CK5
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2 wheel peel / rebirth of a short bed c-10

and fyi the dirty dingo mounts KICK A$$

drop in on stock and lots of adjustment. right now i am 95% forward the most. i think i can go about 1.5 back from stock with just clearing the firewall.

and there setup for 1" forward and 2" back adjustment.

even in the 1" forward it still clears the 2wd crossmember on the 4wd truck pan .

will get some pic's monday to show it off.
 
You're really getting after this thing! Nice work man. I'm anxious to see the finished product:waytogo:
 
thanks guys.

got to get done if its going to be my dd use truck anytime soon.

also needs primer and paint so blasting it was for 2 reasons. clean up and motivate me to paint it or it would be solid rust bucket. :doah:

i have done a few of these trucks and its easy to me . just first ls motor swap . but its easy so far with few mods needed.
 
Looking good bret, its coming along nicely.:waytogo: Let me know how the tune works out for you...thats a good deal.
 
got the motor set today in position i liked. its back more than stock but not all the way or firewall mods just a little would need to be done.

at this point i had to dent in the tranny dip stick tube just a hair to help clear the pinch weld on the firewall. otherwise i can just get my fingers around the motor and firewall.

i can also get my hand and fingers up in and around the oil pan and crossmember area. didnt rub before motor set back with it all the way forward tho that was good if needed to stay.

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few more to show how good it fits in the older truck .

and tranny has pleanty of room also hand just about all the way around between floor and top of case.

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left side truck manifold inplace after motor in .

then take down pipe and cut off pipe around 1" or more from flange.

then take and flip pipe end for end. then set flange back up on manifold. test fit pipe and mark 2 points of refrence and remove .

tack weld the pipe back on . retest fit to make sure all clears.

weld it up and finish the exaust.

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the o2 still points up and out of the way perfectly .

and lots of room to stay away from stuff.

just clears the frame rail with room to spare.

and pass side needs tiny round off of frame rail to make sure manifold dont rub.

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big score tonight. :thumb:

craigslist fresh pickin's :bow:

1991 2wd 1/2 ton burban 20k miles orignal. storage for 20 years after front end smash so bad folded frame all the way back to tranny crossmember and even the 2wd front cross member a bit.

scored the 4 doors non power options and also the 1/2 ton hydro boost as it was a 6.2 700r4 orignal. since all my truck are ton with hydro boost i figured why the heck not grab the hydro boost so thay all feel the same and even get better performance in the end.

best part PRIMO NO CRACKS dash pad. :eek1:

rear bumper going back for sat as it's what i need for this truck minus diffrent brackets . but lmc has a master bracket kit for what i need with bolts. checked the part #'s and same bumper if truck is non step bumper.

also got cab back off my truck today and frame up on lift with front suspension 1/2 off and full rear out.

going to move front hangers up 2" for drop in rear and also get the whole front end ready for paint and new energy suspension bushing kit. and new 2.5" drop spindles.
 
well didnt like the 7" long shackles in the back so thay will be replaced with 5" thats 1" over stock.

also still wanted the truck down total of 3" or so in the rear so i did the cheep way out but vary safe and works.

poped off the rivits for the front hangers on the rear springs and moved the hangers up 2" and redrilled the holes . just got to fill in the extra holes and cut off top extra so it dont rub the box.

this and 1" longer shackle should get me about were i wana be in the 2.5" - 3" drop range.

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then i finished removing the whole front end suspension parts and getting the parts bare and ready to blast up clean .

old upper a-arm's not going back on. got much better used ones coming from meber here .

also removed the old rubber control arm bushings to be ready for the new energy suspension bushing kit.

got the 2.5" drop spindles ready also to be installed when the parts are ready to go back on .

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got back after dinner tonight and finished up the mods to the hangers and got the hole's drilled out ready to go get new 7/16 grd 8 with hardened washers and metal crimp nuts NOT nylock or lockwashers.

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forgot pic';s till shop lights were off. so flash light was used but you get the idea.

basicly almost a stock look .

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got some small's painted up this past friday and dryed over the weekend.

motor mount shells and frame brackets.

loaded them up with new energy suspension motor mount's and got them bolted up and ready to drop on the frame when its painted hope by end of week if i am lucky with the way work is going. :doah:

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forgot i got the 20mm x 1.50 pitch metric drain plug the otherday .

then i modifyed it for a temp sendor hole by drilling the center out and tapping it to 1/8" pipe thread and then over size drilling the back side of the plug just a bit for more room for oil to sit on sender in the plug.

cost me just under 5 bucks for the plug with gasket.

and mabye 10 min of my time to modify over the otherguys prices of around 25-30 + s&H

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half ass mock up the other day i forgot about and made me rethink my rear end drop setup.

this is why i decided to raise the front hangers for the rear springs 2" and get longer shackles over stock but shorter than bolt in drop shackles.

the bolt in drop ones kicked the pinion off way to much and also hit the cross member in the box real bad and whould have to basicly open up the floor of the box to fix it. not going to happen on my watch so i did the above posted pics and moved the hangers up 2"

that pic is 100% empty cab / full box / motor & trans only and 235/70/15 frt and 32x11.50x15 rears on all stock suspension other than bolt in drop shackles . thats why box is off and raised in the back.

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