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2012 Silverado Frame Rust

Chevy305

Chevy305

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I need to make this post because I'm just so disappointed that the typical frame rust has got me with only 11 years and 118k miles.

PXL_20220703_231227477.jpg

I put off oil undercoating for a few years because I really didn't want to work under and get covered by the grime that goes with it even doing simple maintenance like oil changes and brake jobs. 2 years ago the factory wax frame coating was basically gone the rust was starting to make big chunks so I bit the bullet and had a shop do a full NH Oil Undercoating. Unfortunately they didn't do any prep and didn't remove any rust that was loose. I also believe they didn't really spray inside my frame and definitely didn't do above the rear wheel wells. Anyway time got away from me and I didn't get the truck resprayed last year.

Fast forward to about 2 weeks ago and I blew a brake line on my way home from a camping trip with the family.

PXL_20230825_211103369.jpg

As you can see only rusty spot is where it's held by the clamp. The rest of the lines seemed fine but I ordered a complete stainless brake line kit and replaced all the four lines in this area. But in spending a bunch of time under the truck I got to noticing a few weird looking spots so of course I get to poking at them with a screwdriver and this is the result:

PXL_20230911_012403418.jpg

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PXL_20230911_013239606.jpg

As visible through the hole you can see some mouse nest remnants of leaves, acorns, and chewed up firewall insulation. I think these have been there a while and allowed moisture to sit causing that to rot from the inside. While the rest of the frame is scaly it's not rotten this seems to be the only soft spot.

My plan is to cut it back some, clean it out, and plate it with some angle iron. What I'm curious about is what I should do about coating this? I've been around here a while and I know the right way is to sandblast, epoxy primer, and urethane top coat. I don't think I can have the truck down for that long. I'm thinking just rust converter and maybe Steel It or Cold Galvanizing, and then a top coat of rustolium and the oil undercoat the crap out of everything. Thoughts?
 
Damn boxed frames, always go from the inside out. My experience has been that for every spot you can see, there are two more just as bad.
 
Chevy305 said:
... While the rest of the frame is scaly it's not rotten this seems to be the only soft spot...
Click to expand...

Hope that's the case, but x2 on what chickntrk's comment on rust hiding.

Chevy305 said:
My plan is to cut it back some, clean it out, and plate it with some angle iron. What I'm curious about is what I should do about coating this? I've been around here a while and I know the right way is to sandblast, epoxy primer, and urethane top coat. I don't think I can have the truck down for that long. I'm thinking just rust converter and maybe Steel It or Cold Galvanizing, and then a top coat of rustolium and the oil undercoat the crap out of everything. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Is this common on enough on these trucks that they make patch panels?

I had a Tacoma that I was able to source repair sections for the frame (front rear spring hanger area) and it made repairs a lot easier.

IMG_0712.jpeg
 
Honestly, I’d make a phone call to Chevrolet customer assistance if for one reason to get it on record. The warranty did have a portion for rust/corrosion that was for 10 years and I can’t remember the mileage point. Even though you are technically outside of the 10 years they need to know about it.

Will they do anything to help? Maybe, but due to the age/miles it won’t be all covered by gm but a portion. Thats not really the point. Gm has had similar issues with brake lines rotting out back east to the point they did a recall or special coverage a few years back on gmt800 trucks with rotting brake lines.

Next thing is to report it to NHTSA. Again doing that isn’t going to help you immediately but brake lines rotting and holes developing in the frame are big safety issues. I can bet you are not alone. If ntsha gets enough reports they will push gm into performing a recall.

I think your plans are good for the repairs but I would fully document the damage with pics prior to repairing. That way when you reach out to Chevy and nthsa they can see it in its full nasty mess form.
 
Unfortunately I’d be surprised if there was a 2012 in the northeast that didn’t look like that. Just a reality of living in the salt brine region. Oil them from day one is the only way to attempt to save them.
 
Man that frame is horrid! I've had to do a bit of frame repair from cracking near the steering gear. But, the rust issue is non existent compared to that. And Chloe is 50 years old! But, that's 801 environment
 
joshuak said:
Hope that's the case, but x2 on what chickntrk's comment on rust hiding.



Is this common on enough on these trucks that they make patch panels?

I had a Tacoma that I was able to source repair sections for the frame (front rear spring hanger area) and it made repairs a lot easier.

View attachment 457248
Click to expand...
I haven't seen any patch panels for this area. They do make replacement tubular cross members for the rear and the gas tank which are very common to rot out, same as the GMT800s
 
Chevy305 said:
I need to make this post because I'm just so disappointed that the typical frame rust has got me with only 11 years and 118k miles.

View attachment 457243

I put off oil undercoating for a few years because I really didn't want to work under and get covered by the grime that goes with it even doing simple maintenance like oil changes and brake jobs. 2 years ago the factory wax frame coating was basically gone the rust was starting to make big chunks so I bit the bullet and had a shop do a full NH Oil Undercoating. Unfortunately they didn't do any prep and didn't remove any rust that was loose. I also believe they didn't really spray inside my frame and definitely didn't do above the rear wheel wells. Anyway time got away from me and I didn't get the truck resprayed last year.

