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1988 R10

So the blue truck donated the D60. I wish it would have been in good a shape as it looks, unfortunately it was a real rust bucket.

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I was planning on using the rear 14b as well, but ran into a situation where I couldn't move the spring perches far enough out to the required 42.5" on account on some flanges being in the way.

Is this OEM or did some widen the axle?

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IMG_0167.JPG
 
skunked said:
looks like a C&C 14 bolt axle.
Click to expand...
Ok, but when I couldn't make it work I pulled the 14b off the yellow CC and it didn't have the extra flanges and welds. Not trying to be dense, just trying to understand. Thanks for explaning regardless.

InkedIMG_0167_LI.jpg

InkedIMG_0178_LI.jpg
 
Fun weekend, some more progress on the front end.

Installed PS inner fender and battery tray, had previously fixed rot holes, removed/treated surface rust, primed and painted.

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Calipers, pads and hoses.

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Extended shock tower and shocks, still working on shock mounting hardware not sure I have enough threads there.

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Steering box brace and tie rod.

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What was involved in making the engine crossmember work? Looking good!
 
Big Ray said:
What was involved in making the engine crossmember work? Looking good!
Click to expand...
Thank you!

Relatively straight forward:
Floor jack and wood under the oil pan to support motor weight.
Removed 2wd motor mounts and cross member, all held in by nuts and bolts. I get impatient dealing with the rust so the zip wheel comes out more often than I care admit. I found the engine side motor mount different than 4wd so had to change those too.
Installed 4wd cross member, I seem to remember two holes lining up on either side of the bottom of the frame rails. Then I installed motor mounts. Having the cross member in first helped line those up in order to drill the necessary holes.
Then removed floor jack and enjoyed the view!

Comparing cross members:
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Edit:

I think having the means to drill at a right angle is necessary, so either a drill or attachment. Local mom and pops hardware store had this little guy for an impact and it worked fine, drill bit for a pilot hole then step bit to desired diameter.

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Last edited:
Good week so far. Cleaned up brake drum hardware and backing plate, replaced springs and wheel cylinders.

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Cleaned up bearings replaced seals.

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With front and back brakes mostly done, I treated myself to some motivation.

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Also made a bracket for the clutch fluid reservoir.

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Also added some HP.

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Thanks! Thinking of doing this with my 90 3/4 ton suburban.
joshuak said:
Thank you!

Relatively straight forward:
Floor jack and wood under the oil pan to support motor weight.
Removed 2wd motor mounts and cross member, all held in by nuts and bolts. I get impatient dealing with the rust so the zip wheel comes out more often than I care admit. I found the engine side motor mount different than 4wd so had to change those too.
Installed 4wd cross member, I seem to remember two holes lining up on either side of the bottom of the frame rails. Then I installed motor mounts. Having the cross member in first helped line those up in order to drill the necessary holes.
Then removed floor jack and enjoyed the view!

Comparing cross members:
View attachment 377669
View attachment 377670


Edit:

I think having the means to drill at a right angle is necessary, so either a drill or attachment. Local mom and pops hardware store had this little guy for an impact and it worked fine, drill bit for a pilot hole then step bit to desired diameter.

View attachment 377674
Click to expand...
 
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