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1991 3+3 longbed

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Smithy316

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Looking at an $800 1991 3+3 SRW long bed. 6.2D SM465 4spd unsure of rear end ratio. Tires are 37s and have good tread, but on the front the rim looks too close/rubbing on brakes. What would cause that? They're 16in rims. The bed is shot(tailgate falling off) but I have a bed off a c20 that's in better shape. That would be a simple swap right? Rockers are pretty gone, inner fender as well. Would need exhaust and maybe brake lines. Wiring looks a bit chopped under the hood. Looks like it'd need new weather stripping on back window. Assuming it runs fine and 4x4 works is it worth it?
 
Less would be better!--sounds like it'll need a lot of work,but then again,the parts are probably worth that much,if you tried buying a boneyard 6.2,Sm465 ...depends on how much time,labor and money you'll be willing to add on top of the sale price if it is worth it to you or not...cant buy much for 800 bucks that runs and drives today,really..

The front rim might be off a 3/4 ton ,when it might need the dished out "Budd" style rim on the front,or maybe its some old drum brake style rim...not one for disc brakes,that has more offset..
 
diesel4me said:
The front rim might be off a 3/4 ton ,when it might need the dished out "Budd" style rim on the front,or maybe its some old drum brake style rim...not one for disc brakes,that has more offset..
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How could I find wheels that would fit for sure? Is there a keyword I need?
 
I dont know,if the truck is a 1 ton SRW with a Dana 60 it could use Budd rims up front or just "regular" ones,how you'd determine which ones are correct I cant say for sure..if its a 3/4 ton with a 10 bolt or Dana 44 I doubt it would use a Budd rim,but who knows what GM made it with...

Perhaps it just has one rim off some other brand of truck like a Ford that was a spare or something--the other rims on the truck may have codes or numbers on the inside of the rim--I've seen a few that had a code stamped on the outside near the valve stem area..the rims sound like they will be the least of your worries...they can be found at salvage yards...usually just measuring the offset and matching the style of rim works out OK..

The pickup bed "should" fit being a SRW,if it was a dually,it would need the bed with the "stepside" added fenders to cover the duals....
 
Kinda hard to go off the small amount of information here, but if that's a body/engine combination you're interested in, I doubt you'll find it cheaper. The drivetrain, frame, and cab could prolly fetch more than that even if the bed is shot.

So...if it's what you're looking for, you prolly won't beat that price. If it runs fine and 4x4 works, I'm not sure what more you could want for $800. So, unless you don't want a 6.2/SM465 combo, I'd jump on it. 6.2 engines are a lot of fun, IMO. There are a bunch of 6.2 guys here that can walk you through the quirks of the 6.2 if you've never owned one.

To answer the questions:

1) dieselforme did a fine job on this one. I'd add this: Don't let having the wrong rims stop you from buying the right truck. Rims are easy to swap out.

2) Bed swapping is simple enough (I did it on my '83 a few years ago). 10 carriage bolts hold the bed to the frame (IIRC). The fuel filler will have 2 small sheet-metal screws. The rear lights will have a round 4-pin plug at the back. That should be all that's required to remove the bed. I think it took me an hour from start to finish, working by myself, and counting the time it took to figure out how it was attached. I did use a cutting torch on the carriage bolts. An angle grinder would have also worked. My bolts were far too rusty for me to want to save them.

As for the chopped wiring, the 6.2 is a one-wire engine. If power gets to the injection pump (typically a pink wire), the engine can run regardless of whether other sensors work. So having weird splices underneath the hood is a hassle, but it won't keep the truck from running. IP, glow plugs, starter, and fuel pump (should be electric on a late-model) should keep it running just fine.
 
campfire said:
Kinda hard to go off the small amount of information here, but if that's a body/engine combination you're interested in, I doubt you'll find it cheaper. The drivetrain, frame, and cab could prolly fetch more than that even if the bed is shot.

So...if it's what you're looking for, you prolly won't beat that price. If it runs fine and 4x4 works, I'm not sure what more you could want for $800. So, unless you don't want a 6.2/SM465 combo, I'd jump on it. 6.2 engines are a lot of fun, IMO. There are a bunch of 6.2 guys here that can walk you through the quirks of the 6.2 if you've never owned one.
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Originally was looking for a 6.2 Blazer. I gave up on finding that a couple months ago and widened the search to any square 6.2. This is the closest to me I've found that's been worth my time. It's cheap and the crew cab makes it a bit special at least imho
 
I wouldn't mind having a 3+3,I almost bought two of them years ago,but passed on them because of excessive rust issues..one was a '74 ,it had a 400 SB/Th400,the other one was a '75 and had a 454/Sm465...about the only disadvantage to a crew cab is they are LONG and aren't easy to park or use to plow with,and those are 2 important things to me..

I always end up having my cab full of crap like jumper cables,spare battery,jugs of oil,etc,things I dont have room for in the tool box,and dont like leaving out to the weather or for crackheads to swipe in the bed..and you end up with no room for a passenger,groceries,or yourself..

That is why I bought a Suburban,unfortunately I've never been able to scrape up enough money to put it on the road,and now it has sat 5 years,and needs a lot more work than it did when I parked it where it sits now..the other day I started it up,and it now has no brakes,at least one line has rusted thru now..:(..

It would be nice to have both a pickup and a Suburban,because neither is the "ideal" all around truck--the Burb cant haul a lawn tractor or a couch,or a fridge,and a crew cab doesn't have quite enough room for more than 4 people if your going out on the town...

I loved my K5's but they had their shortcomings too--too short a wheelbase for a smooth ride,not that much room in them,and they cant carry the things I listed a Burb cant--but for plowing they were great,you can turn them around on a dime,provided they are on stock suspention and tires..

I cant say I "love" my 6.2's but I dont hate them either...if fuel was not more than gasoline I'd like them a lot more,and if I were as familiar as I am with GM gas engines I'd like them more too...they look a lot harder to work on,as far as doing a water pump,and anything behind that--but I've not had to touch my injector pump or anything else in 12 years either!..I'd probably just drop in another used engine if the ones I have gave any major grief..
 
Aren't the rims suppose to be 16.5" at the very least? Unless they are a steel 16" with a very flat dish that wont get in the way.
 
You could get 16" or 16.5" wheels.

I can't tell from your post, is it 2wd or 4x4? If it is 4x4 and still has the Dana 60, it is definitely worth $800.

Martin
 
Around here that front axle sells for $800-1200, as long as it is what it should be.
 
If you don't get it, point me to it and I will (assuming it is a 4x4 with the front 60 still in it). If this thing is anywhere near Spokane, be sure that the 60 is still in there. Allan, mountainexplorer, has severely reduced the population of Dana 60 front axles in that region.
 
kennyw said:
If you don't get it, point me to it and I will (assuming it is a 4x4 with the front 60 still in it). If this thing is anywhere near Spokane, be sure that the 60 is still in there. Allan, mountainexplorer, has severely reduced the population of Dana 60 front axles in that region.
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Sorry I don't know why my state didn't show up. This is Michigan lol
 
If indeed it is a 91, should have the VSS on the 205. Parts alone is worth the $800...

3/4 or 1 ton rims are the same, zero difference. Sounds like maybe an IFS rim on the front, they have more offset than the SFA rims.
 
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