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2 wheel peel / rebirth of a short bed c-10

warning on dirty dingo welds and customer service : http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299192
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then i got home and found this usps flat rate box in my door step with dirty dingo parts

2wd c-10 -30 motor adaptor mounts

ls car h20 pump spacers to truck setup to give coolent air bleader hose a place to go. and gives a 90* out upper hose to rad to clear later mods for bigger intake.

then ideler relocation bracket and correct legth belt for new position . this also helps clear intake and upper hose new position.

h20 / bracket / belt will be used later when i mod the motor a bit.

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got a line on a box from the south and got to go see it and prob bring home . here few pics he sent me so far.

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wow what a day today.

took stock 5.3 harnness and blew it up bigtime.

started at work but boss took laptop home over weekend . so had to bring home and use my queen size bed with extra sheet to keep clean from dirt on harnness.

had computer here next to me step by step from info and COLOR pics here http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

all i have to do is finish out the few ends of 12 volt batt and 12 volt key hot . then tie in few other ends to stock truck side and be good to go.

need reflash on pcm to eliminate all the stuff removed and vats security also.

this was 5-6 hr stright job for first time ever . next one will be lot better. dont let this turn you away from modifying a stock harnness ever. stupid easy if you go slow and steady with full roll of tape to keep it all in stock layout.

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Looking good...:waytogo:

When the time comes if I have any questions would you be of some assistance?
 
well ran my wires up to the back of the harnnes / intake area for the ones that go in the cab. tcc brake switch / cruise cut out / cruise on/off / accell crusie / coast cruise / tac signal / 4k speedo / purple trigger for starter / prob 1 -22 more i forgot about at this time. ( tac signal factory set 4 cyl mode can be reflashed to 4-6-8 )

then i soldered up the extensions for these wires that only drop out of the computer stock and go to fuse box / dist box .

also installed the fuse block i had on hand from junk yard run 1 day . 6 mini blade fuses holder. so i did tranny 3 / left bank coil's & inj's / right bank coil's & inj's / fuel pump feed / 2 batt const / 2 comp key hot & mass air-iat & o2 heaters.

going to also do 2 electric fan's setup ( windstar ) so the 2 wires out for relay triggers ( grd triggers )

also sent up to the cab my 3 wires from tranny mounted park/n/reverse switch so i dont need the stock in cab one.

looks kind of worse now that it's modifyed but its a lot better flow to the cab area instead of out in the open fender area. took a little bit more time but should be worth it in the end.

i did get a driverside batt tray from member here for driver side battery now as 03 wiring for 5.3 has it all on the left so why not keep it clean. right side will become air box spot now.

will say first one kicked my but but if ( WHEN ) i do another one it will be much fester as i know what i am doing now. :whistle:

pic #1 = comp plugs electric / throttle just above them / new fuse box lower / and fan triggers and fuel trigger left / then main body to motor left side.

pic #2 = left / odd bank coil plug and 4 injector's

pic #3 = left side elctric throtle body plug / middle crank sensor starter trigger block ground / just above on the middle is coolent temp.

pic #4 = right / even bank coil plug and 4 injector's

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few more to finish day's work out.

pic #1 = tranny switch for park / n / reverse / then tranny main plug with little plug kind of hiding for vss / and upper center is driver side up stream o2.

pic #2 = pass side up stream o2 top center / with intake air temp - mass air flow plug.

pic #3 = big bundle to go in cab area for all the stuff listed in last post first pargh info.

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got the frame repair kit today from fellow member today . he had it and never used it so i grabed it up. got to fix the steering box area and weld the plate on.

also ordered my full energy suspension master mount / bushing kit today . every thing on the truck with motor mounts extra as not with kit.


then for the look i want and tire size i am going down in the weeds 2.5" front and drop shackle in rear for 2"

plan is 255/60/15 front and 275/60/15 rear not 100% on size yet.
 
wow :eek1::doah::popcorn:

what a day . got buddys van to run and getthe box 2 hr north of me. then friend didnt get his trailer back so i couldnt go . but last min i got a 3 place motor cycle trailer and used 4 bald 31" tires to space the box up off the bed to JUST clear the fenders on the trailer. and the box was loaded upside down.

then on the way home found out i had no tail lights on trailer. but brake and turn's worked. so said screw it and drove home in the dark 1.5hr's on highway . real light traffic and got lucky no cops.

new to me box has 1 small little rust spot in 1 wheel spot down on bottom were the fancy aftermarket chrome patches were installed. a LOT better and faster to fix than the box on the truck.

parts are coming in now to get this truck rollin . and big weekend i will be on it. :thumb:
 
got big parts drop today from big brown truck .

boy do i have a list to do this weekend.

hope to make a big dent in the project.
 
did a water pump mod yesterday .

this is for the bleader hose for the heads and heated throttle body . if not running newer remote coolent tank.

comon problem with these motors is water pump gaskets leaking at the block. so when i had the pump pulled i drilled / taped the front port for the water hose.

then washed out the pump in the sink threw the 2 sets of holes were it flows to the block and out the upper hose . this was to get any shavings out . then bolted back up with 2 new fel pro gaskets to block.

1/8 pipe thread 90* barb fitting / teflon tape / and installed. next to get length of molded hose to conect the 2 ports ( my 2 fingers marking them )

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REAL BUSY DAY on the 2wd .

striped old rotted cab off and also the box.

then took off the carb style tank to later be reused on pass side for extra fuel with transfer pump. then left side will be primary tank thats new tbi tank with 96-97 vortec truck pump for correct psi .

few pics of the frame all striped and ready to go to media blaster for strip down. then chassie black paint when it returns.

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had to fix the left front frame rail from prev fender bender it was twisted about 5*to the outside at the top and also 3/4" out to the outside spread. even had a section of the rail bent in were the outer bumper brace bolts to the frame. last pic.

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made a few simple jugs to pull the frame back in place.

took 5/8" threaded rod and few HUGE flat washers and made a pulling device . and it worked perfectly. also added extra one up were frame was still within spec to keep it from twisting were i DIDNT need it to.

heated the bent in section with rose bud head on oxy/acy tourch and hammered it back basicly flat . that got the twist out of it .

next i chained the pass side rail to the lift post so it wouldnt move. then i pulled the left rail over about 3" past the 28" frame spec for width. took big hammer and hit it in a few places and let the tension off and it come in at 27 3/4" wide and with in spec if you ask me .

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when all done we had the frame set like this . figure this be close for what it is .

just need to make a new crosmember to hold the brake valve and built in steering box brace.

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then i drilled out the end's of the cracks for the steering box section brake and the section just above the crossmember . cut the cracks out and welded them up with the big lincoln 215 power mig .

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since i didnt wana strip down the WHOLE front end from the frame rails i made a patch for the frame section to fish plate it and also sandwich the 1 front bolt of 3 that holds the cross member to the frame rail.

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then the big job of welding on the frame repair plate to brace / fix the steering box area. i had to trim down the lower rear tab was real close to the brake hose hole.

also the 2wd frame is a little diffrent so i trimed down the lower plate to match the bottom and welded it on .

going to go back over to the shop and pressure wash it so there is no slime / grease on it for the media blaster guy .

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So was the front crossmember missing or did you take it off because it was rusted?
If you want one I have one or two clean available for sale.:D
 

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