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1990 Front Pinoin Seal

Justin Fleming

1/2 ton status
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Oxford MI
What kind of success rate do you have with replacing the pinoin seal with out screwing up the gear lash etc.

Any one have any tips and tricks?

thanks
 
Your 10 bolt will have a crush sleeve. The proper way to do it is remove the carrier. Remove the pinion. Put new crush sleeve on put seal on crush the crush sleeve. Way to complicated. So having done this several times go get a new seal and a new pinion nut and red loctite. Get a feel for how much drag there is when you turn the yoke (axle shafts should be out for this). There won't be much. Now remove the yoke put the new seal in. Replace yoke. Tighten down the new pinion nut slathered in loctite. Unless you have a really good impact you can probably just bang it on. If you have a good one tighten till snug. Smack the yoke and check for front to back play. Tighten a touch more. Do this till there is no play. Then go 1/10 of a turn or less for final tighten. Do not go much if you are crushing the old crush sleeve you will be out of spec by a huge amount with anything more than a tenth.

No need to worry about shims or anything even if you take the carrier out ( to get a true idea of beginning pinion bearing preload the carrier needs to be out) everything is stuck behind races or bearings.
 
Since mine doesn't get used 98% of the time, and pretty much never during any high speed driving, I just removed the pinion, installed new seal, tightened it all back up. Sure it may not be perfect, and people that are concerned with abnormal or excessive wear, again, with it's VERY limited use, it's gonna take a good long while for any damage to occur. Unless you have full time 4wd.

The rear diff, yes, I'd have that one done as correct as possible due to the constant use.
 
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