Yikes! Sucks when people do crappy work.
CK5
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2014 Silverado High Country RUST Nightmare
- Thread starter ZombieK5
- Start date
2014 Silverado we bought for our 16 yr old. Turns out the rear frame is suffering the normal total corrosion issue
Wouldn't a good used unit make more sense than putting that much into a tcase?
It might also work to score a used case, tear it down and make 1 good one. At least you got to it before some chunk lodged in the gears and blew it up. That planetary set may be re-usable, as long as the surface that locates to the thrust washer is OK. The downside is that you can't really clean out the bushings on the planet gears.
Do you have a mom and pop driveline shop in your area that might sell you used parts?
Do you have a mom and pop driveline shop in your area that might sell you used parts?
Amazingly the planetary set was only $50 at GMPartsGiant.com. What sux is the input gear was $160. I also got a new fork for $165 and a new shift cam arm for $124. NOT cheap but that website has prices about 30-50% less than any other I found. Case seems fine. New case halfs are about $350 each side.
I'm still stressing about setting the clutch pack height.
From my understanding, these cases suck to begin with. I much prefer NP cases. Used is a huge crap shoot. These seem to need oil and lots of it. Looks like this TC ran low.
would any of these work for you? maybe someone could bring one back from BB25 for you?
I was going to post the same thingwould any of these work for you? maybe someone could bring one back from BB25 for you?
IF anyone is driving from Vegas towards the east coast, PLEASE PICK ONE UP FOR ME
Well, the TC shit the bed. The exploded thrust washer caused metal to metal contact between the input shaft and planetary gear. That, in kind, somehow caused the planetary gear to destroy the shift fork. I am not totally sure of the events that cascaded with this damage but I know it needs to be fixed. I ordered a BUNCH of parts and will fix the TC when they come in. I also found this case was apart before. There is at least one spacer missing around the clutch pack. Not sure how that has affected the total performance or if it helped the TC to destroy itself.
Input shaft with associated thrust washer and spacer. You can see heat damage on the teeth. This case got VERY hot, The planetary gears also had significant heat damage.
Significant metal on metal damage inside the planetary gear set. This damage is from where the input shaft spun. There should have been a nylon thrust washer to prevent this. I feel the input washer pieces I found came from this location.
Significant metal on metal damage on the planetary gear face. This side faces the shift fork...IF this looks bad, look below at the shift fork. It was destroyed.
Shift Fork damage caused by the planetary gear riding against it. The fork moves the High/Low Clutch Gear forward and back. The gear does not have any outward damage other than heat damage. However once it was removed, the nylon fork pads were ground down to metal and damaged the gear.
High/Low Clutch Gear - The slot where the fork rides has a bunch of metal on metal damage
Destroyed nylon fork pads and metal on metal damage. Significant heat damage can be seen on the fork. These forks are not cheap to replace.
The good news is there does not appear to be any case damage and no other hard parts seem damaged beyond this. I need new bearings and seals but the gears and shafts appear fine.
I have done a disassemble post for this case here:
ck5.com
More to follow...
Input shaft with associated thrust washer and spacer. You can see heat damage on the teeth. This case got VERY hot, The planetary gears also had significant heat damage.
Significant metal on metal damage inside the planetary gear set. This damage is from where the input shaft spun. There should have been a nylon thrust washer to prevent this. I feel the input washer pieces I found came from this location.
Significant metal on metal damage on the planetary gear face. This side faces the shift fork...IF this looks bad, look below at the shift fork. It was destroyed.
Shift Fork damage caused by the planetary gear riding against it. The fork moves the High/Low Clutch Gear forward and back. The gear does not have any outward damage other than heat damage. However once it was removed, the nylon fork pads were ground down to metal and damaged the gear.
High/Low Clutch Gear - The slot where the fork rides has a bunch of metal on metal damage
Destroyed nylon fork pads and metal on metal damage. Significant heat damage can be seen on the fork. These forks are not cheap to replace.
The good news is there does not appear to be any case damage and no other hard parts seem damaged beyond this. I need new bearings and seals but the gears and shafts appear fine.
I have done a disassemble post for this case here:
2014 Silverado - MP3023 Transfer Case Disassembly - Input & Rear Output Shaft
We bought a 2014 Silverado High Country about 8 months ago. I failed to check the frame for rust and subsequently have to repair a major portion of the rear frame structure. You can see that work on my build page...
ck5.com
More to follow...
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So, the new dual MBRP exhaust causes issues with the twin rear brake lines. I got new, longer lines, that fixed the issue. I went to bleed the calipers and BOOM the bleed nipples are totally frozen. Can't get them out with out causing breakage or other damage. So, they are old and very corroded, probably original equipment.
New calipers on the way...
Removed rotors and another BOOM. axle seals seem to be shot. Wonderful!
New seals, axle bearings, and calipers on the way, along with new parking brake parts. The oil ruined the brake shoes.
I'm definitely down the rabbit hole now.
New calipers on the way...
