Brady
1/2 ton status
Does anyone make a clocking ring for the round pattern chevy 205?
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205 clocking ring
- Thread starter Brady
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Ughhh I dont have a 205 so correct me if I'm wrong but the 205 has a symetrical pattern so you dont need a ring to clock it up. Just unbolt it and rotate.
You cant do that on a round pattern 205. That would clock it alot! There is/was a company that makes a clocking ring. D&D Machine?
The 208/241/205 all use the same six bolt pattern (even across Chevy, Ford, Dodge and Jeep). The pattern is NOT symmetrical, it can only be bolted up one way.
For whatever reason, the different manufacturers sometimes setup this pattern in different orientations to make it tougher for us to interchange cases
For instance, the Jeep 6 bolt pattern is clocked 90 degrees (down) from the Chevy pattern.
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Brady
1/2 ton status
Anyone redrill and taps new holes to clock the t-case flat?I am planning on doing this.The only problem I see is the knotch in the adapter for the shift rail.
SRSGSXR1000
Registered Member
No the patter is not symetrical, The problem with clocking flat is you have to take more material off of the adapter to clear the shift rail, you'll end up removing 1 bolt hole from the adapter all together. Now your down to 5 bolts, with a large span between 2 of them, weak point!
No one makes a solution for this i looked for months. So i had a machine shop build me a complete new adapter. CNC machined flanges on the t-case and the trans, then a press fit 4.5" .25 wall pipe between the 2 flanges. Rotate t-case anywhere you want it "flat, straight down, etc." then weld the pipe solid with the flanges. At this point you can weld any kind of mount and shifter boss, since it is all steel, instead of cast. The flanges are made from 3/4 cold plate, the adapter is WAY stronger than any cast piece. Plus since your using a piece of tube in between the 2 flanges, it makes no difference what output/input shaft variances you may have, just cut to length.
It cost me a pretty penny to have the programming done for the CNC work, but i kept the file. So next time it won't be so bad.
Oh by the way, i am new here, been on PBB for a while, have heard good things about CK5, hope i can contribute here as well.
Later guys.
No one makes a solution for this i looked for months. So i had a machine shop build me a complete new adapter. CNC machined flanges on the t-case and the trans, then a press fit 4.5" .25 wall pipe between the 2 flanges. Rotate t-case anywhere you want it "flat, straight down, etc." then weld the pipe solid with the flanges. At this point you can weld any kind of mount and shifter boss, since it is all steel, instead of cast. The flanges are made from 3/4 cold plate, the adapter is WAY stronger than any cast piece. Plus since your using a piece of tube in between the 2 flanges, it makes no difference what output/input shaft variances you may have, just cut to length.
It cost me a pretty penny to have the programming done for the CNC work, but i kept the file. So next time it won't be so bad.
Oh by the way, i am new here, been on PBB for a while, have heard good things about CK5, hope i can contribute here as well.
Later guys.
Kenny78
1/2 ton status
Sounds innovative!! Welcome to CK5. I smell one piece 700R4 adapters
Brady
1/2 ton status
Yeah I have been on the search for a while.I have emailed steve at offroad design a couple of times on this.He never replies.I haven't had time to call during the day.I figure I will cut the notch bigger for the shiftrail.Then weld the cut piece back on so I will have 6 bolts.Maybee drill a new hole or 2 in the adapter that match the old holes.
I am pulling the trans/t-case tommorrow and will see what happens.
ORD is very slow when it comes to e-mails. You are much better off calling them
Brady
1/2 ton status
I just decided to drill and retap.Had to cut the notch bigger witch left 5 holes to use.I am planning on welding in a piece of 1/2" plate to fill in the old notch and use the stock hole under the shiftrail a sixth bolt.And drill adapter to use the orignal hole above the shiftrail.So I will end up with seven bolts.Sorry for the bad phone pics.Forgot the camera.The 2nd hole clockwise from the shiftrail is the first new hole.Then every other one.
Stock clocking.
New flat clocking.
Stock clocking.
New flat clocking.
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SRSGSXR1000
Registered Member
I know your gonna disassemble that case now and clean out all the shavings. right?
If not your gonna eat up alot of bearings, real fast.
If not your gonna eat up alot of bearings, real fast.
Brady
1/2 ton status
Yeah,I need to do the twinstick mods also.And actually only three of the news holes go all the way through.The first 2 are 1" deep and didn't go through.
