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2 stroke question *Update post 10*

85 Jimmy

85 Jimmy

Sheepdog
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My dad has a 1970 Kawasaki F5 with a 350cc bighorn 2 stroke, 21 years ago he was riding it around for fun and broke the throttle cable. Well 21 years ago he couldn't find a new throttle cable so he put it in his moms garage and it has sat in that same spot since. A few years ago while I was visiting my grandmother I decided to pull the spark plug, put alittle oil in the cylinder and turn the motor over a few times, then put alittle more oil in the cylinder just to make sure it hadn't and shouldn't have siezed engine.
Thanks to the powers of the internet I've found a throttle cable for it, so when I go to Virginia where the bike is I'm going to put the throttle cable on and I also planned to rebuild the carb. After replacing the old fuel and oil is there anything else I should do before trying to crank it up? I don't really deal with 2 strokes, so I'm just trying to make sure I don't need to replace anything else after it has sat for 21 years.
 
prob do a comp test to verify the crank seals arnt dryed out and not holding compression.

otherwise sounds like you got it under control.

32:1 oil mix be good for that old girl with bare min prem pump gas if not a good race gas . as pump gas now is not as potent as back then.

also get reg old dino oil for the 2 stroke mix. NOT full synthetic as its not jetted for that. if you switch to synthetic oil and race gas you need to rejet or it can fry the motor.

also grab a few new spark plugs.

have fun otherwise.

i had my 87 suzuki quadracer ( quadzilla ) 4wheeler sitting for over 5 years and flushed out the old stuff and cleaned the carbs out and she fired right up with fresh fluids.

oh ya also grab a set of cutting tourch head/tip cleaners. thay come in handy for cleaning the tiny holes in the jets. just DONT over use or crap the cleaner down the holes in the jets or thay will be no good as the file part will open the brass up .
 
I normally poke the jet holes with a wire brush, normally does it.
If it's possible to drain the block (normally not so with a 2 stroke) you could dump some cheap gas through the engine to help clean it out some before start up. I've done that before on engines on the bench.

I like Sweet's idea on checking the seals and gaskets. Worse thing for a 2 stroke is a leak some place. Make sure that when you do start it, you have some way to kill it immediately (kill switch and dump clutch) in case the RPMs start to walk away from you.
 
most 2 strokes have a crank chamber drain plug near the bottom of the motor to drain from the cylinder chamber area.

and if you wana flush the chamber out rubbing alchol will work good. just get as close to 100% as possible. old mechanic buddy told me this years ago for rinsing out 2 stroke i had with blown head gasket and coolent got in bottom when sitting.

and gear case oil section is other drain and fill plug on 2 stroke.
 
I ordered a service manual for it yesterday (a kawasaki one, not a generic clymer) so after I read through it I might go ahead and replace all the seals so I don't have to worry about burning a hole in the piston.
The problem is the bike is in Virginia and I'm in Mississippi, I'm going there around christmas, so that's when I'll work on it. I might try to convince the wife to let me bring it back down with me. I guess that means I have to get rid of my parts truck and my old daily driver (93 yota pickup)...
 
not sayin you cant do it but i would just see if she will even fire first.

and as to draging it home its better to ask forgivness than ask permision so i have read. :whistle:
 
sweetk30 said:
and as to draging it home its better to ask forgivness than ask permision so i have read. :whistle:
Click to expand...

Normally when I get something I know I'm "not supposed to have" I just act like I've had it forever and she just never noticed it. It'll be hard to sneak this one home since she'll be with me, I'm sure she'll notice it in the back of the truck.
 
The deal:
if you can get it started or at least thinking about starting....you can bring it home.

this way it doesn't appear to be something that will sit for ever or just be another project :)
 
Well, here's an update I went to Virginia where the bike was, did everything I said I was going to do and when I was going through the carb I noticed the jet needle in the carb wasn't there so I ordered it and when I got home installed it. Here's a video of it running

http://youtu.be/22zIjswvXp8

It ran just like the video the first crank, so it seems to be in good shape after sitting for 20+ years. Sine the video I adjusted the throttle cable and it doesn't die if you're not giving it gas now. I need to fix the tach now to make sure it's idleing right.
 
thats sweet man.

run good top grade fuel in it.

and if you can and got time swap to race gas and rejet the carb to run it correctly. the power and running will be even better.

my quadzilla 4 wheeler i swaped to vp c-12 mix 108 leaded race gas . that thing has never run that good or started so easy.

duncan racing hooked me up with parts and tuning help. thay said 2 strokes should be highest oct you can get as you will never hear the ping ping ping ( pre ignition ) over the ting ting ting ( 2 stroke sound ) on cheep gas. fast easy way to pop a pistion on 2 stroke with cheep gas.

and that thing look killer for age. :thumb:
 
I haven't gotten on it too much, but it is quick. My dad used to race it and he said it has a milled out rotary valve, the exhaust which is basically an expansion chamber with a lawnmower muffler hose clamped to the end, and it has the biggest jets they made in the carb. He said he'd smoke anything in the under 350cc class (it's technically 346cc), and he'd give the guys in the big class, (he said it was 350cc and up) a run for their money.

I'm not running the high octane stuff yet, just the low grade stuff I had in my gas can. I've ordered a tach cable, tires and tubes (it still has the originals from 1970 on it.), fork seals, bearings and seals for the front and rear wheels, a battery, and a helmet.

I'm waiting on my dad to find the title for it, although I'd really like to keep the original and have him just file for a lost title in Virginia and send it to me. The only issue with that is that I looked on Virginia's DMV website and it says you need to bring in the registration, well I can garuntee that he can't find the registration for it, so we'll see what happens.

Today I'm probably going to go to my DMV and take the test for a motorcycle permit. I've taken alot of the online practice tests and so far they're pretty easy.

Oh, thanks for the compliments on the looks. My dad bought it new in 70 or 71 and took really good care of it. It has been kept in a garage that the door only opens to get the lawnmower out to cut the grass, and just recently they stopped using that lawnmower and someone trailers theirs to cut the grass, so the door never opens. I hope I can clean it up and make it look new. I feel bad b/c now I keep it on the other side of my shed under a tarp...
 
Another update...
This might make it easier, when I refer to a number it's on this picture. My 30 in the bottom of the picture is the 16014-011
Image.gif


I've been riding the bike around the yard and it started fouling out the plug. When I adjusted the idle the first time I was a retard and just adjusted the cable at the handle before it splits off to the carb and oil pump. That was keeping the throttle open and the oil pump pumping too much oil in. Now I have it adjusted so 13 is closed and the oil pump is lined up with the marks on it. I checked 30 (pilot adjustment screw) and it was turned almost all the way in, so I turned it out 1 1/4 turn. Now when after I kick it till my leg is tired it'll just pop and occasionally run for about 5-10 seconds and then act like it's out of fuel and die. Oh and I have 12 (jet needle) in the middle position. I've tried adjusting that and it acts the same.
It would be way easier to have a way to turn the motor over without kicking it.

Any suggestions? I'm about to just give up and load it up in the truck and bring it to a shop...:doah:
 
Ok, so last night I tore the carb back down and boiled the carb and all the jets. Today I reassembled everything and put it back on, I also threw a hotter plug in it (a B6HS and it takes a B10HS), I don't plan to run the hot plug forever, just long enough to burn all the old oil out and if there's a chance of there being any old oil in the intake. It'll run now, but the throttle valve has to be atleast an 1/8th of the way open, it won't run with it closed. I tried to adjust the throttle stop like the book says and it didn't do anything, no change at all if I turn it all the way in or back it all the way out. (The book says the throttle stop is what adjusts the idle).

I don't have a helmet, I'll get it in Monday, so I can't open it up on the street yet. But it seems to run fine with the throttle adjusted to stay alittle open. I really want to fix this myself.

Oh, after I ran the hot pulg then switched back to the other plug it'll run, but I didn't run it for long.

I did read the link you posted (sweetk30). After I get it idleing the way it's supposed to I'll reference it for tuning it.

Thanks for any help
 
Oh,and in the picture I posted before what is #30 in 16014-006 on the bottom? I have a jet there like the main jet, not one like that with a spring behind it...
 
when i clean carbs on these small bikes/atv's and such i use a set of tourch tip cleaners to clean out the real fine holes in the jets.

seen lots of bikes not idel at all and find slug of crap in the slow idel jet. cleaner wont get it out had to pop it out with the tourch tip cleaner.

but dont go crazy or ou can file out the hole in the jet with the cleaners. also good compressed air will help blow out also just hold on tight or say good bye to the jet. :doah:
 
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