2004 Suburban 2500 Auto Ride Shocks

[CUCV2]

The family is growing so we found a nice 2004 Suburban 2500. Every used car seems to need something and this one is no exception. It needs the auto ride front shocks replaced. The PO replaced them but with the non auto ride version. The new shocks are $300 each! What does auto ride do? Are there any options for taking care of this?

 

[CUCV2]

Here's one option so far.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums...l-maintenance/291516-autoride-disconnect.html

 

[jeff in co]

Bringing up from past.....

I also need new shocks with auto-ride. Any alternatives without sending faulty codes?

 

[Blue85]

Autoride is 2 things. First, it offers active damping control via the electrical connector on the shock. Secondly, it does auto leveling in the rear via height sensors, a compressor and the air bags built into the shocks.

You can get a pair of shocks for $400 from Arnott, with a lifetime warranty. I am considering this for my '05. I have also thought about adding some "universal" airbags instead and plumbing the stock air lines to them to get the same auto-leveling feature.

Before you start spending money, check out the rest of the system. Many of these have blown up compressors, which is also a high-$$ item. I already solved this one by sourcing another Arnott-made compressor from a Buick or something. I did this because I was able to get it for $30, while most that came from a GMT800 are hundreds, even though they are the same basic construction. I was able to take apart both compressors and come up with a working one that mounts to the truck. Then I tested it by turning on the truck. When I jack it up by the hitch, the compressor turns off, so I figure I'm good to go once I get the shocks.

If you run standard shocks, you lose the electronic damping control. Some people claim that's an improvement, but I'm skeptical because our Yukon XL rides like a dream.

 

[jeff in co]

What I've learned so far today is the 1/2 tons have the air leveling but the 3/4 tons do not. Just dampening and ride control. However, if I replace them with non-specific shocks, I will get some warning or check engine/suspension lights in the dash.

Apparently it also ties into the brake system and picks up signals to allow for proper braking depending on the load the truck is carrying.

RockAuto is $237 each for front, $221 each for rears..... And that's about the cheapest I've found.

 

[Chevy305]

What about the non-autoride shocks? I don't have autoride and I recently replaced my shocks front and rear on my 2000 Tahoe with Bilstein 5100s. The original rear shocks have some sort of load assist on them as the rear of the truck dropped almost 2". The new Bilsteins only brought it back up an inch. Should I just toss the originals back in?
Sorry for the highjack

 

[skunked]

What about the non-autoride shocks? I don't have autoride and I recently replaced my shocks front and rear on my 2000 Tahoe with Bilstein 5100s. The original rear shocks have some sort of load assist on them as the rear of the truck dropped almost 2". The new Bilsteins only brought it back up an inch. Should I just toss the originals back in?
Sorry for the highjack

It's on coil springs right?

They make spacers. I decided to add bags inside my coils so I can air up when I tow.

 

[Cili]

My tech school teacher went through the same thing on his suburban. He put regular shocks on it and then got a couple of resistors from radio shack to wire in instead of the shocks to keep a light or code from showing up.

 

[Blue85]

Yeah, if the only thing missing is the shock, the controller can be faked out with a resistor. Just measure the resistance on the old shock. Or somebody on eBay probably sells a code elimination kit for like $40.

 

[Chevy305]

It's on coil springs right?

They make spacers. I decided to add bags inside my coils so I can air up when I tow.

Yup coil springs

Ya I know they have spacers but I think I'd rather just put the old shocks back in as they were still good. You see I cranked the T-bars and had to put in longer shocks in the front so I just wanted the shocks to match front and rear. As of now its perfectly level front to rear but if I put any weight in the rear I get the ass sag which I HATE.


And ya there are some creative f*ckers on eBay.

 

[skunked]

Yup coil springs

Ya I know they have spacers but I think I'd rather just put the old shocks back in as they were still good. You see I cranked the T-bars and had to put in longer shocks in the front so I just wanted the shocks to match front and rear. As of now its perfectly level front to rear but if I put any weight in the rear I get the ass sag which I HATE.


And ya there are some creative f*ckers on eBay.

Pickup a pair of Z71 coils, from what I hear they add an 1.5" or so in height. I clear 33's on my 02 Z71 Tahoe with no air in my bags.

 

[Chevy305]

Pickup a pair of Z71 coils, from what I hear they add an 1.5" or so in height. I clear 33's on my 02 Z71 Tahoe with no air in my bags.

I have 33"s on mine too. After maxing the stock torsion keys they only rub when at full lock on the inner plastic fender. I did hear that too about the Z71 coils. If I go higher that's what I'll do.

 

[Blue85]

It's on coil springs right?

They make spacers. I decided to add bags inside my coils so I can air up when I tow.

I have been thinking of leaving the air bags on the Autoride shocks busted and putting standard air springs in there instead, with the stock air lines plumbed in. Then the auto-leveling would work like stock, but no loss of magnetic damping shocks and no need to buy rebagged shocks for $400 and no trouble codes. The two obvious ways have issues to resolve:

1) Put a bag inside the stock coil spring. This is a simple, clean install, but all I find are 3-30psi bags. I don't have good references on Autoride pressures, except that it checks for 10psi minimum and may be able to inflate as high as 150psi. So with a heavy load, maybe the bags would pop or interfere with coil spring operation.

2) Use an air assist kit. You can get these for 00-06 GMTs, but they all say "not for 1500" or "not for Autoride equipped". I don't know how they mount to know what's compatible.