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shop woodstove 24" lift kit / now v2.0 with medium fan upgrade & filter setup

sweetk30

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I got so tired of getting down on the ground to empty and load this wood stove I decided to chop up a old angle iron bed frame I had and add in a few more sections left over from a project .

24" lift kit for the wood stove for the win :saweet:

2 simple frames that are just 1/2" bigger than the outside of the stove so it sits inside of it .

4 legs to raise up 1 frame . and 2 diagonal braces to take out the wobble 1 in the rear and 1 in the wall side . this leave the bottom open for wood storage .

only had to remove 1 full section of pipe to reconnect it . do need to redo the wiring tho . that will be easy . 1017151531a.jpg 1017151706a.jpg 1019151226a.jpg
 
scored a perfect lift straight up with a engine hoist lifting it .

last pic you can see 1 side angle brace . the rear is real hard to make out .

left 2 sides open for storage of wood .
 
got my 4 12"x6" vent box's in the celing today . 2 mid shop and 2 at beginning of wall that jump up to 12' tall.

all 4 vent's can shut on/off so I can control the air flow needs .

went to the local hvac wholesale place before work and got 16 5ft lengths of 6" and 2 8" 5ft lengths and 90's for hook up's .

just got to craw up in there and hook it up .
 
well got 90% of the duct work its self in and screwed together .

also got the 2 new 5ft long/tall in this case 8" units up and in to the celling to the shop attic space . just need to hook them up to the 2 main runs and we will be done .

local spray foam company that's doing the whole shop Monday said they can also do the duct work for me to keep the attic space from sucking away heat / adding it in during hot summer months .

pics will be posted later tonight of current progress.

and I had a few 2ft sections of pipe so I didn't have to cut down 5ft sections and lets just say after using local wholesale company stuff ( snappy brand ) that CRAP they sell at lowes is JUNK and cost more than quality stuff.
 
few pics

had to redo the wiring around the area were the 2 8" pipes go up in . and needed to be done cause when they put this stove in the exhaust pipe was to close to the wiring and started to melt / deform the plastic conduit pipe .

now with the 45* angles in and run away its all good .

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Having the wood stove elevated off the floor is also a good idea in a shop,because any gas or flammable vapors tend to hug the floor level..it might also allow better circulation of the heat also..

My 55 gallon drum stove in the main area of my quonset is sitting on the floor,and I have thought about raising it up using cinder blocks,so I won't need any pipe to connect it to the flue opening,and just one elbow,instead of two..it would likely have better draft by eliminating one "right angle" turn to get to the flue..
 
I also hear you regarding the "junk" stove pipe sold at Lowes and Home Depot...stuff is thinner than tin cans,and rots away in one or two seasons..and the employees there think its OK to use the galvanized DUCT pipe for a wood stove--not a good idea in an enclosed building,as zinc fumes can be released in the high temps a wood stove creates !..(though I admit I have used it in my garage,right now I'm using up some free 7" galvanized oil furnace pipe I got free ,I find only right where the pipe joins the stove gets hot enough to melt the zinc off)..my quonset is far from airtight too..

I bought a 2 foot length of 6" stainless steel pipe back in 1992 when I erected my quonset,and though I thought at 35 bucks it was a ripoff,its still in nice shape,I used it to connect the stove out to the chimney,so its been exposed to the weather all those years..

I would like to find a sheet metal place that "rolls their own" stove pipe--its worth the extra money for thicker and better quality steel..when I used to work in an auto parts store that had a semi truck parts section,I bought a 10 foot length of 6" straight exhaust pipe--it was 16 gauge,weighed over 100 lbs!..had to use perforated metal straps to hang it off the wall,and it lasted almost 15 years,before the bottom of it finally started developing pinholes..that pipe wasn't cheap either,it cost me almost 100 bucks..
 
well other than few wraps of 3m duct tape and just over 1 dozen screws I have it done . left the 1 section loose for now so they can get over / in to the paint booth celling area easy . then when done with that I will pop it in and screw it so they can spray it all.

used the valley space on the rafters to run the ducts . then few scrap 1x1 to hold the pipe up .

next was the turns at the beginning from the 2 8" up in to the attic area with reducers down to 6" for the elbo's and duct lines .

last is 1 of 2 tee's to drop the center area down . then it runs the rest of the way to the end line both sides .

