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1999 vortec engine trouble
- Thread starter imiceman44
- Start date
or parked for 3 years with exhaust valve open or intake valve open .
and those look like E3 plugs . do the acdelco factory stuff .
and those look like E3 plugs . do the acdelco factory stuff .
I am putting the factory stuff.
It's only one.
And when I swapped it over the misfire moved.
I thought about the possibility of gasket leak but at this point I am running it to find out.
If it had gasket problems sitting for 3 years sometimes seals it temporarily and it would open up as soon as you start driving it.
Will deal with it then.
This morning security light is back.
I left it and went to work. Tonight I will see if it will do the same or take less time to relearn, if it keeps happening I will try the resistor trick unless there's a way I can delete that from the ecm
I left it and went to work. Tonight I will see if it will do the same or take less time to relearn, if it keeps happening I will try the resistor trick unless there's a way I can delete that from the ecm
Ok so after getting the security figured out and changing the spark plugs it ran great for a day.
Came back this morning and it would not start.
I can't hear the pump priming.
I checked the relay and it is engaging, got under the tank and checked the pump, it's priming for 1/2 a second.
I tried many times, I also relieved the pressure in the line and checked again.
It's priming for half a second, could it be a bad pump,plugged sock, plugged fuel filter?
The only other thing I noticed is that the fuel gauge now pegs past full when you turn the ignition on.
I have a feeling I have to drop the tank, but if anyone has thoughts on it I will give it a day before I dive in.
Thanks
Came back this morning and it would not start.
I can't hear the pump priming.
I checked the relay and it is engaging, got under the tank and checked the pump, it's priming for 1/2 a second.
I tried many times, I also relieved the pressure in the line and checked again.
It's priming for half a second, could it be a bad pump,plugged sock, plugged fuel filter?
The only other thing I noticed is that the fuel gauge now pegs past full when you turn the ignition on.
I have a feeling I have to drop the tank, but if anyone has thoughts on it I will give it a day before I dive in.
Thanks
I will try that thanks
Bang on the bottom of the tank with your hand or a rubber mallet. Try it again. We typically see failing fuel pumps that the vehicle gets towed into the shop, we bang on the bottom of the tank and the unit starts right up to bring it inside. The cause is usually a dead spot on the pump motor's armature and banging it gets it to shift just enough that the brushes make contact and it starts spinning. Funny thing is, once they get going it tends to build pressure within the spec to run ok. But, the fact one has to bang on the tank to get it to run is justification enough to warrant replacement.
This is where having a test relay with a manual switch is worth it's weight in gold. By being able to manually engage the relay you take the ECM out of the equation. If the fuel pump runs on the test relay it may be an ECM control issue you need to look at. If the pump doesn't come on with the test relay, you can validate you have power at the pump connector. If you do have power at the pump connector but it still doesn't run, you can be sure the pump is junk.
You can make a test relay pretty easy by taking one apart and installing a manual switch across the load side. Or you can just buy a set already made.
This is where having a test relay with a manual switch is worth it's weight in gold. By being able to manually engage the relay you take the ECM out of the equation. If the fuel pump runs on the test relay it may be an ECM control issue you need to look at. If the pump doesn't come on with the test relay, you can validate you have power at the pump connector. If you do have power at the pump connector but it still doesn't run, you can be sure the pump is junk.
You can make a test relay pretty easy by taking one apart and installing a manual switch across the load side. Or you can just buy a set already made.
I know the pump is getting power.Bang on the bottom of the tank with your hand or a rubber mallet. Try it again. We typically see failing fuel pumps that the vehicle gets towed into the shop, we bang on the bottom of the tank and the unit starts right up to bring it inside. The cause is usually a dead spot on the pump motor's armature and banging it gets it to shift just enough that the brushes make contact and it starts spinning. Funny thing is, once they get going it tends to build pressure within the spec to run ok. But, the fact one has to bang on the tank to get it to run is justification enough to warrant replacement.
This is where having a test relay with a manual switch is worth it's weight in gold. By being able to manually engage the relay you take the ECM out of the equation. If the fuel pump runs on the test relay it may be an ECM control issue you need to look at. If the pump doesn't come on with the test relay, you can validate you have power at the pump connector. If you do have power at the pump connector but it still doesn't run, you can be sure the pump is junk.
You can make a test relay pretty easy by taking one apart and installing a manual switch across the load side. Or you can just buy a set already made.
I disconnected the fuel filter and everytime I cycle the ignition it spits a little fuel, after five cycles I had about an ounce in the container
I bought a fuel pump, tomorrow it goes in.
Pretty odd for a pump to prime and then not operate correctly for sure.
Anythings possible, but since they are drenched in fuel, heating up isn't a consideration. Dealt with this on my TPI setup, either the pump would run, or it wouldn't. If I heard it prime, it would start. If it wouldn't prime, it wouldn't start.