Fast forward to about 2 weeks ago and I blew a brake line on my way home from a camping trip with the family.

View attachment 457231

As you can see only rusty spot is where it's held by the clamp. The rest of the lines seemed fine but I ordered a complete stainless brake line kit and replaced all the four lines in this area. But in spending a bunch of time under the truck I got to noticing a few weird looking spots so of course I get to poking at them with a screwdriver and this is the result:

View attachment 457232

View attachment 457233

View attachment 457234

As visible through the hole you can see some mouse nest remnants of leaves, acorns, and chewed up firewall insulation. I think these have been there a while and allowed moisture to sit causing that to rot from the inside. While the rest of the frame is scaly it's not rotten this seems to be the only soft spot.

My plan is to cut it back some, clean it out, and plate it with some angle iron. What I'm curious about is what I should do about coating this? I've been around here a while and I know the right way is to sandblast, epoxy primer, and urethane top coat. I don't think I can have the truck down for that long. I'm thinking just rust converter and maybe Steel It or Cold Galvanizing, and then a top coat of rustolium and the oil undercoat the crap out of everything. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
My suggestion is to fix the brake line and ride it out.
Rust cost more than it's worth to eradicate.
If it was a rare car I could see but this truck will serve you fine as is for another couple of years then ditch it and get another.
 
My recommendation, find a replacement truck from the west coast with similar mileage and age. Use that one for spare parts or sell it off after the patch. I bet you will be break even if you patch that one and sell it other than the cost of shipping a truck across country ($2-4K)
 
kennyw said:
My recommendation, find a replacement truck from the west coast with similar mileage and age. Use that one for spare parts or sell it off after the patch. I bet you will be break even if you patch that one and sell it other than the cost of shipping a truck across country ($2-4K)
Click to expand...
I'm a part of a GMT900 FB group and I'm seeing lots of rust belt people post about rusted frames in varying severity. I think this is turning out to be a big issue with these trucks.

Under more normal times, I'd definitely dump this truck and get a new or slightly used one, but Given the price of trucks these days, I feel it makes more sense to keep them on the road and drive them longer. Plus very few new trucks I actually like. They all look way too aggressive, the grills are absolutely massive, and have way too much electronics. Call me old school but I don't like touch screens in cars at all. It's way too distracting. Plus GM still uses the same shitty wax frame coating. Have they learned nothing since the GMT800s?


But yes my next truck if used will be at least from the mid Atlantic states area as they endure far less salt than the every day salt exposure in New Hampshire and are drivable within a day for me.
 
After much back and forth about selling and buying new/buying used/buying used from the south, I decided the truck was still worth saving and some effort now will pay me back in the long run by continuing to be payment free. Besides why not just 1 more project?

I've set aside some time to do a more thorough job to make this whole thing worthwhile. That means taking the bed off and needle gunning, wire wheeling it all down, rust converter, primer, and paint.

PXL_20231010_140851790.jpgPXL_20231010_141447550.jpgPXL_20231010_141430867.jpg

Of course my boys were very curious! Lol

After getting a good look at the frame, I'm glad I'm doing this now as of I waited another year or two, I'd be replacing cross members.
 
Been there with my 02 Duramax and my kids 01 Duramax, mine was way worse than the 01. Crossmembers needed help for sure. I fixed them.
Both trucks are sold now.
My 02 is still on the road today, we seen it driving around. My kids went way up north no idea what it’s doing but it frame was still in good shape.

It took a lot of time to clean up the frames.
Hope you got a good air supply!?
 
My air supply isn't the best. I have a rollair contractor style compressor and a 30 gal receiver tank. I seem to get about 5-10 mins then I need to wait for it recharge. But I just grab my grinder while it builds pressure so no lost time really.
 
Just remember what you’re seeing on the outside is worse on the inside and there’s no way to needle scale inside…..you have your work cut out for you
 
A friend of mine had a nearly identical 2011 with somewhere around 130k on it come into his shop with the lady saying the shock mounts broke off the back. Turns out not only were both crossmembers gone, but a solid inch of the frame was gone on both sides for probably 2-3 ft under the back of the cab.

Apparently her ex brought the truck with him from Massachusetts and she kept it.

My buddy decided he didn't want to touch that truck.
 
Chickntrk said:
Just remember what you’re seeing on the outside is worse on the inside and there’s no way to needle scale inside…..you have your work cut out for you
Click to expand...
I sure do the descaling has taken longer than I thought. I thought I'd be painting it today but I'll be lucky to have all the welding done today.:rolleyes:
 
Some more forward progress yesterday. I got the rust holes cut out and mostly finished the patching. It's not the prettiest but it's functional and the gas tank hides most of it. The welding isn't the best either because rusty metal sucks to weld.

Look at how much crap I vacuumed out of the frame!

PXL_20231011_153157203.jpgPXL_20231011_223939044.jpgPXL_20231011_223921389.jpg
 
Those poor trucks in the rusty places of the country. You would be sad if I posted pics of the '07.5 Chevy we have at work that spent most of its life as a plow truck at a coal mine. Its mint compared to stuff you guys have to deal with.
 
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