1st gen body on 2nd gen frame

[blazin_blazer]

i know there is a 2.5" difference in wheelbase, but i assume this could be taken care of with zero rates. but where would you want to move the axels? more up front or more in the rear, i've been told not to use the zero rates at all, and to center the rear wheel and let the front be moved forward the difference to keep the rear of the front tire out of the firewall.??

the frame rails are the same width, so i'm not all that concerned about moving the body mounts, as i plan on filling all the unused holes in the frame and also boxing the frame,(so moving body mounts doesn't seem that hard) my main goal is to strengthen it where the leaf springs attach. and make the bottom as slick as the paint on the body so when it comes out of the mud pit, i can get it mostly clean by using their fire hose in the clean up area.

what other obstacles can i expect. i have a full on machine shop at my disposal. but any help from people who have done this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Greg72]

Sounds like the same question that you've asked (and WE'VE answered) in the past.....

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146694


You are making this a lot harder on yourself than it has to be. Why waste time swapping frames, when all you REALLY need are some custom front spring hangers to use the later model K5 springs???

The reason nobody does this is because it makes no sense. You've got a frame that is better than the later model ones (thicker and with better support around the steering box from the FACTORY!) and it already fits....

Spend a little time fabricating new front mounts for the front spring hangers (I'd use the existing shackle mount up front, and let the whole assembly move forward slightly anyway) and you're DONE!!!!

Simple.

 

[blazin_blazer]

reasoning

well you see a previous owner wheeled the wee out of it and ran it hard enough to bend the frame and just ripped the entire steering box out of the frame and it has cracks running every where. i've measured enuff to find out that it (the body) is salvagable, but the frame is thrashed hard core.

now , i don't know about where you live but around here, finding a good 1st gen frame is about as easy as finding the end of the rainbow....now 2nd gens...i myself have 4 of em, 3 still even have stripped out bodies on them so i'm trying to get my 1st gen back on the trail, with what is available to me. because as you mentioned, i have asked this b4 and what was the date on that? and i've been searching for a 1st gen frame even b4 then.

the way the steering box did on this 1st gen i dont see how you say that it has a heavier frame....i've actually used my slide rule and my '79 frame is almost twice as thick as the 69. i'm not going to argue, i've seen the #'s and i'm just asking for a little help, but guess i'm going to do it on my own and then when some1 else asks this question, i can chime in....because it has to be done. so if any1 has done it chime in please!

 

[Greg72]

Well.....that changes things a wee bit. I didn't realize that the stock frame was so thrashed.

I have an extra 1st Gen frame here (NH)....so I guess that's where the rainbow ends, eh?

If you've got the space, I'd say pull the body off that 1st Gen to get access to the frame. Once you can lay it next to a later model frame and take comparative measurements, you can start relocating the body mounts. IIRC the later model frames are TALLER than the 1st Gens so you're probably going to have more frame showing than normal. Widthwise, I'm not sure what you'll find....but again with the two frames side-by-side you can measure across each one at the crossmembers and see if the new frame needs to be narrowed or not.

It doesn't sound impossible, it's just a TON of tedious work......which is why it's almost always easier to find a donor for the frame. I wonder if a regular truck (C10, C20 or Burb) from those years (69-72) would at least be a closer match??? That would broaden your search possibilities a lot and still save you time in the long run.....methinks

 

[sweetk30]

i my self would ceter the frt end and move the back end around. lot less work than all the frt steering and dist to firewall work. and zero rates are fine. just dont use a std lift block in the frt end.

 

[blazin_blazer]

i thought about that too

i was wondering if a 1st gen truck frame would work also, but they are all 2wd...and since its alot of work either way, i think i would rather fit it on the 2nd gen k5 frame. you can't hardly find a 1st gen 4x4 of any kind around here, not even on the streets or the bone yards, not sure where they all went?
.
i've been wondering about a piece of 3x3 tubing, run parallel with the truck, spanning the 2nd gen mounts under the door. i would call it the second and third body mount, and cut the holes where they need to be for the 1st gen body.

then the 4th and 5th mount run the same 3x3 tubing across the frame from side to side where the 1st gen mounts are and possibly weld the tubing to the frame and/or bolt it to the 2nd gen frame real good where ever it needs to be, and put a 3'' spacer under the radiator support. thus taking care of the mounting positions and getting a 3" body lift at the same time.

i've speculated alot of different ways to make this possible. i just wish i could find a 1st gen blazer frame close by! we'll see what happens! i've even thought about starting from scratch and making my own frame out of tubing?? and use the body mount pieces that are riveted to the original frame.

any1 close to me know where any of these are sitting in your local scapyards? i would be willing to drive a ways to get 1! as far as space goes, i have plenty, about 12 acres here. so that is not a problem, and its already on its way to looking like a scrapyard.

i'm also looking for a 73-75 k5 full top, as i want to convert my '80 to a full convertable. so if any1 runs across one of these let me know also, please.