CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

2011 Suburban Throttle ?

TREA18

1/2 ton status
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Apr 17, 2008
Posts
1,111
Reaction score
97
Location
PEOSTA, IOWA
I'm lacking knowledge on how The foot pedal travel creates rpm's in newer vehicles...

My 2011 Suburban has hand controls for running gas and brakes from my wheelchair. I have done a lot of adjusting on mounting points (pedal or pedal arms) to get the best brake and throttle response and its as good as I've ever had one setup. However my hand controls are limiting me from idle to WOT. What is the gas pedal doing and can I adjust anything (other than hand controls) to create WOT with less pedal travel?
 
Last edited:
I'm not real sure if we're talking a purely mechanical interface here or not. If so, where do the hand controls tie into the gas pedal? You could move the attachment point closer to the gas pedal pivot (higher up on the firewall) to achieve WOT in a shorter range of hand control motion.

If it's a fly-by-wire pedal, you might have better luck separating the pedal from the potentiometer and using your hand controls directly with the potentiometer.
 
I have tried to move the attachments up the pedal as much as I can but it then messes up the travel of the brake and force needed to apply one or the other. The potentiometer. There probably is no way to affect quickness of getting to wide open on it?
 
It is drive by wire. You will either have to adjust the hand controls for more throw.... Or, make your pivot on the pedal a different ratio.

Is it purely a mechanical connection to the pedal? One thing that could be done is turn you hand control into the APP, accelerator pedal position. It would be done similar to how aftermarket gen 4 cruise control systems work. They interrupt the pedal signal and make their own. Basically make is switchable from pedal to hand control.

The way DBW works is the APP is pressed and a voltage is seen. That is taken by the ECM and crossed against a table for APP vs Torque then the throttle blade is commanded to move to that position. The TPS in the blade reports back for blade location.
 
Last edited:
It is drive by wire. You will either have to adjust the hand controls for more throw.... Or, make your pivot on the pedal a different ratio.

Is it purely a mechanical connection to the pedal? One thing that could be done is turn you hand control into the APP, accelerator pedal position. It would be done similar to how aftermarket gen 4 cruise control systems work. They interrupt the pedal signal and make their own. Basically make is switchable from pedal to hand control.

The way DBW works is the APP is pressed and a voltage is seen. That is taken by the ECM and crossed against a table for APP vs Torque then the throttle blade is commanded to move to that position. The TPS in the blade reports back for blade location.

Yea it is mechanical connection right to the pedal. I'll have to look up gen 4 cruise control and see what I can learn..
 
Those are interruption boxes. A lot of guys thing DBW means slow pedal and no response. This is not really the case, it has more to due with torque calculation, traction control and stability.
 
There is no delay. There is blade angle vs many things. It just opens the blade beyond 1 to 1 and ecm thinks it still has control.
 
On the tune I put on my 05 300C there was an option for taking out the throttle delay. Basically torque management so you didn't get as twitchy of a throttle by having it all available in the first few percentage of throttle position. Is that on the gm thing as well? I know when I took that to full 100% all the time, the bottom end got more funner
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom