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1989 Gmc Jimmy 350 high speeds spark problem* Please help***problem still exists

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Spribble89

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Hi im new to this forum. I have been coming here for the past year getting information i needed for my truck but now the info i need i cant find lol. ok so my problem is this... My truck runs terrific in town, smooth perfect idle, everything runs great. But on the interstate when i get to around 65 mph or as soon as it shifts into 4th gear it will act as if i suddenly let off the gas pedal and immediately pushed back down on it and in between this sudden absent of gas i hear a loud "tick" sound, and it sounds like a big spark is hitting my firewall. I can feel the hit in my feet also, the vibrations. and when this happens, it wont let me accelerate, the more i try to accelerate the faster and more this occurs. But some days i can go as fast as i want to go, so this doesnt always occur. I recently changed my plug wires, distributor cap and rotor all to Accel brand and i made sure no plug wires are touching the firewall or eachother. Im not sure what kind of problem i am having at all. but i am limited on money right now so i dont wanna replace a lot of parts if i dont have to. Any help is greatly appreciated. I plan to become a lifelong member of this forum, im just getting started though lol. so please help me. thank you so much everyone. oh and when i do my trouble codes, i get codes 15 and 32 which are the engine coolant temperature sensor, and Egr system. i replaced the egr valve and egr vacuum solenoid. but the light is still on and i dont know how to fix that. anyways any help is appreciated thank you so much.
 
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Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and the codes will clear. If the temperature sensor is bad and sending the wrong data, the fuel mixture ratio will be off. If it is far enough outside of parameters, it could cause your symptoms.
 
magik235 said:
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and the codes will clear. If the temperature sensor is bad and sending the wrong data, the fuel mixture ratio will be off. If it is far enough outside of parameters, it could cause your symptoms.
Click to expand...
Yup. TBI depends on the coolant temp sensor on the intake to send the proper fuel ratio. Test it and replace it if defective.
 
Wow thank you guys, first thing tomorrow I will replace the coolant temp sensor. I know about 1 year ago I accidentely broke off part of the sensor where the electrical plug into it so its always had a weak connection. I just never would have guessed it. Hopefully this fixs my problem. But why would I be hearing a loud tick noise when my gas cuts off for that split second? I sure hope this fixs it lol thank you so much.
 
Just to make sure, did you change coil wire or clean the coil secondary post.
How about inspect or change cap and rotor.
 
Yes I changed the cap, rotorbug, all plug wires, and spark plugs. All Accell brand and brand new.
 
Alright guys, i changed my coolant temperature sensor, surprisingly it ran a lot better. But unfortunately, my problem still exists. But i tried something new, when it started making that that loud "tick!" sound, i switched it into neutral and revved up my engine and it wasnt making any sounds and it revved up fine. but when its on overdrive at high speeds around 65 mph it has the problem. and when i hear that tick sound that sounds like a spark hitting my firewall, it sounds like its coming from behind the distributor. idk if this means anything but i did recently get my transmission rebuilt along with my transfer case. i have been having this issue for awhile now and i really want to fix this. any help is appreciated. please!!!
 
63chevyll said:
Just to make sure, did you change coil wire or clean the coil secondary post.
How about inspect or change cap and rotor.
Click to expand...

the only things i know i havent replaced is the coil pack, and the electronic spark control module. i dont know if my symptoms point to these components but please help me! im limited on money and cant afford to keep replacing random parts in hopes of fixing it. a little more in depth of what happens is, on the interstate, usually in 4th gear/overdrive, i will slowly ease off the throttle a little bit and coast down the road at around 65-70mph and then when i start to press down on the throttle to go a little faster my problem starts to occur. my truck jerks as if i suddenly let off the gas and i hear one loud "tick/spark" noise in between jerks. and the more i press down on the throttle while this occurs, the more jerking and tick/spark sounds i hear and feel. i really hope someone can help me with this. thank you so much. any help i will appreciate.
 
Okay, remember the TBI trucks will try to tell you what it is if you check the codes. I think you can reset the computer by disconnecting your battery for 10-20 minutes (is that right?) Then go drive it again and read the codes. Buying random parts is not troubleshooting and you are teaching yourself an expensive lesson if you keep doing that!
 
Perhaps it's not an engine problem? Have you tried driving without O/D?

I'm no transmission expert, but I know there may be an electronic clutch in the torque converter, and if it's having issues, that noise could come from where you are describing.

Is the throttle cable (to the trans) set properly?

If you still have a Check Engine light, what codes are coming out? Like has been said, pulling the battery cable to reset the codes will help, and then see if it pops up again.

Good luck, I know it can be frustrating.
Clay
 
Sounds weird, but try and spray all the ignition with water, like from a squirt bottle. Especially the coil. Just tap water is fine, but if it has an arc it may jump to the water. I have found coils and wires using that trick.
 
