddles, trail blazing, and snow that is between 1 and 2 feet deep.
I know it's going to be over built for what I will use it for but I will be happy with the fact that it can work harder when I need it to.

 

[imiceman44]

I am shocked at the responses so far. I really appreciate your inputs.

I do already have the axles and the rims I have with the wheels are 16 inch, currently with 35in Mickey Thompsons. I do not intend to use those tires though, if I can use 33s that would be ideal.
When I was last able to really put time into the project I determined a 2in lift would give me the clearance I need without being higher than I want.
I do not have a transfer case in mind and am very open to suggestions.
As far as of road plans, mud puddles, trail blazing, and snow that is between 1 and 2 feet deep.
I know it's going to be over built for what I will use it for but I will be happy with the fact that it can work harder when I need it to.

The 33" tire with d60 will be problem especially in 2 feet of snow.
Not enough clearance and 33" will have trouble floating on top of the snow and not tall enough to cut through to solid ground

 

[ArchonBrutal]

The 33" tire with d60 will be problem especially in 2 feet of snow.
Not enough clearance and 33" will have trouble floating on top of the snow and not tall enough to cut through to solid ground

2ft of snow is extreme case scenario. But, what size would you suggest?

 

[imiceman44]

2ft of snow is extreme case scenario. But, what size would you suggest?

I did ok with 35" on a d44 after I stepped up from 33".
If you use the d60 you lose an inch of clearance and you might need to step up to a 37".
I have a d60 and I haven't put it in any of my vehicles yet because of clearance.
I don't want to go too big and too tall.
I am running 35s on one of my Suburbans and no lift, just cut fenders to clear.
I put 37s on the other and it will get a 2" lift plus some clearance cuts.
Both stock axles.

 

[imiceman44]

2ft of snow is extreme case scenario. But, what size would you suggest?

You can make the truck work ok on 33" tires but you need to deflate them enough to have them float on top of the snow instead of digg, but then you need to air up again when you hit pavement.

 

[ArchonBrutal]

You can make the truck work ok on 33" tires but you need to deflate them enough to have them float on top of the snow instead of digg, but then you need to air up again when you hit pavement.

I have no problem with that. I actually wanted to get a small compressor for it eventually anyway.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

I have been surfing several forum sites for years and am having a very difficult time finding information to support what I would like my blazer to be. Especially because what I want is seemingly extremely uncommon.
As the title states, it is starting from factory gear.
My goal is Dana 60 and 14 bolt swaps with minimal to no lift if possible. Then swapping for a 5.3 vortec and a 4l80e. The idea is a work truck that can tow or plow as well as handle basic off-road joy rides.
As of right now my focus is getting the right suspension so I can get the axles installed.

I've noticed forums can be quite toxic for the uneducated. I am uneducated. I am simply looking for advice or a link to an existing post that would be helpful to what I am attempting to achieve.

did you abandon your idea of building the Blazer and M1008 separately?

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

my 2 cents; and it probably ain't worth that much

put the 5.3 and 4L80 into the Blazer, you have an 87 so you already have fuel injection but the LS requires more fuel pressure. then you will have to use a 241 with the VSS. there may be kits to add VSS to a 241; I don't know about 208. then get an 8 lug Semi Float 14 bolt. change the front to 8 lug. and the 2" lift and 33-35s you are talking about.

build the M1008 with a little more lift and 35-37s to use for the deeper snow and keep your Blazer for milder stuff. the reason I suggested swapping the Blazer to 8 lug is so you would have tires that you could swap between the 2 in a pinch if need be.

 

[ArchonBrutal]

did you abandon your idea of building the Blazer and M1008 separately?

A lot of things have happened in a short time that required sacrifice. The m1008 is gone and all that is left is the axles.