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1995 Tacoma throttle stumble

eclipse85k10

eclipse85k10

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Picked up a few years ago a 1995 Tacoma for my kids first car. Is a 2.7 5-speed truck.
The previous owner put a new longblock in it just before I got it.

It has a random throttle stumble around 2250 rpms m usually you can mash the pedal and drive thru it.

What is I've tried

Cleaned the throttle body
New fuel filter
New fuel pump
New plugs
Both new O2 sensors
New maf sensor

Cant remember what else. Today he called me and then its stumble point. This time it died and wouldn't run again. I originally thought it was the O2 because it could run for a week or more without doing this but seems to be getting more frequent
 
eclipse85k10 said:
Picked up a few years ago a 1995 Tacoma for my kids first car. Is a 2.7 5-speed truck.
The previous owner put a new longblock in it just before I got it.

It has a random throttle stumble around 2250 rpms m usually you can mash the pedal and drive thru it.

What is I've tried

Cleaned the throttle body
New fuel filter
New fuel pump
New plugs
Both new O2 sensors
New maf sensor

Cant remember what else. Today he called me and then its stumble point. This time it died and wouldn't run again. I originally thought it was the O2 because it could run for a week or more without doing this but seems to be getting more frequent
Click to expand...
I don't know much about the time-line with Toyota engines, is it a multi port fuel injection?
If so does it have a cam sensor?
Also is the timing chain driven or belt?
 
imiceman44 said:
I don't know much about the time-line with Toyota engines, is it a multi port fuel injection?
If so does it have a cam sensor?
Also is the timing chain driven or belt?
Click to expand...
It's timing chain and not sure about Cam sensor I'll have to check that out
 
Do these need a crank position re-learn after an engine swap?
 
Blue85 said:
Do these need a crank position re-learn after an engine swap?
Click to expand...
I believe they do but without a relearn it wouldn't start, I am sure when they put the new engine in they had to have done it
 
Like a mechanical adjustment or something? Every one I've seen requires the engine running.
 
Blue85 said:
Like a mechanical adjustment or something? Every one I've seen requires the engine running.
Click to expand...
Well technically if you crank it long enough it will eventually start and I had to do that on my Honda accord. But after it did that every time I learned about the re-learn
 
Oh interesting. The PO had drove it for a few months with the new long block before I bought it and it slowly developed the problem. It didn't do it when I first got it but maybe it's never been right
 
Got back home and was able to tow the little yota home from the park and ride. So far found a ground that's been unhooked from when he swapped the block. Tried your scanner and no signal. I'm hoping it was just the ground popping a fuse. I'll have to hook it up and find out
 
Connected the engine ground that wasn't hooked up. Checked all the fuse nothing blown and no ecm signal to the odb2. Crank no start or even sputter
 
Well update worked on it all day.

Turning it over trying to start the tach wasn't moving so I decided to put a crank position sensor in it. No change

Tested the EFI relay with a multimeter tested out ok but still put a jumpee wire in and now I can connect to the ECM with the odbii

With this found a P1300 code , which relates to a signal issue for the igniter module to the ECM. Also found the wiring harness wasn't secured and had touched the exhaust manifold exposing one wire which goes to the ignitor module. I double checked voltage and continuity at the ECM from a trouble shooting guide. I was getting the correct readings at the ECM.

Decided to go buy a new igniter module. Only 300

No dice. Still crank no start. No I still have the P1300 code and now a P0340 code for the cam sensor. Most frustrating
 
Still not going here. After replacing the igniter and checking wiring and fuses. I currently now have spark. It trys to fire for half a second and then nothing. Now trying to diagnose fuel tracing the electrical for the fuel pump. We did the fuel pump earlier this year too.

I removed the relay they call the open circuit relay and it failed the continuity test. So I was thrilled to by a 150 dollar relay. Yet no change. The 1995 Tacoma only powers the fuel pump when running and turning the starter. Before changing the relay I removed the starter relay and turned the key. Couldn't tell if I could hear the pump. I guess next is to lift the bed and check the pump unfortunately
 
Finally got it running. After replacing the fuel pressure regulator it fired it. Idled clean but around 1800-2800 it would stutter and buck badly. Read on a taco forum of someone with the same problem and it was a worn bearing in the distributor. Kinda spendy piece to try but went ahead and picked one up. I really wanted to find a used denso factory one but since they only had a distributor on the 95-96 years they are really hard to find.

Runs like butter now. Kids happy it's much nicer to drive. Hope it keeps going. Dumped a bunch into the old beater this winter :eek:
 
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