Joe In Montana
1/2 ton status
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2016
- Posts
- 283
- Reaction score
- 109
Vehicle:
Symptoms:
Done So Far:
Where I am right now:
- 1989 Isuzu Amigo, 2.6L FI, manual trans, AC, PS, 2WD
Symptoms:
- Starts cold and runs great until..... until the ECM takes over and goes into Closed Loop.
- Then it starts missing, farting around, no matter where the throttle is or the road speed or the engine RPM.
- There are times it runs perfectly - in a small band of the right RPM - load, gear ratio (manual 5-speed).
- The 'correct band' where it operates best is anywhere it feels like it wants to be.
- Cold idle vac. control is now acting a little strange at decel coming to a stop, as it used to hold 1300 RPM until full stop then drop to 900 RPM.
- Now the Hold-Till-Stopped RPM is 2000, then 900 as usual.
- Altitude has no change in performance - I just went to Big Hole and back to 3000 feet (home) @ 200 miles round trip today and the problem is always there - mostly.
- 70MPH is a good speed with a minimum of missing and bucking - up hill or down, with or against the wind.
- 55 MPH works pretty good - not a TPS or road speed problem - I think.
- RPM seems to make no difference.
- Engine load MIGHT be somewhat affecting the problem. Or not.
- I CAN bring the symptoms on and if I 'play' with the throttle, I can almost make it go away too.
- If I turn the heater ON - it seems to get a little better.
- There are NO engine/ECM codes and no CEL.
Done So Far:
- Tested KVs on all wire near plugs = 3.5-4.6 KV, Idle. Coil wire = 4.8 KV/Idle
- Snap throttle - plugs = 6.6 KV (no running load test done)
- R&R plugs - no dis-colorization, all look good - NGK Dual Plats with 18K miles.
- Opened distributor - clean, new cap and rotor.
- I disconnected the Oxygen Sensor - no difference.
- Fuel pressure test - within normal limits. Removed vac line to FPR to test - no difference.
- Timing is 6BTDC - which is correct for this engine as the outer balancer ring moves.
- Fuel has always been 87 R+M/2 Octane.
- Ohm meter test on TPS is smooth, no bad spots.
- CTS is operating as normal for all engine temps.
- Engine oil is up to the mark
- Coolant level is full, thermostat is working at 180F.
- Vacuum leaks at high engine RPM won't make much difference if there were any - but at idle there are NO leaks anyway.
- Muffler and cat are free flowing.
- Air filter is clean-ish.
- EGR works correctly
- Valve adjustment was OK - no broken valve springs either.
- Cleaned MAFS - no difference
- Exhaust manifold has a leak that in the past - never caused any trouble - and I have a new manifold to install - I doubt that an exhaust leak after the Ox Sensor is problematic.
- This engine eats exhaust manifolds every three years or so. I have extras.
- There is no Post Cat Sensor - this is an antique Pre- OBD2 system! (remember blinking lights?)
- Engine seems to have good power when it's running right.
- Like I say: cold it is perfect - once it goes into Closed Loop, all hell breaks out.
- Fuel mileage is still 22+
- There is NO backfiring.
- There is NO belching in the intake system either.
- It never 'seems to want to die' - just run badly.
- It starts very easily - every time.
- It will idle for days, waiting to go - if I want it to.
- Cooling fan cycles at 220F - ON / 180F - OFF, (my own installation of a 1960 Opel electric fan and a Honda CVCC temp sending unit).
- There is no mechanical fan on the water pump any more.
- I don't fear that it can't bring me home when I take it trout fishing. I hope.
Where I am right now:
- Like I say: 'It's vague"
- Anyone got any ideas?
- Lost.