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2”Lift/33’s vs 4”Lift/35’s on handling/braking

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Skidoc

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I have ‘89 Jimmy, planning on ORD lift/steering overhaul, generally going through all the mechanicals (brakes etc) to restore/update where needed and then at some point phase 2 would be engine upgrade and the necessary changes that would go along with that. Currently stock height/suspension with 31’s

The goal is a truck that will drive and handle as well as one of these trucks can (I know it will never will be like a modern driving vehicle) for mostly daily driving and ski trips on the East Coast, rare off road. I’ve driven modern (LS era) Tahoes/Burbs/GCherokees for 25 yrs and I drive them hard and fast

I researched a ton and spoke to some experienced gear heads, including a shop that exclusively restores squarebodies to break the tie btwn 2”Lift/33’s vs 4”Lift/35’s so I can place the order with ORD

There are the theoretical and practical considerations (rotating mass affects braking time, more flex in a longer sidewall decreases handling, center of gravity and it’s effects on rolling risk, re-gearing to compensate etc)

Curious if members here have noticed real world differences in handling, braking, and other unintended consequences changes sizes/lift height? Or are the differences negligible (after appropriate associated mods like regearing) and might as well pick what I want for aesthetics (which are secondary to function but always a consideration:)

Thanks!
 
I went from 4in w/35s on 17s to 3in w/33s on 15s. It drove better on the 33s, BUT I overhauled everything steering and suspension related so it's not an apple to apple comparison. I also geared it correctly for the tires. I think with good news brakes, good new tires, and good new steering components the difference will be negligible. Obviously, it will have better manners with the 33s but I don't know that the driveability differences between the two is enough to be a good deciding factor. All that being said, I really like the stance of 33s for a daily driver.
 
Negligible on driveability, that’s good to hear

I was leaning 2”Lift/33’s initially, like you also commented on the stance consideration

But if the driveability is close to the same, I’ve been kinda wanting to lean into what a K5 can be, a burly truck with a 4”Lift/35’s

I wish all my problems were this pleasant to think about!
 
2" with 33's, is your best bet. To get to 35's to handle and brake will require costly mods. 33's can use the 89 oem brakes with only a small amount of added stopping distance, where 35's should have a 2 axle brake upgrade. Tires quality will have an effect on stopping and handling. 2" lift doesn't need any steering mods, where 4" will require at least a raised steering arm. The factory sway bar can be maintained with either lift, the ORD sway bar lift corrector kit is helpful for either. If your 89 has th350 33's and 4.10 ring and pinion will work well. For a 700r4 4.56 are my recommendation. If your Jimmy is going to be loaded heavy (6k or more) you might want to consider 4.88s. There is absolutely no reason a 89 K5 with 2" and 33's can't be confidently spiritedly driven, with the suspension in good working order. and proper tires.

For driving in the snow, you'll want to update the traction device in the rear diff when re-gearing. Maybe consider add one in front.
The factory gov lock in a 10bolt is not an If it breaks, it is a When it breaks, esp with tire up size.
 
Thanks Wes, ok so to do 35’s “right”, there’s a bit more involved…

If I do 2inch lift w 33 to start but later want to go to 35s would it be sufficient to do the zero rate block to increase it to a 3 inch lift? I guess I could also do the body lift 1”, too, to get to 4”

I have the 700 R4/4L60

I wanted to do limited slips, best time to rebuild/upgrade the traction is when I regear, I presume.

I would love to do the axles at some point… big investment. I haven’t estimated the expected weight but 6000 is definitely in the realm of possibility. Especially, once I add the roll cage, hitch spare tire carrier etc
 
If you want 35's you should find a late model 12 or 14 bolt rear axle 6 on 5.5 bolt circle and rear disc brakes. Re-gear that, if it has a g80 gov loc you can run that in a 14 bolt, I am not sure about the newer 12 bolts. If no gov loc then you will want to pick a traction aid. Front axle will like need chromoly axles and better u joints. The front brakes should be adequate for 35's, again with add breaking distance. Also you should consider updating to 8 lug rear and 3/4 ton front brakes. The factory 8 lug 3/4 can be installed in place of the 6 lug on your current 10 bolt.

