1989 6.2l cranks but wont start

[hytech_rednek]

I have a 1989 6.2L diesel (stock Banks turbo). I am having trouble getting it started. I thought I ran it out of fuel, added more fuel. This what I have done so far:
New Glow Plugs (2 months)
New Glow Plug Controller (3-4 months)
New batteries (3months)
Cracked open the injectors and cycled the key until all injectors had fuel coming out of them (still no start, but cranks strong).
Lifted turbo off manifold and used WD-40 while cranking engine (no change).
Engine heater has been plugged in to keep block warm so I am not burning up glow plugs/controller.
Have cranked engine enough to require recharging batteries.

I am thinking that because the WD-40 would not fire the engine it may not be a fuel delivery problem, then again I am a bit green at this.
Any and all ideas will be helpful.
----------------------------
Ok, after doing more research I found out it could be air-locked...went through the proceedure and no fuel is coming out of the air filter when I remove the plastic screw and crank the engine. Possible fuel lift pump? Hopefully not an injector pump! Now I am wondering why fuel came out of the injectors...left over from the injector pump possibly?

Thanks for the input.

Tim


1989 K-5 6.2L Turbo Diesel 4x4
3" suspension lift
33x12.50x15 Pro Comp tires

 

[tRustyK5]

Undo the fuel supply line that goes from the last fuel filter to the injection pump and set a small jar or bowl under that line. Disconnect the pink wire from the IP and crank the engine for 5 seconds or so. You should have fuel in the bowl or jar or whatever you're using. No fuel and you have a fuel delivery problem.

If you have fuel delivery re-attach the supply line to the IP, remove the glow plugs and loosen the injector lines at the injectors. Re-connect the pink wire to the IP. Only crank for 20-30 seconds at a time with a one minute rest for the starter. As you get fuel dripping from a line tighten it up until you have at least 6 lines that were dripping fuel. Obviously 8 is better...

Test your glow plugs. When they're screwed into the block you can use a test light. Attach the alligator clip to the hot side of the battery and touch the probe to the spade of the glow plug. If the light comes on the glow plug is most likely good. If you don't get the light on the glow plug is definitely bad.

If you have fuel, good cranking speed and functioning glow plugs there isn't any reason for it to not start.

I have a 6.2 in my K5 that has over 230,000 miles on it...and it starts without being plugged in when it's as cold as 20F. It's pretty cranky at that temp when not plugged in though.

One other question...what glow plugs do you have and are you using the stock GP controller or a manual button? AC 60G or Autolite 1110's are commonly sold as replacement GP's for the 6.2. They are better in that they don't swell or burn out easily...but they take about twice as long as the old 11G's to heat up. With the factory controller you won't get enough glow time for the truck to start easily. Kennedy Quick Heats are also self limiting, but glow up about as quick as the OEM 11G's your truck came with.

Hope that helps...

Rene

 

[hytech_rednek]

Using Autolite plugs, Controller from Kragen (dont remember which brand)...I know I bought it for $60, was about $100. I have not had a problem starting since I replaced the plugs/controller.

I tried everything you said to try, I think it is a fuel delivery issue. Are there any pumps between the tank and the fuel filter?

 

[tRustyK5]

Yeah, mechanical lift pump on lower passenger side of the engine. Approximately the same place you'd find a mechanical fuel pump on a small block. Cheap to buy, pain in the arse to replace unless the engine is on a stand.

Rene

 

[Klink K5]

I have had it a couple times on my 6.2's that the fuel shut off soilonoid on top of the pump has gone bad. This part is replaceable for under 100.00 for a new one. How was the truck running before your problems? Are you getting a good supply of fuel out of your injector lines? More than a slight dribble.? You should only have to crack one injector line(two tops) to purge the air out of the injection pump also. One way to check your lift pump is crack the bleeder screw on your square fuel filter block and crank it over, you should have fuel comming out of that. If not, the lift(fuel pump) is probally bad. Just some ideas, goodluck

 

[longbedder]

Check the fuel return lines also. These are the little rubber lines going from injector to injector. From the last injector it goes back to the fuel tank. If this gets pinched or otherwise cut off, the engine won't run.