pretty sure I followed assembly instructions to a tee but here is what I have going on... 205 is completely rebuilt. 203 was in the Burb when I got it but I never drove it. Doubler kit is from ORD & I got there shaft. Everything works fine, no weird noises until I let off the gas at hwy speeds. The noise is kind of like there is play, or slack somewhere. I know I need to pull it back apart but has anyone had this noise & what caused it. Id like to know where to start looking.
CK5
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203/205 Doubler noise
- Thread starter nedceifus
- Start date
sounds very ujoint like.
Yeah, I'd bet it's driveshaft noise from bad angles.
Can you pull the rear shaft and drive it on the front to see if it changes?
Can you pull the rear shaft and drive it on the front to see if it changes?
No but I will verify my angles are correct, I think they are good. 1 u joint was new. I guess the only time I have tried to check them it has been parked in my shed,,,,, with 6" of slope in the floor in 20'.!
Driveline vibration for sure
Vombrown
Mountain Man
One more for driveline vibration. If it was an issue with the doubler the noise would be constant. Check the joints and angles. I think your problem with show itself.
my current plow truck was fine with th400/205 combo un till i removed 25" of wheelbase . the shaft was shortened and balanced .
now i get vibration growl noise at times and more so on deceleration . i know its this combo but i am not worried as it is only used 1k miles a year at most . and most of that is 45mph or less.
so if all parts were good and tight and assembled good in the 203/205 combo then like others have said its driveline probably
now i get vibration growl noise at times and more so on deceleration . i know its this combo but i am not worried as it is only used 1k miles a year at most . and most of that is 45mph or less.
so if all parts were good and tight and assembled good in the 203/205 combo then like others have said its driveline probably
I have 15 degrees on the shaft itself. 5 degrees on my transfercase output.
That's 10 degrees front u-joint.
I have 8 degrees on the yolk of the 14 bolt.
That's 7 degrees rear U-joint.
This is a non CV shaft so I guess I am pushing my angles. I may have to go to a double C driveshaft & output flange. I would hate to drop my transfer case... either way sucks. The one u-joint was not in great shape but it did not not have any slack. I got a replacement. I'll drop the transfer case temporarily, replace the joint & see if this goes away then go from there. If I end up going to a CV shaft I'm going to have to cut my perches back off & my traction bar brackets.
That's 10 degrees front u-joint.
I have 8 degrees on the yolk of the 14 bolt.
That's 7 degrees rear U-joint.
This is a non CV shaft so I guess I am pushing my angles. I may have to go to a double C driveshaft & output flange. I would hate to drop my transfer case... either way sucks. The one u-joint was not in great shape but it did not not have any slack. I got a replacement. I'll drop the transfer case temporarily, replace the joint & see if this goes away then go from there. If I end up going to a CV shaft I'm going to have to cut my perches back off & my traction bar brackets.
Correct me if wrong but if your going to have to cut all that away why not just angle you rear pinion correct way and try not to do drive shaft unless needed?
My angles where f:#cked on my k5 and didn't have time or want to do it in driveway so I went with double cardan shaft.
Best if you can drop whole truck off at the shop and let them recheck measurements etc.
My angles where f:#cked on my k5 and didn't have time or want to do it in driveway so I went with double cardan shaft.
Best if you can drop whole truck off at the shop and let them recheck measurements etc.
Mods please delete if this is some sort or of copyright infringement or is just not cool....
Here is a diagram & explanation straight off TomWoods sight. I think the only way to do this "right" is to ditch the dual u-joint & have a CV shaft built. I will need to re lock my rearend so that the pinion is pointed at my transfer case output. Other meathods may work but, I need this thing to work right.
Here is a diagram & explanation straight off TomWoods sight. I think the only way to do this "right" is to ditch the dual u-joint & have a CV shaft built. I will need to re lock my rearend so that the pinion is pointed at my transfer case output. Other meathods may work but, I need this thing to work right.
2005 and up Ford superduty front shaft
I wheel mine with a big block and 42s. They aight.
It's been many years since but I broke a dana 70 pinion yoke and still run the same shaft that was ok when that broke.
