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2004 K1500 lift?

Copasetic

1/2 ton status
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Mar 9, 2007
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Martinez, GA
OK guys I need some advice, opinions, tuff love, whatever you've got. I bought a 2004 Chevy K1500 crew cab about a month ago. I bought a set of reindexed torsion keys for it and want to lilft the rear to match the front. I haven't installed the keys yet but know the truck will sit about level as the keys call for 1-3" of lift. I still want a slight rake though.

I looked under the rear of the truck and seems to me that they have a block from the factory. Now don't flame me too bad but if I were to install a 2" block out back, would I need to remove the factory one? I don't know how the stock block is installed. I know I've seen Ferds with a lift block on top of the factory block so would the same apply?

Would I be better off getting an add a leaf put in or even a lift shackle for the rear? I plan on running close to a 33" tire and don't want it to rub anywhere when I go over a curb or a speed bump. :rolleyes: I'm also about to remove the 1" zero rates from my K5 so that may also be an option to think about. Thanks for the input in advance fellas! :bow:
 
The keys are really only necessary if you don't have enough bolt showing through the stock keys. Despite what some TV shows and mags have said, cranking the bolts or swapping the keys ride just the same. The choppy ride comes from short shocks and/or hitting top stops. I don't remember seeing a block on those stock, but I would recommend an add-a-leaf more than a block anyway. You might even be able to do a 2.5" shackle flip, but I haven't checked into it for those years and it might be too tall for your goals. Last, I run 285/75/r16s on my '05 K2500HD, and all I did was crank the front up about 1.5". It has never rubbed at all and didn't need trimming.:D
 
Well if the difference in ride isn't noticable I reckon I'll crank the t bars down first and go from there. I may end up putting my zero rate, that I'm about to take out of my K5, in the rear if I think I need it. Thanks for the input!
 
BTW, mine went up 1/4" for each full turn on the t-bars, but it's a 2500, so not sure how much you need to go. Also, jack up the center of the truck and let wheels hang while you adjust it, otherwise you risk stripping threads by turning it under full load.
 
BTW, mine went up 1/4" for each full turn on the t-bars, but it's a 2500, so not sure how much you need to go. Also, jack up the center of the truck and let wheels hang while you adjust it, otherwise you risk stripping threads by turning it under full load.
Yeah I read about letting the wheels hang with no load on them for that reason. I was under it the other day just looking around and I have quite a bit to go before I run out of threads. I'll be sure to post up my findings. :waytogo:
 
Does it have the Z71 package? If so I know part of that is a slight lift, so that's where your stock rear block could have come from... honestly I'd measure and crunch some numbers... I bet you could fit 33's as is. Slight crank up front (maybe have to trim the lower front bumper) and out back you'll probably be ok...
 
Does it have the Z71 package? If so I know part of that is a slight lift, so that's where your stock rear block could have come from... honestly I'd measure and crunch some numbers... I bet you could fit 33's as is. Slight crank up front (maybe have to trim the lower front bumper) and out back you'll probably be ok...
Yeah it's a Z71. I tried out a 33x12.50 on a 15x10 wheel and the tire would rub the front air dam when turning. I really don't want to trim it and seeing those wheels on there I'm really leaning toward an 8" or so wide wheel. I have a set of H2's I want to use and I found some adapters to make them work. I figure it wouldn't be any different than the duallys with 8 lug to 10 lug adapters to be able to run semi truck tires and wheels. It'll look like a 2500 then. :D I think I'm going to crank the t bars down first then see how it rides. If it's too stiff I'll put in the reindexed keys. Here's a pic of the 33 on it.
33s2.jpg
 
If you take your time trimming can look so good people won't even notice... it's VERY common for new body style guys (meaning '88 to present) to have to trim that little corner off the lower front bumper...
I'm running 33/12.50's on my 1 ton with a 3" BL and I had to trim a little...
 
Does it have the Z71 package? If so I know part of that is a slight lift, so that's where your stock rear block could have come from... ...

There is no lift on a Z71 equipped truck versus a regular 4x4......

