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2005 Taurus electrical problems

fourwheelerjeff

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I have a 2005 Taurus SE with the 3.0 Vulcan engine with electrical problems. Years ago my wife took it in for an oil change; I usually do them myself but was working 14 hour days, 6 days a week. when she picked it up, when you started it the info center on the dash made the scream and said "check charging system." I checked everything; battery, alternator, and wiring. took it to a shop and they said it was charging but I needed to go to Ford and get the specific alternator for my car (which was wrong and I knew it.) anyway, it was parked for a long time and when our other car was totaled we started using it as I am retired now and don't have the money for a new car. Thursday I had a VA appointment 3 hours away. I was smelling antifreeze and the car overheated, I stopped at an auto parts store on the way and put a gallon of antifreeze in the car, along with almost a gallon of water. I bought a new "radiator cap" which goes on the overflow tank as it is a closed system. the tanks acts as if it stripped. the cap will tighten but not click and then it gets loose again. so I will be ordering and replace the tank again.

the problem is on the way home every time I hit a rough patch of road, I would lose electrical power. the cruise would kick off, it would just be for a moment and then everything would come back on. Until finally I hit an expansion joint in a bridge and it lost power completely and will not start. it won't even turn over and I can't hear the fuel pump kick on. this happened at almost exactly halfway, so I called my son to come pick me up. I disconnected the battery to see if the computer would reset itself; first for 5 minutes, then for 15, then for 30. when you hook the battery up, it shows a display of mileage with dashes and then immediately displays "low oil pressure." which may prevent it from trying to start. I did look over grounds while I was waiting.

I had Googled years ago and I believe the "check charging system" is a computer malfunction. I am wondering with the computer already malfunctioning with the car getting hot, thus transferring heat to the computer, finally got the computer to the point it quit? or am I totally off the mark? about to hook up the trailer and take the truck and go get it.
 
I have a 2005 Taurus SE with the 3.0 Vulcan engine with electrical problems. Years ago my wife took it in for an oil change; I usually do them myself but was working 14 hour days, 6 days a week. when she picked it up, when you started it the info center on the dash made the scream and said "check charging system." I checked everything; battery, alternator, and wiring. took it to a shop and they said it was charging but I needed to go to Ford and get the specific alternator for my car (which was wrong and I knew it.) anyway, it was parked for a long time and when our other car was totaled we started using it as I am retired now and don't have the money for a new car. Thursday I had a VA appointment 3 hours away. I was smelling antifreeze and the car overheated, I stopped at an auto parts store on the way and put a gallon of antifreeze in the car, along with almost a gallon of water. I bought a new "radiator cap" which goes on the overflow tank as it is a closed system. the tanks acts as if it stripped. the cap will tighten but not click and then it gets loose again. so I will be ordering and replace the tank again.

the problem is on the way home every time I hit a rough patch of road, I would lose electrical power. the cruise would kick off, it would just be for a moment and then everything would come back on. Until finally I hit an expansion joint in a bridge and it lost power completely and will not start. it won't even turn over and I can't hear the fuel pump kick on. this happened at almost exactly halfway, so I called my son to come pick me up. I disconnected the battery to see if the computer would reset itself; first for 5 minutes, then for 15, then for 30. when you hook the battery up, it shows a display of mileage with dashes and then immediately displays "low oil pressure." which may prevent it from trying to start. I did look over grounds while I was waiting.

I had Googled years ago and I believe the "check charging system" is a computer malfunction. I am wondering with the computer already malfunctioning with the car getting hot, thus transferring heat to the computer, finally got the computer to the point it quit? or am I totally off the mark? about to hook up the trailer and take the truck and go get it.
Your theory is correct, whether it is the ecm or a power wire somewhere, it' was halfway gone and now it completely broke.
I had a similar problem in my freightliner, it would lose power completely for a split second and come back after an expansion joint or a pothole.
A few months later I was driving at night on the highway and it happened a couple of times on a rough section then it died completely.
I coasted to the shoulder and in the dark I blindly started to wiggle wires in the harness under the hood and I finally got a flash, I kept moving around until I located the problem, my main positive cable was broken at the eyelet, and it was still touching. One of the hardest things I had to deal with in electrical issues
 
I took my little code reader with me and this is what it says. I had a friend drive from Lubbock with his Jeep and we used his winch to pull it on the trailer. Guess I need to get busy putting a winch, tongue box, battery, solar panel, and battery box on my trailer.20260214_145729.jpg
 
Guess I need to get busy putting a winch, tongue box, battery, solar panel, and battery box on my trailer.
Well, if you're going to run a Ford, then yes. Obligatory comment out of the way, an ABS fault should not prevent it from starting. This is a CAN bus fault, so it's possible the scanner is pointing to the ABS module, but it's also possible the scanner just always says "Ford ABS" at the top . :dunno: Guys on Youtube are fixing this fault by resoldering the connector on the cluster, but it could be from any module on the CAN bus. If you have wiring diagrams, you can follow the CAN wiring around and measure the resistance between CAN HI/LO and those pins to ground on the various modules. One is likely shorted or open circuit, or there is just a dirty connector.

There will be passthrough devices and terminating devices. Each end of the bus is normally terminated with 120-Ohms. My guess is the ECM is one end, but I have no idea which module is the other.
 
that was just a little HF scanner I bought on sale. I have a bigger scanner (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XK3DJ42?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) that I am going to use to see if I can pinpoint more of what the problem is. another thing I noticed yesterday that even with the key in and in the run position the theft light is still flashing; whereas it used to go off. I had read about the soldering in the instrument cluster and had read that sometimes tapping on the dash will get it to work. I don't know; I will admit I am not real smart on this electronic stuff. I just fumble my way through. it started raining yesterday so I just left it on the trailer.
 
If tapping on the dash might temp fix it, that would explain the loss of cruise and power at bumps in road. Instrument panel is a module too.
I would also be looking at under hood power distribution box, loose corded battery supply cable, rodent damage, etc.
bumps can bounce weak relay contacts, ford used to use a relay to power the EEC-4 system, not sure about 05 Taurus.
 
yes this, not sure if the Taurus shares same design, as the recalled fire starting crown vic, and F series, but it worth an inspection.

I think I replaced the ign switch in all our F series truck 2x. Two different recalls, 2 different up designed switches
 
I went out today with my bigger scanner and it wouldn't communicate with the ECU. last week I had found someone had left the radio noise suppressor off the intake bolt and it was just flopping around. I did some googling and found where it attached and put it back. today I did some more googling and found a thread where the guy had the exact same problems as mine. turned out the 30A Maxi Fuse had blown. there wasn't one at the general store in town but my boys have a cousin that has a junkyard so I went there and found one in a vehicle and robbed it. car starts up now. I have a new reservoir tank ordered since this one seems to stripped where the cap screws on.
 
Just out of curiosity, was this vehicle out in the yard or up in the parking lot? :pimp:

:D
it was in the yard although I was starting to think I wouldn't find a 30A. found 60, 40, and 20. although he does have as much parked in the parking lot as the yard
 
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