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2wd/4wd frames and suspension

cabledawg

cabledawg

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I know there are alot of topics started already, but I got a headache just trying to narrow down my searches.

I have a 3/4 ton 2wd Burb and just got a matched set of f/r axles to convert it to 4wd. I couldnt score the suspension, but got all the steering stuff minus the box and pitman arm. What I'm trying find out is if the frame on a 2wd rig is the same as a 4wd and how hard is it to add the 4wd suspension? I have access to a cutting wheel/grinder to get the 2wd stuff out, but not a welder or torch to modify brackets to fit. I have only simple fab skills, so anything bolt in is always the best bet for me. You guys have always helped me out with my addiction, can I get one more fix?:confused:
 
I can tell you that there are some differnces. I bought an aftermarket engine crossmember meant for a 4x4 and the holes dont all line up. 2 of the 6 holes lined up. The engine mounts are differnt. Also the front most crossmember is differnt so a steering box brace doesnt fit.

Granted I am compairing a 79 2wd frame to an 84 4wd frame. Those years are differnt body wise, so I dont know if the frame differnces I am seeing are because of the year. Also the 84 4wd is a 3/4 ton and the 79 2wd is a 1 ton.

Once you remove the 2wd stuff you are going to have 2 big holes in the frame per side where the upper a-arm bolts go through. Im not sure if that is going to cause a weak point or not.
 
I have a 4wd 1/2 ton of the same year as the 2wd I'm converting, but the 2wd is 3/4 ton and I didnt think the two would be comparable for measurements. I do have a friend with a 91 3/4 ton 4wd Burb, I s'pose I could use that as a basis for measurements, ya think?
 
original balzer said:
I can tell you that there are some differnces. I bought an aftermarket engine crossmember meant for a 4x4 and the holes dont all line up. 2 of the 6 holes lined up. The engine mounts are differnt. Also the front most crossmember is differnt so a steering box brace doesnt fit.

Granted I am compairing a 79 2wd frame to an 84 4wd frame. Those years are differnt body wise, so I dont know if the frame differnces I am seeing are because of the year. Also the 84 4wd is a 3/4 ton and the 79 2wd is a 1 ton.

Once you remove the 2wd stuff you are going to have 2 big holes in the frame per side where the upper a-arm bolts go through. Im not sure if that is going to cause a weak point or not.
Click to expand...

I know at least on my 2wd the front frame is shorter so the 4wd motor mounts didn't fit. I have one shortened one if you wanna pay shipping. Or you could ship me your other and I could cut and weld it for you to match. I'm not sure if they would raise or lower the motor though.

For the front suspension I bet the Diy4x B52 kit would work, you could call him up with some dimensions and he could do something custom for you, hes a great guy.

This guy used stock brackets

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r118/DavidWhymore/MyFlippedBlazerTruggy/WIDE.jpg

And here is my build, it may help you some

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=700682&highlight=78stepsideuak10&page=2
 
I've seen some bolt in brackets for the front, but what about the back of the spring? I know there is some sort of eye bushing in the frame for the top of the shackle, but I dont recall seeing an open hole large enough to just bolt something in. Is there some sort of below frame bracket that can be used?

I saw somewhere that a guy used part of an old spring and bolted/welded one half of the spring to the bottom of the frame. Then using the spring eye as the shackle mount. Supposedly allowed more articulation in the front without having to go with softer springs or a four-link setup. I was planning on installing a lift kit anyways, so could that be a viable solution?

Edit: This truck isnt being used for much more than light towing and my disaster recovery vehicle that was supposed to happen to the 1/2 ton, but rust has overtaken the body enough that I'll just start with another truck, hence this 3/4 ton that is fairly rust-free. I say this because the Burb isnt used for heavy towing, snow plowing, rock crawling or anything else that really stresses suspension parts. Just daily driving and the occasional rough terrain or the possibilty of high water crossings or impassable roads.
 
cabledawg said:
I've seen some bolt in brackets for the front, but what about the back of the spring? I know there is some sort of eye bushing in the frame for the top of the shackle, but I dont recall seeing an open hole large enough to just bolt something in. Is there some sort of below frame bracket that can be used?

I saw somewhere that a guy used part of an old spring and bolted/welded one half of the spring to the bottom of the frame. Then using the spring eye as the shackle mount. Supposedly allowed more articulation in the front without having to go with softer springs or a four-link setup. I was planning on installing a lift kit anyways, so could that be a viable solution?
Click to expand...


Nothing prefab that i know of and if it were, it'd cause some serious caster/pinion angle issues unless the front of the spring were dropped equally and now your into larger lifts just to bolt the suspension on.

The spring setup your talking about is called a 3/4 elliptic.
 
Well good news and bad news. Good news is that I found some front spring brackets that I think would work. DIY4x has them and while they are designed to replace stock springs for 52" springs, I can use them as I'm starting from scratch on the front suspension anyways.

The bad news is that the 2wd frame doesnt have the frame holes for the rear shackle hangers. So its either cut holes for a stock setup or go with the 3/4 elliptical idea. Which would you do?
 
Two holes with a hole saw will be far easier than a 3/4 elliptical

I don't know how well the 52's up front will work for towing though, they will ride great
 
cut the holes in the frame. Im not sure if Kert has them or not but I know ORD has the shackle frame eye hanger that upgrades to a bigger 9/16 bolt. I sugest you go that route and use greaseable shackle bolts.

EDIT: Kert (DIY4X) does have them definatly buy from him, AWESOME products and AWESOME service. You can get everything you need from him.
 
cabledawg said:
Sounds like a plan!

Out of curiosity, how much lift does the 52" springs produce over stock?
Click to expand...

4" approx. Somewhat depends on what springs you use, the condition of them as well as end shackle angle.
 
It'll probably be junkyard finds until I know everything works, then I'll spend the money on new stuff. Four inches will work good as I was thinking of getting a rear shackle flip and try for 4" all around.
 
i am in the process of doing this myself on my 73 crewcab 2wd. i used the parts ( front spring hangers/core support mount, the front shackle frame hangers.) from my 79 blazer to mount the suspension. i am using the 2wd engine mounts and doing some fab work to tie them into a crossmemeber. all the 2wd drive stuff unbolts. the front shackle hanger you just use a hole saw to drill the hole. the nice thing is you can put it where it needs to be for good shackle angle. i searched this site for old posts on this and got tons of info for shackle angles and other stuff.

im waiting on leaf springs right now.
 
Yeah I just found out that the engine crossmember is tied into the front suspension. So I'll be looking for a new crossmember now. I knew this would be a big project, but man I'm glad I'm doing some research before taking the first piece off.:eek1:
 
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