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yes . it will be my main heat source for major heat needs .

then the modine hot dawg is for shop temp maintance at around 45-50* all the time .

that way moisture is out of shop on daily bases and stuff is at a min temp .
 
all foamed up and working great .

once stove good and warm I average 110-125 out the end vents with the middles open .

tonight few hr's after the stove was off no fans on blowing air I checked and had a 40* temp difference inside to the outside of the foam . so it is doing a great job for sure !

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oh ya no more in/out get some and do few trips . . . . .

its in side !

top left about 8ft up and out to around 10 ft by edge of window . then small section in front as you see.

and my cut up scrap cardboard for starter material .

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so she has been doing good . . . but time for a upgrade .

the tiny factory installed fans move hardly any air and 1 died and there crazy money to replace .

so I texted my friend in the hvac biss . he found me this for 40 bucks . just need a motor 2 pulleys and a belt.

and for size reference that 5 gal bucks fits in the outlet.

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well big update today . . hvac santa showed up with some fancy made panels and filter box for me . also i still have the MEGA fan but still need a motor for it and its super tight under there so i scrapped a house furnace with a good fan unit and motor . its a 10" x 10" cage and 1/3 hp motor . with the pulley size on it the big wheel / cage spins around 680rpm now and comes out around 1775 cfm range . so this is almost 2/3rd more than my 1100 cfm combo factory .

will get this ready for the swap over soon . i hit up the local hardware store today and got some 5/8" self tapper screws and 1/4" x 1/2" wide foam to seal up the small gaps around it .

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fab work today . fan is in and moves a LOT of air just hanging there i think we will get more moving in the shop with this guy .

also got 1 panel on and i am whipped from up/down /up/down crawl around / bend in/out of this cage . i will do more in the next few days .

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I have several of those squirrel cage blowers I saved off old junk hot air furnaces..ranging in size from about a 10" impeller,to a big one with a 25" impeller..

I used a small one in my garage for the wood stove,I put a 1/10 HP electric motor off a fan I had and used a 10" pulley on the blower and a tiny 1" pulley on the motor ,so it would spin very slowly--I found if you ran it at higher RPMS it simply cooled off the air you were circulating too much,made a cold breeze,unless you had the stove ripping..

I was tempted to mount the largest blower on the endwall of the garage for an exhaust fan,I would have if I hadn't already put a 24" regular exhaust fan with a louver on the wall..the squirrel cage is much quieter,and moves a ton of air,probably more than the existing exhaust fan,that sounds like a Cesna when its running..

Another use for the larger blower,is I've used it to dry off the concrete floor in my garage after I hosed it out,or had a lot of snow on my truck that melted--just plop it on the floor and prop up the back end a bit with a block of wood so it blows on the floor good..takes about 15 minutes to evaporate all the moisture out of the concrete..

I had to add a piece of plywood across the outlet on it,if you do not restrict the air flow on either the air intake or the outlet,it makes the motor strain to power it--blocking it off about halfway increased the rpms a lot,and let the motor run without struggling..they are designed to have some "back pressure" when installed in a furnace duct setup..

I made a big leaf blower out of the biggest blower,I put it on an old push mower deck and powered it with a 5 HP gas engine..
It worked great,better than a "Billy Goat" leaf blower I had that was factory built..
 
well today was the day to finish it . my friend who made my panels and filter box showed up with the rest and we banged it out in under 2 hr's time .

she is much better on the sound output from the old fans hanging off the back side .
she moves a lot more air but NOT super fast race track speed system . i would say a solid double of the old speed and thats exactly what i was shooting for .

from the end ducts outlets its prob a solid 30-35 ft back to the stove . i can stand 5-6ft off to the side of the stove now and feel the air moving just a little . so this should be the BIG ticket for what i was shooting for .

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