Removed rotors and another BOOM. axle seals seem to be shot. Wonderful!
New seals, axle bearings, and calipers on the way, along with new parking brake parts. The oil ruined the brake shoes.
I'm definitely down the rabbit hole now.
Update on the transfer case. Waiting on TWO frikin parts. Actually waiting on the original part that failed...a.thrust washer. Hate that GM doesn't have these parts available.
I got the rear output shaft back together, including the clutch pack. No serious issues...
Once the parts are in, I'll have it together in a few hours.
I got the rear output shaft back together, including the clutch pack. No serious issues...
Once the parts are in, I'll have it together in a few hours.
The business model has changed for sure. They outsource the whole unit to a supplier and then don't service the unit at the dealership - just replace it. I'm sure it's based on the $$ for training, manuals, inventory, etc. based on what will need replacement under warranty. Obviously, it's bad news for the owner down the line that just wants to maintain the vehicle. Often times key wear items do become available through non-GM supply chain or even aftermarket substitute parts.
The only part they offer for my Cadillac (Getrag) rear differential are the output seals
.
The business model has changed for sure. They outsource the whole unit to a supplier and then don't service the unit at the dealership - just replace it. I'm sure it's based on the $$ for training, manuals, inventory, etc. based on what will need replacement under warranty. Obviously, it's bad news for the owner down the line that just wants to maintain the vehicle. Often times key wear items do become available through non-GM supply chain or even aftermarket substitute parts.
The only part they offer for my Cadillac (Getrag) rear differential are the output seals
I thought there was a federal law that vehicle manufacturers had to supply parts for any model year for at least 10 years. I recently learned that this is not true. I guess the big vehicle manufacturers are getting to the point were they'd rather have the new vehicle sale then the repair on the old vehicles. I'm finding more and more the parts are not available. Almost makes me want to start stockpiling parts for unusual repairs. Trouble is I could spend a fortune and end them not ever needing the part.
I can absolutely see me monitoring Facebook Marketplace for cheap used transfer cases, axles and other parts. If I end up not using them, I would be able to resell them on Marketplace to someone else several years from now that will need it since the manufacturer won't be making the parts anymore
Hence my nickname.
I don't do it because I am afraid there won't be any, but because I want it there when I need it
Transfer Case is back together and back under the truck. Seems to work fine.
Truck is out of the garage. It had codes which i expected with all the systems it has that were disconnected.
Cleared codes and it was left with TWO codes:
P2635
P108B
Fixed the P108B by replacing the fuel pressure sender located on the fuel line under the driver's seat
The P2365 is VERY nebulous. Some Chevy sources say it is a leaking injector seal. The truck had VERY negative long term fuel trim number (ranged -24 to -18). I drove it around a bit and that seemed to clear up. Maybe the engine was still relearning its parameters.
NOW, all seems fine. No CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and if I did not run my scanner/computer I would never know about the code.
I ran a Fuel Rail Pressure test today and it shows to be between 580-690psi at idle and more than 1,200psi under load while driving around. The High Pressure Fuel Pump seems fine.
HOWEVER, my MUCAR scan computer allows me to run pressure sensor voltage and it shows 2 FUEL RAIL pressure sensors. See the below image
Everything I read says there is only one Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. IF this is correct, why does the test show 2 sensors...and where are they located. I understand one is definitely located on one of the fuel rails, where is the second. I have the GM Manual for this truck and it does not show any VOLTAGE specs for the sensors.
The "2nd" pressure sensor is NOT the one I replaced. There is a separate listing for it on the scan computer.
Anyone know the fuel system on these trucks?
BTW, here is the GM Manual pages for the P2635 code:
There are no other DTCs on the truck
Cleared codes and it was left with TWO codes:
P2635
P108B
Fixed the P108B by replacing the fuel pressure sender located on the fuel line under the driver's seat
The P2365 is VERY nebulous. Some Chevy sources say it is a leaking injector seal. The truck had VERY negative long term fuel trim number (ranged -24 to -18). I drove it around a bit and that seemed to clear up. Maybe the engine was still relearning its parameters.
NOW, all seems fine. No CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and if I did not run my scanner/computer I would never know about the code.
I ran a Fuel Rail Pressure test today and it shows to be between 580-690psi at idle and more than 1,200psi under load while driving around. The High Pressure Fuel Pump seems fine.
HOWEVER, my MUCAR scan computer allows me to run pressure sensor voltage and it shows 2 FUEL RAIL pressure sensors. See the below image
Everything I read says there is only one Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. IF this is correct, why does the test show 2 sensors...and where are they located. I understand one is definitely located on one of the fuel rails, where is the second. I have the GM Manual for this truck and it does not show any VOLTAGE specs for the sensors.
The "2nd" pressure sensor is NOT the one I replaced. There is a separate listing for it on the scan computer.
Anyone know the fuel system on these trucks?
BTW, here is the GM Manual pages for the P2635 code:
There are no other DTCs on the truck
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