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205 popping out of gear

k2-k5

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My recently rebuilt 205 pops out of gear on steady accelaration. Of course I have to completely shutdown the motor to get it back in otherwise the gears will grind.

Do I just need a stiffer spring for the shifter? Where do I get those and how stiff do I go?

Oh and this is coupled together with a 203 to make a doubler if that matters. The biatch of the thing is it looks like I have to drop this whole assembly to gain access to replace the spring:mad:
 
Does the shifter move when it pops out?

Years ago mine did that, the shifter moving. I found my linkage mounting bolt didn't 'snug' up my linkage very tight so I made a spacer/washer to squeese my linkage a bit more and never had the problem sence.

I have no clue if that is your issue just thought I would share what happen to me...
 
Sometimes that body lift will effect linkage via the cut out on the doghouse not being large enough for the twin sticks. QUICK SNIP TO FIX.
 
It does under load as well as coming off accelaration like when coasting to a stop. It is like the gears are suddenly loose allowing the shifter to "ghost shift"

The shifter moves after it pops out. I'm sure it is not the linkage it is also not the doghouse as the hump cover is off.
 
Hmmm, well it sounds like you gotta go inside to fix it :doah:
Curious, can you hold the shifter and keep it from popping out of gear or does it pop no matter what?
 
Do I just need a stiffer spring for the shifter?
I don't recall any spring anywhere in the 205 or on the shifter. :confused:

There is a spring for the tension on the detent in the 203 range box though.
 
There is two springs, one for the rear range and one for the front range. You have to assess the springs from the top.

You either have something hitting the shifter or the springs are weak.
Another possibility could be, when the t-case was rebuilt, the thrust washer behind the ball bearing could be left out. It could cause your front output to move back and forth. To check, grab the front output and see if you could move it back and forth A LOT.
 
There is two springs, one for the rear range and one for the front range. You have to assess the springs from the top.

:doah: Forgot about the detent springs in the 205 shift rails. I doubt that is the problem though as those springs are very short and the shorter a spring is the less chance of it losing tension like a longer spring.
 
4X4HIGH said:
:doah: Forgot about the detent springs in the 205 shift rails. I doubt that is the problem though as those springs are very short and the shorter a spring is the less chance of it losing tension like a longer spring.

Well, the t-case in question was recently rebuilt. Whoever rebuilt the transfer-case could have simply forgot to put the springs or detent balls back in.
 
Whoever rebuilt the transfer-case could have simply forgot to put the springs or detent balls back in.

If so, those are kinda hard to replace if the little plugs were put back in. I had to drive mine into the case after dissassembling the whole case to remove them. (That's what the book said to do)
 
bp71k5 said:
If so, those are kinda hard to replace if the little plugs were put back in. I had to drive mine into the case after dissassembling the whole case to remove them. (That's what the book said to do)

The detent balls and springs are located under a threaded plug. They will no doubt be hard to get at with the t-case in the truck still but they definately don't have pressed plugs driven over them.
 
bp71k5 said:
If so, those are kinda hard to replace if the little plugs were put back in. I had to drive mine into the case after dissassembling the whole case to remove them. (That's what the book said to do)



Those plugs are to gain an access hole to drive the roll pins out of the shift rails. The detent springs are just as 4x4HIGH said.

Tom
 

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