3” Lift Block with no taper? (UPDATE)

[1-ton]

I am looking for a 3” tall 2-1/2’ wide lift block with no taper. The reason I need one is because I have installed a shackle flip, and a 3” lift block on the rear of my truck. The tapered lift block along with the shackle flip is turning the pinion up too high, and creating an operating angle of 5-degrees difference between the rear diff pinion and the drive shaft. I have looked around, and no one seems to offer a 3” lift block with no taper. Has anybody ever heard of a 3” lift block with no taper? If I can get a set of 3” lift blocks with no taper, the pinion to drive shaft operating angle should be perfect, and well within the Spicer Corps 3-degrees of operating angle recommendation. I may have to get a custom set made. (I already know the arguments against lift blocks, so do not bother please.)

 

[Muddytazz]

The only 3" blocks I've ever seen on the market are made out of aluminum and are on the market for lowriders. Might have have to go with a custom set.

 

[ryan22re]

why not buy one and then have it machined flat?

 

[1-ton]

why not buy one and then have it machined flat?

The problem with that is the narrow side of a tapered 3" block is 2-1/2". I would have to machine it to the narrowest side, which would make it 2-1/2" tall. I do have a set of 4" tall blocks I might be able to do this with. I will have to look into it.

 

[oneofthefewbmx]

why not put the blocks in backwards to point the pinion down....i had to put my shims in backwards to fix my pinion when i put in my reverse shackles...putting the blocks in backwards should point the pinion around level, maybe up just a little...i would look into that....if not you may just get them machied flat as stated above

 

[ryan22re]

if it were me, id use solid blocks, not the hollow ones.

just personal opinion.

 

[1-ton]

why not put the blocks in backwards to point the pinion down.

Damn! Why didn't I think of that. That should work...I cannot see any reason why not, unless anybody else can? Good thinking dude!

 

[oneofthefewbmx]

it worked for my truck...you should be alright

 

[Blue85]

Well how much taper is on the block? It may go too far the other way if you turn it around. Plus, that will put a really big angle in the lower (rear) joint and it could bind when you brake or otherwise droop the rear axle.

I think 3* is still too much of a difference. I like to aim for 1*.

I have cut these blocks up before with good results. Just grab some standard 4" tapered blocks and use an angle grinder/cutoff wheel to cut off the part you don't need (or a bandsaw or whatever you have...) then clean up the bottom with a grinder or sander to make it flat. The only trick is to get a pin that sticks out from the bottom, but you can make one by cutting off the shoulder section of a bolt. I know Rough Country also makes these pins.

 

[1-ton]

Well how much taper is on the block? It may go too far the other way if you turn it around.

It should work perfect...according to the numbers I got using my angle finder. Currently, the pinion is pionting up to high. I measured the diff pinion to drive shaft operating angle, and it was 5 degrees. the lift block has a 4-degree taper, thus if I turn around the lift block, this should give me a 1-degree operating angle; which is well within the Spicer Corps recomendation of no more than 3-degrees of operating angle.

 

[1-ton]

I turned my lift blocks around, and now the drive shaft operating agnle at the diff pinion is perfect. Thanks to user "oneofthefewbmx" for coming up with such a simple idea, I should have thought of myself in the first place.

 

[oneofthefewbmx]

no problem...if i can help w/ anything else, lemme know

 

[prolinews]

Ah ha!

 

[cybrfire]

Actually, turning a 4 degree block around will change the pinion by 8* rather than 4. You were 4 up and you will be going 4 the other way.