The springs are brand new though, maybe 20 miles on them.
CK5
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1989 GMC Suburban "Trail Boss" conversion
- Thread starter warrpath4x4
- Start date
1989 suburban SLE conversion by Trailwagons
It also had the same problem before the new springs.
What all is new? Earlier you mention only ordering new springs for the driver side.
This pic makes your driver side spring look flatter than the pass side.
The original springs looked flatter on the driver side also. Both springs are new with new bushings, u-bolts are new, degree shims are new, and there is a zero rate on the driver side (I was trying to see if adding the spacer on that side made it ride level).
it is your rear that makes your front look off.
But the rear measures even from side to side which is what's not making sense to me.
The ultimate test is to swap the springs from side to side and see if the lean follows the spring. In process, you can measure arch on the springs and make sure they're the same when they're unloaded.
We recently reinforced the concept of looking at the rear for a front problem. We had our '99 in the shop for a little trip prep and the front was sitting super crooked, like over an inch off side to side. As part of the process we pulled the 2 link traction bars to straighten them out and as soon as we did the front straightened right up. Basically the bend in the 2 link had enough extra load on everything that it was messing with the front.
We recently reinforced the concept of looking at the rear for a front problem. We had our '99 in the shop for a little trip prep and the front was sitting super crooked, like over an inch off side to side. As part of the process we pulled the 2 link traction bars to straighten them out and as soon as we did the front straightened right up. Basically the bend in the 2 link had enough extra load on everything that it was messing with the front.
Thats a good idea swapping left and right, I will have to try that.
Don't skip the step of measuring free arch. For the most part, if the free arch is the same, the springs will be the same when loaded. Then it becomes a question of the load being different if they're sitting funny when installed.
The big thing is swapping them but knowing arch numbers is an important detail too.
The big thing is swapping them but knowing arch numbers is an important detail too.
Having trouble thinking this through.
Can you have level frame/level ground and uneven springs ? Shouldn't a level frame require level ground AND even springs?
I would think either ground is not truly level and corrected by uneven springs, or ground is level/frame is bent and corrected by uneven springs, or... ?
It just seems that frame couldn't be level without Both ground/springs being good, or equally bad. Or possibly if tire size/pressure/ load offset something.
And you have a single d-side zero rate that something is offsetting if your frame is level.
Can you have level frame/level ground and uneven springs ? Shouldn't a level frame require level ground AND even springs?
I would think either ground is not truly level and corrected by uneven springs, or ground is level/frame is bent and corrected by uneven springs, or... ?
It just seems that frame couldn't be level without Both ground/springs being good, or equally bad. Or possibly if tire size/pressure/ load offset something.
And you have a single d-side zero rate that something is offsetting if your frame is level.
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The frame can be straight but if the ground is off the frame twists to compensate a little.
Unless the frame is reinforced, plated or have a full cage.
I am still waiting to see the results of swapping side to side
ya unfortunately i havent had time do to do anything with it. I did however buy a laptop and the pieces to make a test cable to run tuner pro RT. now I just have to figure out how to run tuner pro RT lol
anyone who is smarter at reading diagnostics than me. I finally got a laptop, OBD1 ALDL cable and tunerpro RT and figured out how to get them talking to the suburban. Now i have a data log if anyone would be willing to tell me what they see. I already see the injector duty cycle is out of spec and jumps all over, it has a new pump (and the tank looks clean inside), filter, and ACDelco Pressure regulator.
the data log was after the truck was warmed up, it was idling fine but when putting it in drive and park it started stumbling and actually died and i had to restart it.
the data log was after the truck was warmed up, it was idling fine but when putting it in drive and park it started stumbling and actually died and i had to restart it.
went out today and checked the coolant temp sensor with my multimeter and a IR temp gun against the chart below. at cold 46 degree sensor I had a reading of 6,400. Ran the engine for a while and brought the sensor up to 165 degree and had a reading of 203. seems off just a little when the temp is warmer.
this thing has been a thorn in my side for months, if not year and it all (maybe not "all") came down to this stupid hose
This hose/tube goes from the EGR solenoid to the EGR. I used tunerpro RT and a USB OBD1 cable and it was reading high manifold pressure. I went out tonight and replaced the hose from the throttle body to the PCV valve and capped all the connections between the TB to the MAP sensor, the EGR to the EGR solenoid, and the EGR solenoid to the TB.... and it ran great. So I started putting hoses back in place one at a time, I put all back on and testing and it ran great until I put the one between the EGR and the EGR solenoid. Pulled it back off and capped them again and it runs great. Both EGR and solenoid are new, the problem existed with both of the old parts and I cannot see any issue with the hose/tube but i cant argue that thats not where the problem is lol.
So then I pulled the running boards/fender flares
This hose/tube goes from the EGR solenoid to the EGR. I used tunerpro RT and a USB OBD1 cable and it was reading high manifold pressure. I went out tonight and replaced the hose from the throttle body to the PCV valve and capped all the connections between the TB to the MAP sensor, the EGR to the EGR solenoid, and the EGR solenoid to the TB.... and it ran great. So I started putting hoses back in place one at a time, I put all back on and testing and it ran great until I put the one between the EGR and the EGR solenoid. Pulled it back off and capped them again and it runs great. Both EGR and solenoid are new, the problem existed with both of the old parts and I cannot see any issue with the hose/tube but i cant argue that thats not where the problem is lol.
So then I pulled the running boards/fender flares
What type of hoses did you use to replace them. I need to do mine and they all are factory plastic with rubber 90 degree or so ends. Is there a quality replacement set of similar hoses?
I have not replaced this one yet, the rest i just put the stock ones back in place until the issue popped up again. I know one of them (cant remember which one) has two different sized ends
Dip those hoes in flex seal
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