CK5
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1st gen custom radio "build"

Yea, what's up with that? I guess you have a better excuse than me though.:D Congratulations! by the way.

There's a fine balance between how much time you spend in the garage vs. how much time your wife makes you spend in the doghouse (if you know what I mean )

The radio has been taking a back seat to the motor install, but I'll have an update (with pictures) in about 2-3 business days. Seriously, I ordered some new machined parts about 2 hours ago. The old parts didn't quite fit right and wouldn't have been very reliable if I used them on the truck.

Sweet... :D
 
Update: power-on test and new buttons

I received my new buttons and mounting bracket on Thursday. I ordered them online from a place in Ohio somewhere and I just emailed them the 3d data and they mailed the parts back in a couple days (after a deduction from my credit card).

Here's the buttons. I found it's way cheaper to machine them as one block instead of individual pieces. Then I just cut them out and did a little sanding to clean them up.

radio_1 001.jpg
 
Here's the mounting bracket on the faceplate. The little holes each line up with a rubber "nub" that activates a contact on the board to change presets, modes, etc.

radio_1 004.jpg
 
And here's a quick power-on test to make sure the thing still works. It seems to work fine, but has this "demo mode" that it keep switching into if you don't do anything. That make taking pictures tough because all the lights flash.

radio_1 008.jpg
 
And a final shot of the comparison image between the stock radio and the new one. I think it'll look just fine, but I thought of one big problem...

The new radio has one joystick type knob that doesn't rotate and one that does. I was planning on attaching one of the big turnable knobs onto it and just using the knob to move it up/down/left/right.

But...I realized one of my friends (or me) might try and rotate it without knowing it doesn't turn. I obviously have to figure out a way to make it strong enough to not break or allow it to rotate along with the joystick function to keep it from snapping off. That's going to be tricky.

I also gotta keep the thing sturdy enough to handle the 40 year old suspension (or lack of it).

radio_1 025.jpg
 
Update: Button installation

I was also able to make some progress on the radio. It's difficult to describe, but each button has a small set screw installed in the bottom which activates the rubber contact on the radio board. The rubber pad also acts as a return spring so I didn't need to add one of those.

I installed a long steel standoff in a pre-drilled hole on button spacer that I had machined. This slides onto a hole on the back of the button and allows it to move up and down without moving left or right.

newbuttons 006.jpg

newbuttons 005.jpg
 
I've got about 1/2 of the buttons done and just need to make some adjustments on the bracket to center the screen in the window and I might be able to install it in the k5. :saweet:

newbuttons 007.jpg

radio_1 033.jpg

newbuttons 008.jpg
 
Very cool...... only 16 months from start to "almost" finished!!! :wink1:

I like the exponential look of the button sizing.


:waytogo:



:usaflag:
 
very neat thread.... Holy poop that seems like a ton of work! Wanna make one for me:D seeing as how it is soooooo simple and all:bow:

Cant wait to see the finished product......
 
Update: Road test

So while most people probably pack clothes and gear into their truck before a road trip, I stayed up until 3:30am finishing this radio for our trip. It was good that I finished it, but at 8:00am as we were leaving the radio wouldn't turn on so I gave up on it until I could have some time with it.

The new stereo can't use the same mounting method as the old since the volume and tuning knobs are now just flimsy electrical components and not structural, I needed a new mounting method.

I decided to fab up some bracketry to attach it above the stock ash tray. In this pic, you can see the ashtray bracket on the left, the riser I fabbed in the middle, and then another bracket that holds the radio parts together.

radio bracket 001.jpg
 
The riser bracket rides over the ashtray bracket and uses the same 4 screws to mount it in position. This bracket carries the weight of the radio and positions it correctly in the dash opening. The pic is of the two parts fit together.

radio bracket 002.jpg
 
Here's the whole assembly out of the truck. I won't try and describe how difficult it is to get everything to fit. You have to rotate each parts just right to get it in there.

radio bracket 008.jpg
 
And here's how it looked after powering it up and testing it's operation at 3:00am.

Once 6:00am rolled around (and time to head out for Moab) and everything was packed up, I found the radio wouldn't turn on. After two hours of troubleshooting I gave up and we headed out with an ipod and some headphones.

3 days and 800 miles later, I discovered the power wires was loose.:doah:

It works fine now. More pics when I finish the knobs, speaker boxes, and amp install. One problem I discovered is that the window opening for the screen is ok when you look at it straight-on, but from the drivers seat (up higher) you can't read what's on the screen. I may need to enlarge the opening or figure out a way to offset the display screen downward, but I'm just happy it works for now. And it stayed there the entire trip over Hells Revenge and Flat Iron Mesa.

radio install 002.jpg
 
I wish I made the connection between this thread and your truck when we were in Moab, would have liked to check it out in person. Probably would have looked at how you did the 4500 too...
 
I am actually at school down in Santa Cruz, which might be even closer then Davis. If I can get all my drive shaft and rear end stuff figured out over winter break I will probably do a weekend at hollister. Probably will do a longer trip over spring break too. It would be nice to wheel with some fullsize people for a change
 
So just to prove this part of the build isn't dead, here's a sneak peak at what the radio is soon to be connected to.

These are sealed boxes for low profile 10's rated for 250w each (1000w max). The boxes bolt on underneath the bed rail. I did this to ensure I can hose out the back and not worry about water puddling around the boxes and causing any rust or mildew problems.

For theft security reasons, I won't describe how they attach to the rail, but lets just say it's very time consuming.

Edit: the black painted box on the left was a temporary one I built for the trip to Moab. The new one (on the right) hangs from the bed rail.

Amplifier 004.jpg

Amplifier 005.jpg
 
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