Should also go straight to 4" lift, zero rate might still be needed , depending on wheel size and offset. Body lift is a whole other set of mods, if you want simple reliable, I would decoupage a body lift.
With the 700r4 you will need 4.56's yes add the traction aid when re gear, the labor is the same, If you choose to re-gear w/o the traction aid, then add the traction aid later, it is like doing the gears again with same cost a second time.
My k20 burb is a heavy beast I run 700r4 33's and 4.88's, have 14bolt with gov loc, Eaton trutrac in the front dana 44.

You really should pick the lift you want now, and stick with it. Unless money is not a concern,
 
As long as you stick with the 10.5" width tires (only a couple brands made, BFG's AT KO's are the easiest to find) and stock backspaced wheels, you don't need any lift to run 33's.

Yes, if you are doing things where high centering is a concern, lift gets you more clearance, but in any sort of road/snow/mud situation, your diffs drag long before your t-case does. Differential clearance is based on tire diameter, not lift. With wider 33's and 35's you will need lift or sheet metal cutting to clear.

You could run "narrow" (same width as most 31's fwiw) 33's for a few years, if you don't like them for whatever reason, you aren't out anything but the price of tires, which wear out anyway.

I like my 33x10.5r15's. Fill up the wheel wells nicely (for some reason I don't like the visual gaps some lift/tire combos create) don't need lift which starts to get into drive line angle changes, and not so high it's terrible to get into.
 
forgot to mention if the 3/4 ton axle route is chosen you will need 16" or 17" to clear brakes. These sizes will reduce side wall flex as well.
 
Wes Harden said:
forgot to mention if the 3/4 ton axle route is chosen you will need 16" or 17" to clear brakes. These sizes will reduce side wall flex as well.
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Or grinding to fit 15’s. Many moons ago I ran 15x10’s with 3” bs on a d60 and had small amount of grinding, non structural. 4.5” bs would be painful.
 
muddybuddy said:
Or grinding to fit 15’s. Many moons ago I ran 15x10’s with 3” bs on a d60 and had small amount of grinding, non structural. 4.5” bs would be painful.
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Calling @nvrenuf - would you like to tell what you went through grinding a set of your first Dana60 calipers.
 
tarussell said:
Calling @nvrenuf - would you like to tell what you went through grinding a set of your first Dana60 calipers.
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It wasn’t mine but a friend tried to fit some 15x10 (4.5” backspace) wagon wheels on a 60, he ground off so much the caliper split the first time he moved it. :rotfl:
 
nvrenuf said:
It wasn’t mine but a friend tried to fit some 15x10 (4.5” backspace) wagon wheels on a 60, he ground off so much the caliper split the first time he moved it. :rotfl:
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I can’t recall the back spacing on your old thick Monster Wheels that were 15x12 or 14” wide that were on your old 1980 K-10 when you put your first Dana 60 in but I remember how much grinding it took you to fit those wheels.

You were damn careful of not taking anymore than what was needed.
You even put the effort and money out and bought a FORD Dana 60 thinking that the dual piston calipers would clear better ( we was wrong about that - those things were damn big! ).

Gotta admit that those heavily grinded GM calipers lasted a while until we all got older, wiser and made more money and you upgraded to some 16.5” WELD D7’s and put some virgin brake hardware back on your front D60.

Those were good times figuring out what all you could do and what was different on all the Dana 60’s without the aid of the internet.
 
Thanks all! Definitely appreciate the clarification of issues I was unaware of with the axles and 35s. I’ll have to read up on those upgrades. Also, I am beginning to learn that each “upgrade” has down the line effects requiring adjustments or more mods

I think that I will just stick to a 2inch/33s. Will require much less modification(time and $) and will be more practical for daily use getting people and stuff in and out, and fwiw I do like the 2”33 look - that white truck is incredible! The tires tuck in perfectly through all that travel

I did consider the 33x10.5s, bc I could keep my stock wheels of 15x7 and not have to buy wider wheels for the 12.5 tire. I am doing the custom springs for the ride/performance as much as the lift to fit 33x12.5’s without trimming
 
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