CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

2" lift

nice classic rim choice my man :waytogo: and the solid white bfg for the win .

tuff country is a super good off the shelf brand we like here other than full custom packs built and sold threw off road design a solid vendor here on ck5 .

remember rough country ride like the name . . . stay away .
 
nice classic rim choice my man :waytogo: and the solid white bfg for the win .

tuff country is a super good off the shelf brand we like here other than full custom packs built and sold threw off road design a solid vendor here on ck5 .

remember rough country ride like the name . . . stay away .
Will look into off road design. I just put tires on yesterday I think it's the boost I needed to get started on project!
 
I will tell you that I had Tuff Country on my '70 K10, and I also have a big block which is more weight than Tuff Country designs for. They told me this when I bought them.
This vintage of trucks have shorter front springs than the '73 and up trucks. They are more likely to ride stiff from my experience. My Dad's old '72 K10 was the same, stiff.
I finally took mine off and bought springs from ORD. That made a huge difference in the ride AND my attitude towards my truck. Keep in mind that they are more money than the big company lift "kits" but I won't ever buy that junk again.
I don't feel that it's worth the misery of having a truck that looks good, but I hate to drive. Some may call me old, but if you experience the difference, it will change your mind.
I also tried the adjustable Rancho shocks first, and then Bilstiens, neither could help my disappointment.
Now I just kept the Bilstiens with the ORD springs, much better.
 
Do not buy superlift. I've got them in my 79, in the 2.5, or 3 inch lift variety, and they're way stiff. They were cheap, but hopefully they're better after the big block. Load range E 285's at 50-55 PSI probably arent helping either.
 
I will tell you that I had Tuff Country on my '70 K10, and I also have a big block which is more weight than Tuff Country designs for. They told me this when I bought them.
This vintage of trucks have shorter front springs than the '73 and up trucks. They are more likely to ride stiff from my experience. My Dad's old '72 K10 was the same, stiff.
I finally took mine off and bought springs from ORD. That made a huge difference in the ride AND my attitude towards my truck. Keep in mind that they are more money than the big company lift "kits" but I won't ever buy that junk again.
I don't feel that it's worth the misery of having a truck that looks good, but I hate to drive. Some may call me old, but if you experience the difference, it will change your mind.
I also tried the adjustable Rancho shocks first, and then Bilstiens, neither could help my disappointment.
Now I just kept the Bilstiens with the ORD springs, much better.
That's good to know about tuff country because that was on my list. I am building this to drive not for off road. Will look into ORD and see if it's a option. Thanks
 
Do not buy superlift. I've got them in my 79, in the 2.5, or 3 inch lift variety, and they're way stiff. They were cheap, but hopefully they're better after the big block. Load range E 285's at 50-55 PSI probably arent helping either.
Thanks for input not looking for anything stiff riding!
 
That's good to know about tuff country because that was on my list. I am building this to drive not for off road. Will look into ORD and see if it's a option. Thanks
Well what I found out is that some roads can make you feel like being off road. And a nice suspension will help the ride all the way around. My old springs were 3 thick leaves per side, now I have 9 thin leaves per side.
I have found guys on here who like the Tuff Country and had them on a '73 and up truck. The extra length of the square body springs does make a difference, however I still believe that good spring design has the most influence.
I think that you should call ORD just to ask what they suggest. You would have a better idea of which way to go. They have played with full size trucks for years, and test what they sell with their own trucks. There may be a possibility of using their HD shackles and a Zero rate, (their product) to get close to the lift that you want. I believe that would net you 1.5" of lift, and with new bushings in the original springs, maybe it would be the desired result. That is if your springs are in usable condition.

