CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1o bolt front pinion yoke

max 02

Roll the dice…
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Sep 29, 2009
Posts
13,657
Reaction score
9,175
Location
Eckville Alberta Canada
I wanted to use this on my front diff....I'm guessing those groves shouldn't be there.


 
No. But is that groove on the sealing surface of the seal?
 
Pretty sure it is...it leaked like crazy! Thought it was just the seal. :doah:

I wanted to use this one off my old 1/2 ton front on my new 3/4 ton front because my drive shaft is sloppy in between the ears, if that make sense. :dunno:
 
Pretty sure it is...it leaked like crazy! Thought it was just the seal. :doah:

I wanted to use this one off my old 1/2 ton front on my new 3/4 ton front because my drive shaft is sloppy in between the ears, if that make sense. :dunno:

Gotcha. I wonder if rear ten bolt yokes are the same as the fronts :dunno:

I'd send you mine if I can find it.
 
Hey that's a good question Adam.

Thanks for the offer! :waytogo: But I should be able to find one here.

Or I wonder if I could stick it in my 50ton press and squeeze it a bit...with out killing myself or breaking it?? :eek1::haha:
 
front is different seal size than rear for some reason .

and the yoke is bad in the pic .

can get speedi sleave but the part can run up to or over 30 bucks . some times cheeper to get new or good clean used yoke.

myine was little funky and I scored a sleave off rockauto cheep . but was next to last one listed for 15 bucks . here it is installed .

I think its the same part # you might need . as I swaped the rear 12 bolt axle yoke out for the rear 10 bolt axle yoke in my 12 bolt axle build for the rear of my 2wd so I didn't have to do custom driveshaft work .

0720131015b.jpg

0720131015a.jpg
 
Hey that's a good question Adam.

Thanks for the offer! :waytogo: But I should be able to find one here.

Or I wonder if I could stick it in my 50ton press and squeeze it a bit...with out killing myself or breaking it?? :eek1::haha:

Haha take a video!!! :thumb:
 
front is different seal size than rear for some reason .

and the yoke is bad in the pic .

can get speedi sleave but the part can run up to or over 30 bucks . some times cheeper to get new or good clean used yoke.

I bet that sleave would be even more in Canada than that. I have to pay double or triple what you guys pay for parts! :doah:

Just don't know why the one I got is so sprung. Anyone seen that before?

I didn`t see your pics before... cool! Thanks! :thumb:
 
I bet that sleave would be even more in Canada than that. I have to pay double or triple what you guys pay for parts! :doah:

Just don't know why the one I got is so sprung. Anyone seen that before?

Must have had some dirt or something gritty in that seal
 
Must have had some dirt or something gritty in that seal

No I meant the other one I got on the 3/4 ton axle. The ears are too far apart for the u joint to seat in there nice with out slopping around.

But yeah the groves have to be from dirt or grit.
 
Not sure how soon you need one but I stole the hubs outta a 10 bolt at buddies.

I could get the yoke for nothing. Not sure if its any good though.
 
No I meant the other one I got on the 3/4 ton axle. The ears are too far apart for the u joint to seat in there nice with out slopping around.

But yeah the groves have to be from dirt or grit.

I wonder if the yoke on it is meant for 1330 or 1350 u joints?

A conversion joint could be used in that case.
 
Sometimes a new seal's rubber lip wont land in the same spot as the original,and it'll work without leaking...some timing cover seals are made "offset" a little, so a worn harmonic balancer snout wont make it leak..saves you from having to sleeve it..

I know its a gamble,but I've put new seals on things like that ,that had a wear groove,and as long as the groove wasn't "rough",the seal lasted fine and never leaked..I used 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on the grooved area to ensure there was no sharp edges or burrs..

I also wonder if a little J-B Weld or Quicksteel could be used to fill the groove in,and sanded smooth?...
 
Not sure how soon you need one but I stole the hubs outta a 10 bolt at buddies.

I could get the yoke for nothing. Not sure if its any good though.

I`ll let you know! :thumb:

I wonder if the yoke on it is meant for 1330 or 1350 u joints?

A conversion joint could be used in that case.

Actually the joint is the right one. Not sure what size it is though.
I was just under it and took a video but it won`t load.

Sometimes a new seal's rubber lip wont land in the same spot as the original,and it'll work without leaking...some timing cover seals are made "offset" a little, so a worn harmonic balancer snout wont make it leak..saves you from having to sleeve it..

I know its a gamble,but I've put new seals on things like that ,that had a wear groove,and as long as the groove wasn't "rough",the seal lasted fine and never leaked..I used 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on the grooved area to ensure there was no sharp edges or burrs..

I also wonder if a little J-B Weld or Quicksteel could be used to fill the groove in,and sanded smooth?...

Thanks Might be worth a try.
 
does that 3/4 ton yoke have the little ears to keep the caps in?

Ive seen the odd one that doesnt have ears and requires C clips.
 
Top Bottom