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2.73's were an option?

Nothing like neutering a truck for 2% MPG improvement. With 2.73 and a decent-sized tire, run 2LO in town, then shift to 2HI for the highway. Who needs OD? Or get one of those gear vendors OD units and install it backwards.
:haha:That was my thought.
 
That 84 C10 would burn the tires from a dead stop if you have it anymore than half throttle, and WOT could break them loose if you were under 20, and like I said, it had a 2.73 rear end, I pulled the cover just to sure.

It would also cruise 75-80 and only turn about 1900.

I really doubt that truck was anything special, 305 and 700R4, Q-jet with a rigged manual choke, it had at least 3 vacuum leaks I could see, had the worst exhaust leak I'd ever heard, it would diesel for a worryingly long time, and it smoked like it was going out of style.

I've said it before, it could run circles around my Blazer, with it's 305/TH400, and 3.42's.
 
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That 84 C10 would burn the tires from a dead stop if you have it anymore than half throttle, and WOT could break them loose if you were under 20, and like I said, it had a 2.73 rear end, I pulled the cover just to sure.

It would also cruise 75-80 and only turn about 1900.

I really doubt that truck was anything special, 305 and 700R4, Q-jet with a rigged manual choke, it had at least 3 vacuum leaks I could see, had the worst exhaust leak I'd ever heard, it would diesel for a worryingly long time, and it smoked like it was going out of style.

I've said it before, it could run circles around my Blazer, with it's 305/TH400, and 3.42's.
Your also talking a 27" tall tire 4 speed vs 31" 3 speed All time 4wd (assuming stock tire)
 
The C10 had metric tires that were essentially 29's, and the Blazer has a 208 and 31's, while I'm not hugely surprised, I was still surprised by just how much more ass it had.
 
FWIW

My 82 K5 Blazer has 2:73 in front & rear gm 10 bolt axles, 31" BFG tires, with a th-400 & a 350 gm 4-bolt main crate motor with Edelbrock 1406, dual exhausts on cast iron exhaust manifolds, flow master mufflers, no cats, no emissions b.s. whatsoever and I can bake the rear tires on the street. I suspect th400 has some kind of shift kit in it but IDK. My rear tranny mount is a 85 & up th400 & my build sheet says my truck came with a 700-r4. So somebody's been in it.

Would it launch better with something in the 4's or 5's ratio? Without a doubt.

If you want mileage over 10mpg on a truck without a auto tuner generally that means under a 4 ring & pinion ratio.

I don't have any trouble 4-wheeling anywhere I've attempted thus far... Mud, sand, snow.

My primary use of truck is for hunting.

I've bought a GM 14 bolt & Dana 60 kingpin for my 1 ton axle upgrade but probably won't start that project till next January. My gear's I'm considering are high 4's at minimum & 37's on the tires.
 
My '79 K5 has 2.73. Terrible on the trail and mountains. On I-70 heading up into the high country, I don't get out of 2nd gear. My '77 has 3.73. I have plans 3/4 ton frt/rr axles with 4.10 under the '79. I can't stand the 2.73s
 
Diesel is your answer. I had a 84(ish) Suburban with a 6.2 diesel, NA, 2.73 gears on 31 inch tires. 0-60 in February, but 28 mpg. 1100 miles between fill ups. Anyone converting to a Cummin 12v, Duramax, or even hot-rodding the 6.5 want those gears. Problem is finding those gears in something that's not weak-sauce.
 
The higher geared diffs that are 3:23's or under are probably stronger than any of the lower ratios,they have more teeth in contact on the ring & pinion and a larger pinion...

I think only 1/2 tons got anything under 3:23's and that ratio is the highest you can get in a 3/4 ton...most of the diesel trucks like mine had highway gearing,I was a bit surprised to see 3:73's in my '85 Suburban with a 700R4 & 6.2 factory..but I suppose the overdrive makes up for the lower geared diff..
 
I put a 2.73 posi in a drag car once. It would spin the tires a half a bock later. I don't know why they ever made gears that high. Horrible mileage.
 
"Worst" combination Chevy had in my opinion was the older full sized Impala's and trucks with a drivetrain setup like a 283,or 307,327 V8, a Powerglide 2 speed automatic,and a rear diff with 3:08's or under ratio,which was probably the most common...

The vehicles had sluggish take offs and the transmission still shifted into drive at 20 mph or so,and usually would not downshift unless you floored it,when it "lugged" in drive,the torque converter was what took the brunt of the load--amazingly few ever failed,but I bet they ran hot in hilly country!...some Powerglides in 4 and 6 cylinder cars like Nova's and Vega's were air cooled too--NO cooler!..just fins on the torque converter...

A friend had a '67 Impala "Fastback"with a 283,2 bbl, and the Powerglide trans,and 3:08 gears..got it from his grandmother,nice car too...but a dog as far as any "performance"..it accelerated adequately in normal driving conditions,got decent gas mileage,maybe 15 mpg or so,but as far as being "exciting",the car was not much fun..

That soon changed when my friend bought a wrecked '69 Camaro for parts and took the bellhousing,and 4 speed Muncie transmission from that and installed it in the Impala...took him about a month of salvage yard hunting to locate a complete clutch pedal setup for the Impala--(they swapped him even for the setup out of the Camaro!)...he found a '66 Belair with a 250 six three on the tree that had all the right parts)..

He left the original rear end in it though--the transformation was still quite impressive,the car took off like a rocket compared to before despite the tall gears,it could wind up to about 55 in first gear if you held it floored before it topped out,and could still bark the tires upshifting into second and third from a standing start...if you wound it up and dumped the clutch it would burn the tire (no posi!) for about 200 feet until the car caught up with the tire speed...

I remember him telling me he took Grandma for a ride in it after the conversion ,and she was quite horrified when he booted it to get on the highway..:rotfl:...
 

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