15511455219155792926214502269733.jpg

15511457846272148337248963980288.jpg
 
Well what I found out is that some roads can make you feel like being off road. And a nice suspension will help the ride all the way around. My old springs were 3 thick leaves per side, now I have 9 thin leaves per side.
I have found guys on here who like the Tuff Country and had them on a '73 and up truck. The extra length of the square body springs does make a difference, however I still believe that good spring design has the most influence.
I think that you should call ORD just to ask what they suggest. You would have a better idea of which way to go. They have played with full size trucks for years, and test what they sell with their own trucks. There may be a possibility of using their HD shackles and a Zero rate, (their product) to get close to the lift that you want. I believe that would net you 1.5" of lift, and with new bushings in the original springs, maybe it would be the desired result. That is if your springs are in usable condition.

View attachment 296062

View attachment 296063
I think springs on mine are in pretty good shape. What did you do on the rear to get the height to match front?
 
Well what I found out is that some roads can make you feel like being off road. And a nice suspension will help the ride all the way around. My old springs were 3 thick leaves per side, now I have 9 thin leaves per side.
I have found guys on here who like the Tuff Country and had them on a '73 and up truck. The extra length of the square body springs does make a difference, however I still believe that good spring design has the most influence.
I think that you should call ORD just to ask what they suggest. You would have a better idea of which way to go. They have played with full size trucks for years, and test what they sell with their own trucks. There may be a possibility of using their HD shackles and a Zero rate, (their product) to get close to the lift that you want. I believe that would net you 1.5" of lift, and with new bushings in the original springs, maybe it would be the desired result. That is if your springs are in usable condition.

View attachment 296062

View attachment 296063
Also I need to keep in mind that I am planning on putting a big block in it.
 
The rear of my truck is some stiff springs that were purchased before I knew better. I plan to change them whenever I get done with my '90 Jimmy.
On the rear of a K5, I would plan on 1" more than the front because there usually seems to be more weight ends up back there than planned.
If you are planning on a big block, it may be better to plan on custom springs. That is, of course, my opinion, but I believe that the stock ones will probably come down with the increase in weight. Remember that the factory never put a big block in a K5 or any 4x4 back then. And also think about if you are going to have a heavy bumper or a winch, those could be a factor, too.
Now that you tell me that, I have to ask if you know that the firewall won't clear a fat block in the factory engine position. And you won't be able to move it forward with such a short lift. I modified my firewall a decent amount to clear mine without a body lift. I have heard and seen that a 3" body lift is required to clear the left head without modifying the firewall. I don't care for a body lift that tall, so I cut and made the extra space since mine was a ground up build. Obviously you could do that as well since yours is not together.
I can probably get pictures of my truck, and hopefully it would be possible for you to see what I did, at least on the driver side, the passenger side is basically invisible, since I did a "T" cut and stretched it back away from the engine. It took me several fittings of the cab to get it where I wanted. I have seen several trucks that they merely used a sledgehammer... my distributor cleared even when a had an HEI. ( large cap) Others have had problems there, it just seems to depend on how the body sits on the frame. I saw a '72 K5 which wouldn't clear HEI in the factory small block.

So I hope that I am not scaring you about your project, since I have no idea of your skills, budget or time expectations. But in all of my years, I have found guys who thought that the '67-'72 trucks could swap parts just as easy as the '73 and up trucks. Just because the 2wd ones had factory big blocks, some don't give thought to the engine position vs a 4x4.

I would rather share something that you may already know than let a guy find out the hard way.

I guess that I should have looked at your screen name to catch the "BB" .
:haha: :waytogo:
 
Oh, and I figured that it was better for me to blab about stuff here than in your build thread.. less clutter in there this way.
 
Oh, and I figured that it was better for me to blab about stuff here than in your build thread.. less clutter in there this way.
Thanks for the input. I new they did not put a big block in them but not sure I new how much modification it would take. I guess I will cross that road when I get there. I have a buddy putting a big block in a 72 Jimmy right now. Maybe I'll use him as a Ginny pig! LOL. As far as skill I have someone lined up to tig patch panels in I think we're can modify about anything if needed. Time frame is years because it will take a lot of money and I want to do it right. Your input is greatly appreciated don't think at all that you are rambling on. I appreciate for help. This is why I joined the web sight. Thanks again!
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom