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The Story Of A Cummins Suburban (Lots Of Pics)

mosesburb

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Gather 'round boys and girls, it's story time.
Once upon a time, I acquired a '72 K10 Suburban that no longer possessed an engine or transmission. It did have rear a/c though.

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It was fairly straight and quite complete. I started tearing into it and modding and replacing a bunch of stuff (my wallet thought I replaced everything).

I modified the evaporator housing to accept a later model evap core that uses an accumulator and orifice tube instead of the mechanical POA valve and expansion valve.

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I cleaned up the dash replacing most of the a/c ductwork, the a/c controls, the vacuum pods, rebuilt the steering column, and insulated the floor and firewall. I never liked the manual transmission brake pedal, so I modified it. I also added the wider gas pedal from a '73 up truck.

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The electrical system in these trucks was inadequate in stock form (and a fire hazard) so I made my own wiring harness using a fuse block from a mid 80's Suburban and HD Bosch relays for the high amp draw circuits.

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A 20 gallon fuel tank seemed laughable, so I added a 31 gal from K5Nutt/azblazer's '79 K5 when he switched to TBI. I also threw a set of 3/4T axles at it.

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Then, I added a Gen V 454. I disliked how GM mounted the a/c condenser in front of the core support making it 5" too short, so I put it behind the core support. Actually, I put a '82-'83 Suburban condenser behind the core support. I got one of the last ones available for a rear a/c application (rear a/c units got 13 fins per inch instead of the normal truck/K5 units 10 FPI).

I wanted to use the tall radiator from a '73 up in it, but I had someone tell me that it won't fit and can't be put in. So I put one in. I got the Delco service replacement which is an aluminum core instead of the original copper/brass. I also installed a BRAND NEW BOOSTER. Having seen several friends go through reman after reman, I wanted to subtend that arc so I found a unit that was fairly easy to adapt and installed it with a new master and prop valve.

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I was also told that I had to use the short water pump on the big block because a long water pump would not fit. So, once again, heeding their advice, I installed the long water pump and used a factory BBC fan shroud from a '73 up truck with a few minor mods. I ended up with the fan half in and half out of the shroud just like it should be. I'm glad I heeded that warning.....

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I added a 4" lift and ended up with something that looked like this:

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I built my own exhaust system for it; a dual 2.5" into a single 3.5". It sounded great.
I drove the truck around the block a couple times and then, then, I bought one of these:

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Yes, it is a Cummins 6BTA. It is a first gen unit and I got a complete Banks kit with it. I basically bought a Banks kit and got a 6B thrown in for free. So I tore the 454/TH475 out of it and sold them, had a little boy and it has sat in the driveway for the past five years.

But recently things have changed.
A test fit:

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and installed:

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Notice a partial hydroboost unit on firewall.

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I set the motor as far back and as far down as I could. The far back is good--I have lots of room for the fan and clutch. the far down is preparing itself to kick me in the junk on the first trail outing: (it's hard to see in the pic, but there is about 4" of clearance between the D44 housing and the crossmember--I'm really going to aggravate this clearance with the D60 I have for it) The sides of the crossmember are 45deg, but the bottom of the crossmember is actually not level. It is canted up on the diff side to create a bit more clearance. I don't like it, but I don't want to raise the motor and I don't want more suspension lift.

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I devised a simple crossmember to support the back of the motor utilizing the lower two transmission mounting holes to support the engine in the correct location without a transmission, so I can set up the underhood "things" without having to build the trans right now.

Well, I am tired of typing and loading pics, so the story will end here for today. Stop back to read of further adventures in the future.
 
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With the crankshaft centered between the frame rails, the turbo was all over the evaporator housing--not good. I had two options; one was to scrap all of my work on my existing evap housing and go with a Vintage Air type setup -or- find a different manifold. I was leaning toward the second option because the manifolds are actually priced quite reasonably. At some point I got a strange idea to try inverting the manifold to see if anything changed. Boy howdy, it sure did. Everything ended up fitting great. The best part of the whole thing--IT WAS FREE!!!

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Then it was on to the intercooler. I made this cardboard silhouette to get it exactly where I wanted it. It looks extremely simple, but that thing too about an hour and fifteen minutes to make.

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Now, for all that work, all that I really needed was the ends to located a couple holes because the Banks intercooler for the first gen Dodges is not flat on the engine side. I *believe* the engine side of the outer "tanks" are tapered for condenser clearance, but since I rear mounted my condenser, I wanted to "flush mount" the back of the intercooler to the core support. This required precisely locating where the "tanks" taper and that is what the vertical lines indicate.

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Now that I knew where they needed to be, all I had to do was trace them out onto the surface that is not flat.

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Then, all I had to do was cut them out.

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Then throw an intercooler at it. This pic shows the high mount turbo configuration. It looks kind of strange from this angle, but with all the accessorial crap going on the motor (and from a different angle) it looks pretty cool up there.

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This pic illustrates the way the mounting tabs are configured. I *could* cut them off and re-weld them in a better place, but since the nearest TIG welder I have access to is about 40 miles away I decided to do something different. I took the rubber isolators off of the engine side and mounted them on the front and made two small plates to cover the hole that was cut for the tabs to go through and bolted the rubber isolators to the back side of the plates. It worked slick and actually looks ok (once the grille is in, they will pretty much be hidden by the intercooler itself). Also, this pic shows the full height condenser pretty good.

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That's all for today.
 
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Awesome looking work as per usual and well thought out as always. Sometimes being anal can pay off. It brings alot of happiness to me and leigh seeing her old burb getting the work she deserved. And it only took 5 years to get the rear in gear to get after it but i understand what it takes to get anything done with having kids in the mix. Finally got a well off and after 2 nights of staying up till 5 am the shop is cleaned....organized and i can now finally start the finish work on the 79. The spare room is always ava for you and the fam when she is in camping - roadworthy form.

DW
 
Pretty awesome. I love burbs.


But did you know the exhaust manifold on your engine is upside down? Did you do that on purpose? flip it over and the turbo will be in its natural low slung spot, may help your clearance issue? I've only seen flipped manifolds on twinturbo setups to make room for the big secondary underneath.
 
Pretty awesome. I love burbs.


But did you know the exhaust manifold on your engine is upside down? Did you do that on purpose? flip it over and the turbo will be in its natural low slung spot, may help your clearance issue? I've only seen flipped manifolds on twinturbo setups to make room for the big secondary underneath.

Yes, it is very intentional. Right above the pic of the manifold is the reason why it is so:

With the crankshaft centerd between the frame rails, the turbo was all over the evaporator housing--not good. I had two options; one was to scrap all of my work on my existing evap housing and go with a Vintage Air type setup -or- find a different manifold. I was leaning toward the second option because the manifolds are actually priced quite reasonably. At some point I got a strange idea to try inverting the manifold to see if anything changed. Boy howdy, it sure did. Everything ended up fitting great. The best part of the whole thing--IT WAS FREE!!!

The manifolds are symmetrical front to rear and very often used in the up-mount configuration (I learned this in my many hours on Cummins Quickserve looking for odd parts that I had no CPL number to help me in my search). I was going to go with a straight down unit, but with all the other money I am giving to Cummins, I figured this would work good and best of all, I actually like how it looks. Twins?? Well that just might be in the plans....
 
I see intercooler aligment i think. though that leads my next question then whys the IC upside down? just curious.

I've got HX40 over HT3B on mine. I had 40 over HT4C with 26cm turbine housing, was way too laggy though. I just didn't have the fuel to push it. but the 3B is sweet with 22cm

very cool build though.
 
I see intercooler aligment i think. though that leads my next question then whys the IC upside down? just curious.

Honestly, I didn't know it was. I wanted to run it inverted from what it is now, but that bracket on the bottom was giving me fits and the shape of the inner fenderwells would have made the plumbing of the I/C an absolute bitch. With all that considered, I decided to run it the way it is. Plumbing was much easier, but I have to run a battery on each side instead of both on one side.

very cool build though.

Thanks!! Now get going on yours!!
 
I'm actually just waiting on my 47RH to get back from the rebuilder. and then we're going to hit it over a weekend coming up soon. should be sweet. I'm loving cummins and GMs.
 
Saturday night I got some serious work done on the power steering lines. Finding hydroboost fluid lines for a '72 Suburban with a Cummins is a bit tougher than it sounds. I found some that are pretty close and I have them roughed in pretty well. I was planning on getting them finished today after the sun put the truck in the shade, but sometime after I closed up shop on Saturday and before I got up Sunday, some schlup decided my mailbox would look better on the ground instead of remaining atop its stick in the ground. So, today, instead of making forward progress on my big orange yard ornament, I got to do mailbox repair. Next time they try it they had better bring hand tools or a saw.

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By the time I got done with this and cleaned up, it was time to call it a day.
 
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Thanks for the kind words.

So, once I got the motor in the frame, I was greeted with a problem that would require significant amounts of cash to solve. The fan hub my motor came with drops the fan down and kicks it over to the driver's side. This created two issues: One was the fan was too low. With the motor set as low as it is, the fan was literally a couple thousandths from hitting the crossmember below it. The second was with the hub kicked over to the driver's side, it made using some type of production GM fan shroud impossible. I managed to solve both of these issues by taking a dumptruck full of money down to my Cummins supplier and trading the money (and the dumptruck) for two parts.
Original Fan Hub

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Mounted on engine. (I used some caustic cleaner on the motor that destroyed the Cummins paint pretty good)

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Original hub on left, new, platinum plated, diamond encrusted hub on right

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Of course, with that new hub, I'll need a gold plated pulley to accessorize it:

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Now, with all that being done, I acheived a few things. I am able to clear the crossmember with the fan--good. It brought the fan back to the center of the motor, so the use of a production shroud of some sort is a possibility. The last thing I acheived was I gained more distance from the hub to the radiator as this pic (poorly) illustrates

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That additional clearance gives me more than enough room to run one of these!!

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Yes, as a matter of fact it is a brand new (NOS) Horton electromagnetic fan drive (clutch). These thing have been discontinued for many, many years. I have been looking for one for many years and never came across one. That all changed recently, so now I have the fan clutch I wanted for this motor and the room to run it!!

More to come. Stay tuned.
 
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Long ago, I took the Cummins water inlet housing and cut about one inch off of the hose nipple, then took a small block water pump and cut the inlet off of it. I gave that to a co-worker to turn down the iron above the hose nipple to the i.d. of the Cummins inlet then brazed them together. I ran into some interference with the frame though. The top of the frame rail flares up in the area of my water inlet rendering it useless--swell. I have made other plans since (another trip to the Cummins supplier with a dumptruck.....) so this setup is not going to be used, but the "flare" still creates an issue with the new plans. (The first few pics of the Cummins installed show this flared lip better than this pic)

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So I removed the "flare"

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Made a template

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My personal machinist Russ, alias BadDog, hooked me up with a chunk of frame to make a filler piece out of so it would be of similar metallurgy.

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I then cut it out

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Then welded it in and painted it. It is hard to see in the pic, but the top of the frame rail is flat from left to right (inside to outside).

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Then I got to work on the fan shroud. After I mounted the fan on the platinum plated, diamond encrusted fan hub I started taking some measurements. I was coming up with dimensions within 1/8" of the dimensions of the 73+ big block shroud I modified for the 454. Hmmm, this could work. I dropped it in for a test fit and it hit the crank pulley something fierce. So I took a couple measurements and determined removing one inch off the engine side of the shroud should make it fit. Hmmm, how to cut one inch off accurately so that it doesn't look like you mixed a twelve pack and a chainsaw to get your results. I thought about a few possible options and came up with one that worked pretty good. I put a miter gauge in my jigsaw and set it at one inch. Then I cut into it and spun the jigsaw around the inside diameter of the shroud cutting exactly one inch off of the shroud. I dropped it in for a trial fit and it passed. Fan blades are half in and half out just like they should be. I still have the stock viscous fan clutch on it in the pic.

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I know very little about working with plastics, so I did not know what to try to clean up the burrs from cutting and generally smooth out the surface. I threw a piece of 80 grit on the D.A. and got at it. Man, that worked friggin' sweet. Easiy cleaned it right up and was able the chamfer the edge to make it look nice.

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Lastly, I got my power steering cooler mounted. I wanted to mount it to the back of the intercooler, but the mounting was going to interfere with "future plans". I decided to mount it directly to the condenser. I did not want to, but my options were limited. It actually mounted up well and does not move at all, so there it stays. I also mounted the power steering filter, but I forgot to take a picture of it.

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