I am swapping out tanks in my 90 k5. I have a new tank and fuel pump for it. Everything is rusted. Are there any techniques to easily remove this safely? Also, are there any straps underneath the skid plate? I want to have everything I need when I go to do it.
CK5
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1990 Blazer fuel tank swap
- Thread starter 350K5TBI
- Start date
once you unbolt the skid and drop that out of the way you'll see two straps that hold the tank. You'll need to drop the tank down a little then you can access the fuel lines and wiring on top of the tank.
The worst part is getting the two rubber hoses to break loose. If they have been on there since day 1 then they will be stiffer than some that are newer. Watch out for the knuckle busters when trying to pry them off. Once you have them disconnected, half the battle is won. It's even easier if you have the opening cut out above the tank to access the fuel pump, but that's another project.
The less gas in the tank the better.
And as always.....................SAFETY IS #1.
The less gas in the tank the better.
And as always.....................SAFETY IS #1.
rampage
3/4 ton status
If the fuel tank isn't empty and the pump still works l, then drain the gas from the tank using the pump. Disconnect the fuel line at the filter and feed that into a container. Use the fuel pump relay and the jumper on there to keep the pump running until the tank is drained.
Be prepared to replace the sender if there is that much rust. Might be ok, might not. You might be tempted, but IMO don't cut the big fill hose, they can be stupid pricey to replace, and hard to find sometimes. Makes a difference if you need the thing running right away, and can't get a part locally, or have to pay $40 for a $5 part. But I think most of us have had to deal with the fill/fill vent hoses...they can be VERY difficult to get off in one piece, but I've not had to cut one.
If single exhaust (Yay!) when you unbolt the tank you should be able to prop yourself up under the passenger side in front of the axle, looking rearward. If you support the tank with a floor jack, you can lower it a bit, giving yourself more room to work on the lines/hose. I find access that way pretty darn easy.
You can also unbolt the front of the skidplate first, and once unbolted up front, bend the whole skid downward a bit, which bends it at the rear. That will allow it to drop straight down once you undo the bolts on the back side of the skid. As I recall it's kind of a struggle to get it out on the back side, but I've got a hitch there too, which may interfere a bit.
If single exhaust (Yay!) when you unbolt the tank you should be able to prop yourself up under the passenger side in front of the axle, looking rearward. If you support the tank with a floor jack, you can lower it a bit, giving yourself more room to work on the lines/hose. I find access that way pretty darn easy.
You can also unbolt the front of the skidplate first, and once unbolted up front, bend the whole skid downward a bit, which bends it at the rear. That will allow it to drop straight down once you undo the bolts on the back side of the skid. As I recall it's kind of a struggle to get it out on the back side, but I've got a hitch there too, which may interfere a bit.
You don't say if you have new straps. If you don't i would replace those too.
I'm running 33's and no lift, even at 6' I can sit pretty comfortably where I suggested. A bit of a reach, but the same access is impossible from the back due to the bumper and frame crossmember.
I like to gloat about single exhaust, this is one reason to keep factory single exhaust routing. When I had dual exhaust, it was much more difficult to access the tank.
I like to gloat about single exhaust, this is one reason to keep factory single exhaust routing. When I had dual exhaust, it was much more difficult to access the tank.
I agree about the gas filler neck hose--insanely expensive and often an OEM "formed" one with the proper curves is no longer available..straight sections of Gates filler hose were selling for 10+ bucks a foot back in the 90's last time I sold any..it doesn't like to bend without kinking or collapsing...
If it is impossible to get the original one off the filler neck or tank without having to cut it--I have cut it at the midway point and spliced it back together with a piece of galvanized pipe,copper,or a muffler adapter and two hose clamps...without having to disturb it at the tank or filler neck..
If it is impossible to get the original one off the filler neck or tank without having to cut it--I have cut it at the midway point and spliced it back together with a piece of galvanized pipe,copper,or a muffler adapter and two hose clamps...without having to disturb it at the tank or filler neck..
You can access the the two rear bolts on the tank straps on a Blazer by opening and lowing tailgate. no need to remove bumper or valance.
Electric?
Grab your cordless drill, flat blade screwdriver, climb over the rear seat, remove the access panel on the tailgate, unscrew the drive cable from the motor, chuck the drive cable end up in the drill, and lower.
runamok151
1 ton status
Don't smoke while you swap out the tank. Seems like a no-brainer but one of the mechanics that worked at my friend's shop did it and almost blew up the garage. He was fired on the spot.
Don't use a wet/dry shop vac to clean up any spilled gas either..
Yeah,that happened at a guy's gas station I know..he pulled a gas tank out with a truck on his lift that was nearly full,and at least a gallon spilled during the removal...he told his teen aged shop hand to "mop up the spill" and went to answer his phone in the office--and he heard the vacuum cleaner turn on and yelled "NOOOOO!"..too late,the overhead doors blew out into the parking lot into a snowbank,and they were lucky they were able to put out the fires in the shop with a fire extinguisher and garden hose..luckily the truck did not catch on fire too..
One wall of the shop moved about 2" off the foundation!...it was a miracle no one was injured--the kid had some cuts & bruises,and was deaf for about a week,but had no permanent injuries..
One of my friends who runs a auto repair shop smokes like a chimney,I always cringe when I see him working under a hood near a battery,or under a vehicle removing a gas tank...always has a cigarette hanging out of his mouth...someday his luck may run out..
Yeah,that happened at a guy's gas station I know..he pulled a gas tank out with a truck on his lift that was nearly full,and at least a gallon spilled during the removal...he told his teen aged shop hand to "mop up the spill" and went to answer his phone in the office--and he heard the vacuum cleaner turn on and yelled "NOOOOO!"..too late,the overhead doors blew out into the parking lot into a snowbank,and they were lucky they were able to put out the fires in the shop with a fire extinguisher and garden hose..luckily the truck did not catch on fire too..
One wall of the shop moved about 2" off the foundation!...it was a miracle no one was injured--the kid had some cuts & bruises,and was deaf for about a week,but had no permanent injuries..
One of my friends who runs a auto repair shop smokes like a chimney,I always cringe when I see him working under a hood near a battery,or under a vehicle removing a gas tank...always has a cigarette hanging out of his mouth...someday his luck may run out..
OK I got this one done the other day. I had to chisel out the skid plate bolts, then I went to lower the skid plate and the tank came with it! I reused the filler neck hose but had to replace the vent tube next to it which I used copper pipe from a burst pipe I had.