But if the pump is getting power (I assume you just powered it directly by jumpering the relay terminals or connecting at the tank connector) there can't be much to it other than inside the tank. If you can reach, might want to make sure the tank wiring going into the sender isn't broken or something. Obviously something further down the circuit, past wherever you know it has power (and ground).
Anythings possible, but since they are drenched in fuel, heating up isn't a consideration. Dealt with this on my TPI setup, either the pump would run, or it wouldn't. If I heard it prime, it would start. If it wouldn't prime, it wouldn't start.
But if the pump is getting power (I assume you just powered it directly by jumpering the relay terminals or connecting at the tank connector) there can't be much to it other than inside the tank. If you can reach, might want to make sure the tank wiring going into the sender isn't broken or something. Obviously something further down the circuit, past wherever you know it has power (and ground).
It's not priming, priming was taking 2 seconds and it was doing that a couple of days ago, but now it's just half a second, just a blip, that is why I am thinking it's bad or plugged up. And the fuel sender is bad so maw
Oh gotcha. I could see an electric motor acting like that. If you can apply power and it acts the same, I'd bet motor too.
I'm sure you will, but be sure to closely examine the old pump to see if you can tell what was wrong.
The rear tank on my F250 got flaky. I could fill it up, switch to it and drive for miles. Sometimes I would go through two or three tankfuls with no problems.
But sooner or later the truck would start sputtering, and quit running.
If I switched to the front tank, it would pick back up and run fine.
Problem was, it would not stay that way. The rear tank might do fine for a long time, or fail in a couple of minutes. After it quit, I might switch it back on and have it do great for days.
I figured a bad connection somewhere. 30 year old wires after all.
I bought a kit and replaced the plug in connector on top of the tank. I was able to do that without dropping the tank or taking out the pump.
That actually seemed to help, and things went along fine for about a month. Then it quit again.
Finally dropped the tank and changed the pump. Internal wiring was fine, hose was good, pump seemed fine. Sock was getting sucked up into the intake every once in a while.
Of course, the brand new, name brand pump I replaced it with failed about 20 minutes after I put it in. It waited until I filled the tank all the way, of course.
The rear tank on my F250 got flaky. I could fill it up, switch to it and drive for miles. Sometimes I would go through two or three tankfuls with no problems.
But sooner or later the truck would start sputtering, and quit running.
If I switched to the front tank, it would pick back up and run fine.
Problem was, it would not stay that way. The rear tank might do fine for a long time, or fail in a couple of minutes. After it quit, I might switch it back on and have it do great for days.
I figured a bad connection somewhere. 30 year old wires after all.
I bought a kit and replaced the plug in connector on top of the tank. I was able to do that without dropping the tank or taking out the pump.
That actually seemed to help, and things went along fine for about a month. Then it quit again.
Finally dropped the tank and changed the pump. Internal wiring was fine, hose was good, pump seemed fine. Sock was getting sucked up into the intake every once in a while.
Of course, the brand new, name brand pump I replaced it with failed about 20 minutes after I put it in. It waited until I filled the tank all the way, of course.
My Delco TPI pump died in less than 5 years, with less than 10,000 miles on it. Name brand seems to mean less and less. 
First Delco pump went at least 10 years.
First Delco pump went at least 10 years.
I changed the pump and it runs perfect.
Tried to find a pump online that can ship quick, but the earliest was a week and that was Amazon, and it was not cheap enough to wait, so I went to napa, and bought their name brand top of the line.
I usually don't go for a warranty but knowing these pumps don't last forever I took the lifetime warranty.
And as for the old one, just like I always do, I kept it to dissect it and figure out what happened.
That's how I learned everything I know, I also have fixed plenty of parts during the war or else we wouldn't have running cars.
I like to know how things work.
And now it's not running.
I need to check the wires that I spliced otherwise it's the shortest lived pump ever total run time 10 minutes
Doh!
So now the pump works but after running for a few minutes it shuts off, and the fuel gauge pegs and it will not run anymore.
Unhooked the battery for a while hooked it back up and it ran fine for another few minutes.
It feels like a breaker resetting or maybe an old wire that's getting hot and cutting off.
Still trying to figure it out
According to the service manual the pump runs off of the ecm-b fuse in the under hood fuse block. It's obviously not blowing or else it would not work after it quit.
My guess is you got a bad ground or high resistance on the ground side from the pump and it's drawing more current than the motor can handle and it's quitting.
Your new pump came with a new connector right? Make sure you didn't swap the grounds for the sender and the pump. The ECM would not like having that current come through on the signal ground. Kinda sounds like you did based on how the gauge behaves.
The schematic shows both wires are black (big help right) but the fuel pump ground is the larger of the two wires. Terminal locations on the original connector would be terminal c for the fuel pump ground and terminal d for the sender ground.
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