Yes I disconnected the battery, the codes were reset and the lighted come back on. It's code 32. Which is "exhaust gas recirculation system" and the probable cause is " vacuum switch sorted to ground on start up or switch not closed after the PCM has commanded EGR for a specified period of time. Or EGR solenoid circuit open for a specified period of time. Sooo I replaced my EGR valve, and my EGR vacuum solenoid, but the light still comes on. So I don't know what else to check for that code.
 
Ok, the fuel and driveability manual says:

Code 32 - EGR
Vacuum switch shorted to ground on start up
OR
Switch not closed after the ECM has commanded EGR for a specific period of time
OR
EGR solenoid circuit open for a specified period of time

It then goes on to say ... (roughly)

1. EGR solenoid should not be energized with ignition turned on but the engine not running.
2. Check for plugged EGR passages

It then says to ...

Check vacuum line to EGR and between EGR and solenoid. If no vacuum, replace/repair lines.

Apply vacuum to EGR and see if it moves. (Tool needed) Replace EGR if not.

It also mentions that it replies on the o2 sensor. You may want to test that. FYI - it does say the EGR only comes into action over 50 mph only.

I hope that helps... :)
 
Jessie James said:
Ok, the fuel and driveability manual says:

Code 32 - EGR
Vacuum switch shorted to ground on start up
OR
Switch not closed after the ECM has commanded EGR for a specific period of time
OR
EGR solenoid circuit open for a specified period of time

It then goes on to say ... (roughly)

1. EGR solenoid should not be energized with ignition turned on but the engine not running.
2. Check for plugged EGR passages

It then says to ...

Check vacuum line to EGR and between EGR and solenoid. If no vacuum, replace/repair lines.

Apply vacuum to EGR and see if it moves. (Tool needed) Replace EGR if not.

It also mentions that it replies on the o2 sensor. You may want to test that. FYI - it does say the EGR only comes into action over 50 mph only.

I hope that helps... :)
Click to expand...


Thank you so much for the information. I went outside and i started my truck, there is a vacuum hose coming from the front of my throttle body going directly to my egr vacuum solenoid, i disconnected it and touched where it hooks up to the throttle body and there is suction coming from the throttle body. and there is another vaccum hose leaving the egr vacuum solenoid and going directly to the egr valve. i disconnected that hose and there isnt any suction or blowing at all. i dont know if this is how it is suppose to be or not but i thought i would include that. i replaced the egr valve less than a year ago but i guess it could be faulty. thank you so much for your help. i hope we can solve this.
 
Did you check the hoses for cracks? Simply twist it around your finger and if you see any cracks replace it.

The secondary hose should only have vacuum over 50 mph, so that test you explained sounds correct. Connect that primary vacuum hose to the secondary line fitting and see if the EGR valve moves. The manual says to use a vacuum tester to do that, and I dunno what it will do if you do it while idling ... so ... that's my warning to you to be careful. :)

However, you should probably remove the EGR and check the passages. I had an old car where they were completely blocked. A little carb cleaner and a screwdriver fixed that.
 
Jessie James said:
Did you check the hoses for cracks? Simply twist it around your finger and if you see any cracks replace it.

The secondary hose should only have vacuum over 50 mph, so that test you explained sounds correct. Connect that primary vacuum hose to the secondary line fitting and see if the EGR valve moves. The manual says to use a vacuum tester to do that, and I dunno what it will do if you do it while idling ... so ... that's my warning to you to be careful. :)

However, you should probably remove the EGR and check the passages. I had an old car where they were completely blocked. A little carb cleaner and a screwdriver fixed that.
Click to expand...

Alright I will give that a try. I talked to another guy and he told me to check my wiring harness that goes behind the distributor, he said to check the resistors in that wire loom. He says the resistors reduce the amount of voltage going into the distributor and I'm probably getting too much voltage at them high speeds. Well I hope we can solve this lol cause its frustrating. Thank you so much for the help and advice, any help is appreciated.
 
Spribble89 said:
there is another vaccum hose leaving the egr vacuum solenoid and going directly to the egr valve. i disconnected that hose and there isnt any suction or blowing at all. i dont know if this is how it is suppose to be or not but i thought i would include that.
Click to expand...
There will not be any vacuum at idle from the vacuum solenoid. Rev the engine a little while you check this line for vacuum.

What brand EGR did you buy?
Did you have to insert spacers from a kit into your EGR?
 
magik235 said:
There will not be any vacuum at idle from the vacuum solenoid. Rev the engine a little while you check this line for vacuum.

What brand EGR did you buy?
Did you have to insert spacers from a kit into your EGR?
Click to expand...

Umm I don't what brand it is, but I got it at oriellys and the top part of it where the vacuum hose hooks up to spins. And no I didn't have or use any kind of spacers.
 
Spribble89 said:
idk if this means anything but i did recently get my transmission rebuilt along with my transfer case. i have been having this issue for awhile now and i really want to fix this. any help is appreciated. please!!!
Click to expand...
Do you have a 700R4 transmission in your vehicle? If yes, did you remember to attach the electrical connections after you installed it?
Do you have headers on your vehicle?
Please provide more vehicle information in general.
 
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