What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

2 fuel pumps?

I think that was the intention of this one, however I won't miss the annoying buzzing . I've had real good luck with mechanical pumps over the years. I think if I were to go electric with the carb I'd put an in tank TBI pump in and run a regulator
 
Well if the line wants to collapse, it's obvious that pushing fuel from behind will work better than sucking it from the front. It seems like the simpler the fuel system, the better. The more leak points you have, the more likely the leaks.
 
I was thinking maybe I should see if it was just the fuel line and not the pump and replumb the electrical pump with new line and see if the mechanical will pull through it now. Then I would have a backup...

I'm a little fried on the whole thing tho. I'll think about it. I've never really felt I've needed a backup fuel pump. And if so, I could just carry a spare mechanical one...
 
I've always liked the idea of a backup pump, but you can't really be confident that you can (a) suck routinely through the spare, or (b) push through the busted mechanical. With an in-tank pump, I'm not sure if you could plan on sucking fuel through the busted one either.

Changing a mechanical pump on the trail would not be fun. I know people do much worse jobs, but I've always found installing those kind of frustrating. Keeping a spare electric pump on hand and then plumbing it in-line doesn't sound so bad to me though. For TBI you'd be good to go with that. With a carb, you'd probably want to run a new length of hose right to the carb and bypass the mechanical pump.

FWIW, the Carter pumps will self prime like champs, but the Ford boost pumps that some people use will not suck air, at least in my experience.
 
Fuel pump specs

I think my fuel pump crapped out again. Got gas and the engine started sputtering real bad and saw that I only had 7psi at the gauge under the hood. However before I go buy a pump are there any tests for ohm readings or voltage I can do at the harness by the tank to verify 100% just incase there is a wiring issue?

Thanks
 
You can use a test light to check for 12V at the tank connector..

A friend who replaces a lot of electric fuel pumps without first checking fuses and for bad wires like he should because so often ,the pump WAS bad and he felt "testing" was a waste of time--but recently started to diagnose things before dropping the tank..after finding out the new pump wouldn't work ,or for very long..and the new one cant be returned,nor can the customer be expected to pay for something not needed..

He found out the hard way using a voltmeter or LED test lamp can throw you off--the LED light will light up or it'll show 12V on the meter--but there wasn't enough amperage passing thru the gangrene wire to run the pump!..he now uses a sealed beam headlamp as a test lamp--often on GM's the power wire lets voltage pass thru it awhile,but when its under a load it'll heat up and the voltage drops or the power goes dead completely...the wire gets green and has so much resistance it wont pass enough current to work the pump..

Thats not good when you want the problem to be fixed for GOOD,comebacks suck!..the headlamp puts enough of a load on the wire to see if it'll allow enough amps to flow to run the pump "right" and reliably.I've watched him test a few and often the light glows bright for up to a minute or two,then goes dimmer,and sometimes out completely!..

.he has to run new wires on a lot of GM vehicles and others too..the new GM pumps often come with a new plug for the wires and the warranty is void if you dont use it..the wire itself should be replaced if it is suspect or corroded also..
 
Oh course I go to get ready to work on the truck and I try cranking it and it starts right up. Fuel pressure gauge is now bouncing around 10-11. Think that's a little low?
 
I put a voltage meter on the connector going toward the tank and I was only getting 8-9 volts. If I wanted to bypass everything like the linked post do I connect from the batter to each on the leads going into the tank harness or just one?
 
Gray wire gets 12v, ground is the gas tank itself since it's electrically isolated (hence the ground strap to the tank). You'll need to scuff a shiny part on the tank to get to solid bare metal, preferably the middle of the tank when the lip is. The purple wire on the harness is for the sending unit that goes to the fuel gauge - don't connect anything to that.
 
I put 12 volts directly to the pump. Barely got 7 psi Pretty confident it's the pump. Got a new one put forgot the strainer. Hopefully they have one in stock so I can test the new pump tonight
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom