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1990 blazer fuel pump repeat

Jenk00

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So I need to replace the fuel pump on the ole 90 k5 and I read this thread http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273847 but I can't seem to get the filler panel off between bumper and body. Any suggestions? I can't take bumper off Reese hitch in the way. Can't take Reese hitch off bumper in way. If I could get that filler panel off I could get to it. Btw not gonna cut bed!!!! Thanks
 
So I need to replace the fuel pump on the ole 90 k5 and I read this thread http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273847 but I can't seem to get the filler panel off between bumper and body. Any suggestions? I can't take bumper off Reese hitch in the way. Can't take Reese hitch off bumper in way. If I could get that filler panel off I could get to it. Btw not gonna cut bed!!!! Thanks

You have to remove the Chrome part of the bumper to remove the panel.:D
 
Been a long time since I pulled that part out, but I got it out without removing the bumper. Twisting, turning and bending will get it out but I can not guarantee it'll go back in. Mine didn't. :haha:

On a similar note, the hitch was installed at some point. It has to come off somehow. Either the bumper comes off first, then the hitch or the other way around. But it CAN be done. My hitch came off without removing the chrome bumper.
 
Why is the hitch in the way to getting the bumper off? I took the hitch off my '87 last night: bumper, filler, then hitch.

Bumper was a pain, but swivel, 12" extension, and 12 point 3/4" socket were my friends. Those and a 24 inch breaker bar. Socket/swivel/extension will fit either between the frame, tank and hitch, or for the lower, inner bumper bolt, from the gap below the frame extension that the bumper is bolted to.
 
Unless I missed something you dont need to remove the filler panel between the bumper and the tail gate to get the tank out. Just drop the tail gate and right there is the skid plate and tank strap bolts.
 
I'm not looking at the truck right now, but I know you are correct.

But I *think* if you remove the filler panel you can get a straight shot at the nuts to remove the skidplate/tank straps, which is handy if you are using power tools to buzz them off.
 
I'm confused.
I just did mine 8 months ago and all I did was take off the skid plate (3 bolts between tailgate and body then bolts underneath), undo the front strap bolts, loosen the 2 rears, again via the space between the tailgate, pull filler hose off and down it came. Took an hour or so.
Changed the pump and back up it went. Never touched the bumper, filler or the hitch. It's an '89 with the 31 gallon tank too but that shouldn't make a difference.
 
I have to look under my truck, but thought that the front of my straps are "S" hooks that lock into the crossmember. The rear of the straps are the studs that have to be loosened to drop my tank. Once the nuts are removed, the straps will pivot downward off the front S hooks, allowing the tank to drop.

Studs front/rear on the straps would make dropping the tank easier I imagine, since you could completely remove the straps, and drop the tank straight down once the fuel lines and wiring is disconnected.

And again without looking at it, with the hitch (Reese I believe), filler and bumper in place, I don't believe there is any way I could get at the tank strap nuts. I'd have to put the filler on there, but is there enough of a gap that with the tailgate down (I assume) you can get a socket between the filler panel and body to the tank strap nuts?
 
I'm confused.
I just did mine 8 months ago and all I did was take off the skid plate (3 bolts between tailgate and body then bolts underneath), undo the front strap bolts, loosen the 2 rears, again via the space between the tailgate, pull filler hose off and down it came. Took an hour or so.
Changed the pump and back up it went. Never touched the bumper, filler or the hitch. It's an '89 with the 31 gallon tank too but that shouldn't make a difference.
Just lowered my tailgate and you are 1000 times correct.:bow:
easy access to the two rear straps with valance in place..
 
I have to look under my truck, but thought that the front of my straps are "S" hooks that lock into the crossmember. The rear of the straps are the studs that have to be loosened to drop my tank. Once the nuts are removed, the straps will pivot downward off the front S hooks, allowing the tank to drop.

Studs front/rear on the straps would make dropping the tank easier I imagine, since you could completely remove the straps, and drop the tank straight down once the fuel lines and wiring is disconnected.

And again without looking at it, with the hitch (Reese I believe), filler and bumper in place, I don't believe there is any way I could get at the tank strap nuts. I'd have to put the filler on there, but is there enough of a gap that with the tailgate down (I assume) you can get a socket between the filler panel and body to the tank strap nuts?
Ah yes, I remember now the S hook thing. Got two tank jobs mixed up.
Anyway, here is a picture to clear this up.
Red arrows = skid plate (3rd bolt didn't make the picture)
Tan arrows = tank strap
IMG_20120803_110202.jpg
 
:thumb:

Going to have to take a peek at mine...I thought the filler plate filled that gap up more, but it must just appear that way when the tailgate is up!
 
I had to go look after you said the gap seemed tighter. One of those things you never notice.
Bolts just hanging out with easy access. You'd never get the bolts out if it was under the gate or inside the bumper.
IMG_20120803_121106.jpg

Maybe his bolts are rusted on hence the bumper & filler removal? :dunno:
 
If that filler panel came out with the bumper in place, these conversations would never take place. :) Thanks for the heads up on the tailgate opening though, the truck I normally drive doesn't have the filler, so it's been a long time since I've had to deal with the filler. I just happened to need to get the hitch off the '87, now I'm thinking I may not have needed to remove the bumper to get the back two hitch bolts loose. Oh well, it was bent anyway.
 

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