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3” Tuff Country with 36” TSL’s?

badbowtie03

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Hey everyone I was curious... how hard would it be to fit 36” TSLs on an 87 K5 with the tuff country 3” lift? It has 32x11.50s on it stock now and they fit easy. I am not scared to use the sawzall but didnt want to have to cut a TON and make the fenders look weird. Should I just stick wirh 33” TSLs? I was wanting to go with intercos radial version and they dont have a 35”... Let me know what yall think. Does anyone have any pics of this setup? Thanks!
 
All about back space n where axle sits in the wheel well. I had an 84 with 6” lift n 35s n rubbed full lock full stuff. Only 3” difference between a 36” n 33”, but in actuality it’s a HUGE difference. I think gonna havta hack quite a bit.
 
A 36x12.5" TSL is probably 5" taller and 2" wider than a radial 32x11.5. The tires would clear a lot better if you push the front axle forward an inch, as long as you don't mind that it looks a little different than stock. This would require a sway bar disconnect type system (to avoid the binding) but you usually need that anyway when going from stock springs to lift springs. There are also real clearance gains just from cutting off the inner rolled lip just at the rear bottom of the wheel well opening and it still looks stock.


https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-will-my-k5-truck-look-with-xx-tires-on-xx-of-lift.170627/
 
Yeah gotta think about this... only 3.73 gears too. So i know a 33 is better but obviously the 36” would be nice. They are also about $75 bucks more a piece...
 
36s are a big tire. Pics are gone, (thanks Photobucket) but I did an SAS on a GMC 1 ton using 4" springs. Mounts are 3", so figure spring setting had about 5" of lift. I had them on 8" wheels, tho they didn't rub, they were big. I had a set of plane 'ol 35s on it and looked like a roller skate. Don't think an inch makes a difference, but swampers run tru or very close to size. I have the hard pic somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.
 
I had 36x12.50x16.5” TSL’s on an ‘85 K20 with stock springs.

I had the factory 56” springs in the rear, and a set of three pack springs from another truck, with a 1” zero rate in the front.

A little trimming was required, plus I used narrow GM wheels (16.5”x6.5”).

Martin
 
I cut off the front fang.

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Minimal trimming on the rear of the front fender.

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Worked well.

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Martin
 
These are really close to the same size but on a 1 ton. I think you'll be pretty good with barely any trimming.

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I just bought into the premium membership here is what the k5 looks like... but I cut off that silly light bar that my buddy welded to the roof... we used it for hunting hogs at his farm before i got it from him. Now i am fixing it up and getting it running good and looking better for running to town in and the trails.

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I'm going to say you'll end up needing more along the lines of a six inch lift for tires that big. Since you purchased 12.5" width you'll get away with a lot less lift than if you'd have purchased 15" wide tires. Width is usually the factor that makes the biggest difference in clearances in my experience. YMMV.
 
dont forget only 1/2 that height difference goes up in the fender . the other half goes down to the road .

I agree but half goes toward each edge of the fender at the front and back also. Those tires look like they'll come awful close to the "fang" on that front fender. Just going off of looking a the pics of the two tires side by side. Square body trucks have a lot of room at the top, not as much front and back. (Guess he'll find out how they fit pretty soon.) OP, keep us posted on how things go!
 
Just finished! After closer inspection the rear of the front fender has already been trimmed a little. The front has not. BUT on the road or turning there is no rubbing yet... im sure maybe with more flex? I am having one problem though... thing drives perfectly smooth while running down the highway... but when you decelerate there is now a whirring/whirling/a little bit scratchy sound I think in the front end... yall think pinion angle or a U joint? It wasnt doing it before.. here is a before/after pic.. love it so far! Just need to figure out this sound...oh and it gained right at 6 1/2” at the fenders with the lift and tires.



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Typically new noises after a lift are U-joint angles in the rear driveline. Measure the angle of the T-case, rear pinion and driveshaft. The reason they don't rub is that you still have the swaybar connected.

The stance sure is better now! That's what I was saying earlier - a 36" swamper is bigger than a lot of 37" radials.
 

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