Only thing Z71 means is Bilstein shocks, skid plates, G80, some stickers, and on the new models 265's
 
Well I cranked my t bars up tonight and measured everything out. The passenger side has no more threads on the adjuster bolt but the driver's side still has some threads. I took before and after measurements just to be sure. Dropped it down drove it around about 7 or 8 miles and I've got the exact height on both sides. I got 1 1/4" out of it total and it did help level it out. I'll measure again in a day or so to give it time to settle in. I think I still may put the new keys in.
 
A friend of mine has a 2006 1500 with 33's but he also has the 6" BDS lift. Didn't know you could get enough lift to clear 33's but cranking the torsion bars on the new chevys :dunno:

Only problem i saw of crankin the t-bars is when you put it in 4wd. Atleast that was the case on my stepdads old 88. It went all over the place

Heres a pic of my friends truck for reference

 
There is no lift on a Z71 equipped truck versus a regular 4x4......

Only thing Z71 means is Bilstein shocks, skid plates, G80, some stickers, and on the new models 265's

Really? I knew it had the stuff listed above but I thought they also sat level...

Nope, you were right... after further research the Z71 package on "new" trucks ('00+) consists of...


1.81" (46 mm) shocks, off-road jounce bumpers, 34mm front stabilizer bar, high capacity air cleaner, heavy-duty automatic locking rear differential (aka G80), and a Skid Plate Package...
Skid Plate Package includes: frame-mounted shields, front underbody shield starting behind front bumper and running to first cross-member, protecting front underbody, oil pan, differential case and transfer case
 
really? I Knew It Had The Stuff Listed Above But I Thought They Also Sat Level...

Nope, You Were Right... After Further Research The Z71 Package On "new" Trucks ('00+) Consists Of...


1.81" (46 Mm) Shocks, Off-road Jounce Bumpers, 34mm Front Stabilizer Bar, High Capacity Air Cleaner, heavy-duty Automatic Locking Rear Differential (aka G80), And A Skid Plate Package...
skid Plate Package Includes: Frame-mounted Shields, Front Underbody Shield Starting Behind Front Bumper And Running To First Cross-member, Protecting Front Underbody, Oil Pan, Differential Case And Transfer Case

Haha
 
Yeah I chuckled at that one too... although I have to admit the G80 in our C2500 as well as my K3500 isn't half bad with stock size tires...
 
It still sucks in the 10 bolt.


The Bilstein shocks went the way of the dodo sometime shortly after the body style change in '99.


Problem with cranking the torsion bars is you're moving the suspension down in the travel ark. Never liked it when I did mine. How close is yours to the "bounce jouncers" or whatever they call the metal bump stops?
 
Id like to see how your truck looks after the new keys in there, im thinkin bout doin it to my 02 1500

Tom
 
i put a superlift 6inch on my 03 2500hd and torsion keys i have also a add a leaf in the rear so its like 8inches. 37 13.5 16s fit perfect and it looks good. first pic in centralia pa and the rest are at the bloomsburg jamboree last year...

24140492_6ef2e95a1156204308.jpg

24140492_88b198451156204456.jpg

24140492_cb37096a1156103498.jpg

Picture 121.jpg
 
Id like to see how your truck looks after the new keys in there, im thinkin bout doin it to my 02 1500

Tom

I torqued the torsion bars down and it leveled it up but I'm wanting a hair more lift out of it. Weird thing is, the p-side adjuster bolt is bottomed out but the d-side still has quite a few threads left. The fender height on the d-side is still 1/8" higher than the p-side so I need to back it out a little more. :confused: I plan on installing the new keys this week while I'm off after I put my new zero rates in the K5. :D
i put a superlift 6inch on my 03 2500hd and torsion keys i have also a add a leaf in the rear so its like 8inches. 37 13.5 16s fit perfect and it looks good. first pic in centralia pa and the rest are at the bloomsburg jamboree last year...
Man your truck looks great but I don't want to go quite that high with it since I drive this every day and need it to tow with as well and still get decent mileage. I don't want to go with too big of a tire and have to worry about re-gearing to compensate for lost mileage, especially while towing.
 
i drive mine about twice a week, usually on weekends. it gets 14mpg when you take it easy, when your hard on it its real bad. its lifted since new, it only got 16mpg then so i didnt do too bad and im only 7 miles from work. i use a m1008 with the gearing changed to 4:10s so it does better on the road..that gets like 16-18 every day. and by the way thanks...
 

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