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1990 Suburban 1500 question

Justinwrites

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I'm a total newb at mechanic work. But I've been convinced that by the power of google and youtube I can pull and replace the 350 in my beast (deep engine knock, smoking, shop says it's shot). I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good how to. Failing that, I'll take your favorite tips and tricks and methods for keeping all 2, 10, 11 attached.

Thanks!
 
Take the front clip off - easy to do and will save time and your back from bending over the fenders. Also you won't need to try to figure out a way to get it out over the radiator if you have a lift.
 
Take the front clip off - easy to do and will save time and your back from bending over the fenders. Also you won't need to try to figure out a way to get it out over the radiator if you have a lift.

Yes, taking the front clip off will make things easier. Barring that, even the core support off will make it a thousand times easier.

Just swapped engines in my truck, and had I pulled the core support in the first place, would have gone much faster, and I wouldn't have been as sore. Fenders removed would have made it exponentially easier.

Make your job as easy as possible. Concrete surface, good lighting, something to keep you dry if rain is a possibility.

Budget yourself a lot of time. The problems caused by rushing will be more difficult to fix, and may lead to problems when it's time to start the new engine up. If it runs now, when you put the new engine in, it should run then too. Watch for wires not disconnected or caught on things. Missed bolts. If you pull the knock sensor from the block you should get most of the coolant out of the block, which will invariably figure out a way to spill all over, even when you are sure everything has been drained.

I have a manual transmission, one thing I found much easier last time was to remove the engine mounts from the frame. Allowed me to slide the engine in pretty much straight forward and back, helping line everything up. An automatic won't have the same problems, but polyurethane engine mounts are sometimes also a pain to deal with the same way, and having those as well, pulling the engine mounts from the frame eliminated those as a problem too.
 
Awesome. That's the kind of advice I need. I will need to be able to push the truck in and out of my garage, so I'm thinking of chaining or bracing the transmission up. Will that work out? Is there any specific better way to reconnect the transmission and engine on the back half of the project?
 
In my truck with a SM465 I put a 2x4 (or 2 - it's been a while) on top of the springs next to the shackles to support the transmission. Don't know if that'd work for an automatic also.
 
A piece of wood probably is the best bet, I had not considered it, so I used a ratcheting tie down, but with the polyurethane trans mount, it really wasn't needed. Those mounts only let the trans move so much.
 
I don't know much, can you point me at la ls swap info? I found a local rebuild shop that wants 1800. Junk yard motors want 650 but the donor trucks are obviously old. I'm really into making it as reliable as I can for a reasonable cost.
 
take just the front end off? you should take the entire body off. Once you realize how easy it is to get the motor out, you'll instantly realize how easy it is to do a nut and bolt resto.... just start by taking the body off. Since it will only take one day to do it, you can do this behind your only-running-car which is parked in your garage. Good luck. Happy April 1
 
Summit offers a crate engine less than $1800. Delivered to your door. Did this last year. Take lots of pictures before you pull your engine.
 
Summit offers a crate engine less than $1800. Delivered to your door. Did this last year. Take lots of pictures before you pull your engine.
I'm glad you brought that up. I was warned off of crates from basically anyone other than Jasper. And from what I can tell the rebuild is likely to be as good. This shop offers a 7/70k warranty.

I've never been a car guy. I'm determined to learn. So have people had good experiences with summit? I just had the 700r4 rebuilt. Is it worth it to even consider an ls swap?
I have no knowledge of my engines history outside of the two years I've driven it. I put in barely 5000 miles before it started knocking real bad. Is rebuilding even a good idea?
 
The one from Summit is a G.M. Engine. Not a rebuild. I went with stock for simplicity. After I broke this motor in. I ran it cross country. Puting 4000 miles on it. Trouble free.
 
I don't know much, can you point me at la ls swap info? I found a local rebuild shop that wants 1800. Junk yard motors want 650 but the donor trucks are obviously old. I'm really into making it as reliable as I can for a reasonable cost.
Click the link in my signature.
 
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