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3.08 to 4.10 gear any diffrence?

blackk5350

1/2 ton status
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I am taking out my 10 bolts this week FINALLY and putting in a 14 bolt and an 8 lug 10 bolt front:( well until i get a dana 44 or 60. anyways will i feel a diffrence in drivability on the highway or around town going from 3.08's to 4.10's. mostly i want better highway power because it downshifts like crazy on just the slightest of hills.

im running a

TH700R4
tbi 350
37" tires.

thanks
 
def. gonna get a higher gear ratio after i get a dana 44 or 60. As for the 14 bolt i need to find an open carrier to get a locker because im pretty sure mine has the gov locker in it. its just so annoying having to manually shift my automatic on the highway to get any power:mad:

thanks... by the way does anyone know if my stock rear brake lines will match up to the 14 bolts? i will be running drums for a little while.
 
dont put a 44 in place of the ten youll gain nothing, but do get a 60 and send me the front 4.10 gears from the 10 bolt :D
 
I am in the final stages of my swap(probly 30 more minits and it will be driving if I get off this computer lol) and in my case the brake lines were compatible. One thing to look at though is the banjo bolts on the calipers are bigger on the 3/4 tons, well, at least they were on mine('77 D44 8 lug) but luckily the end of the rubber hose that goes to the hard line up on the chassis was the same, so just swap to the 3/4 ton truck hoses and your golden. Another thing to remember is to grab the u-bolts and top plates for the 14 bolt as the 14 bolts axle tubes are bigger in dia...the 10 bolt ones won't werk. Front is a bolt in though. Save your 10 bolt calipers, you can use them later on your disc swap...

-John
 
thanks for the help guys. i guess i should order some new brake lines then. i guess for a 1977?(thats what my axles are)fronts. also im ordering my u bolts and top plates from ruffstuff.com i hope the 10" long u bolts will be long enough i have 4 inch lift blocks plus the springs. thanks guys ill take some pictures during.
 
fyi your front brake calipers will swap over to the 3/4 ton axle just bolt on.

unless you realy do need hoses and or drop / lift hoses.
 
fyi your front brake calipers will swap over to the 3/4 ton axle just bolt on.

unless you realy do need hoses and or drop / lift hoses.
so im hoping that the 1987 brakes will work on the rear 14 bolt(1977) drums?

am i missing anything besides u joint, u bolts top plates? and is 10" ubolts long enough for a 6" lift block witht he stock rear springs?
 
14ff brakes are much bigger. only thing that will swap is the brake hose and lines. the rest is diffrent.

i think some swap brake cables on some models thay swap. but not sure i run disk brakes.
 
yeah i got all the hardware to rebuild the massive drums. i was just making sure the lines from the drums to the distribution block for the brakes were the same.
 
The length of U-bolts needed for the rear will need to be about 1.5" longer than the diameter of the axle tube (3 3/8") + the thickness of the block (you said 6" block) + the thickness of your spring pack (probably close to 2" or so) so that would make the U-bolts needing to be 3.3/8" + 6" + 2" + 1.5" = 12 7/8" long.
 
thats a long u bolt. im not doubting you but ima go measure tommorow morning before work to make sure. i might just get some 6" spring so i wont have to deal with the stupid lift blocks. the thing is i need this to all be road ready by friday night. because im going on a 4 hour drive. so i want to test it out

Whats the estimated time of a 14 bolt 10 bolt axle swap with 2 people and a garage full of every tool.
 
thats a long u bolt. im not doubting you but ima go measure tommorow morning before work to make sure. i might just get some 6" spring so i wont have to deal with the stupid lift blocks. the thing is i need this to all be road ready by friday night. because im going on a 4 hour drive. so i want to test it out

Whats the estimated time of a 14 bolt 10 bolt axle swap with 2 people and a garage full of every tool.

The best method would be a 4" shackle flip and then some 2"-3" lift springs but I doubt you could order and get a shackle flip within your time limits.

That all depends on how wrench worthy you are. I could have that swap done in about an hour or so assuming that the brakes on the 14 bolt are good and nothing needed to be done.
 
The best method would be a 4" shackle flip and then some 2"-3" lift springs but I doubt you could order and get a shackle flip within your time limits.

That all depends on how wrench worthy you are. I could have that swap done in about an hour or so assuming that the brakes on the 14 bolt are good and nothing needed to be done.
how long does the full swap take and im thinking about replacing the rear springs with the 6" TC ez rides. is our rears 52" or 56"? by the way thanks for your help
 
how long does the full swap take and im thinking about replacing the rear springs with the 6" TC ez rides. is our rears 52" or 56"? by the way thanks for your help

Like I said, I could do a 10 bolt to 14 bolt swap in about an hour completed with brake bleeding and all. If you mean with swapping springs as well that is going to be dependant on the condition of the spring bolts. That alone could take you a couple hours if they fight you the whole way. If they aren't all rusted to **** then it might only add another 30 minutes to the swap.

Blazers are factory 52" rear springs.
 
Like I said, I could do a 10 bolt to 14 bolt swap in about an hour completed with brake bleeding and all. If you mean with swapping springs as well that is going to be dependant on the condition of the spring bolts. That alone could take you a couple hours if they fight you the whole way. If they aren't all rusted to **** then it might only add another 30 minutes to the swap.

Blazers are factory 52" rear springs.
sounds good. before i hit the sack, where should or where can i get those extra long u bolts and top plates for both axles. im trying to get everything ordered tonight. i might just keep it simple and swap the axles and leave the springs and lift blocks for the time being. my prob. is finding out what size ubolts and top plates i need since the axles are not here at my house
 
sounds good. before i hit the sack, where should or where can i get those extra long u bolts and top plates for both axles. im trying to get everything ordered tonight. i might just keep it simple and swap the axles and leave the springs and lift blocks for the time being. my prob. is finding out what size ubolts and top plates i need since the axles are not here at my house

Ok, I just went out and measured my U-bolts and they are 8 1/2" long and I DO NOT have any blocks. There is 3/4" of threads above the nuts. Use this to help you chose the correct length U-bolts for your application. You need to add the amount of lift block to the 8 1/2" length in order to get a U-bolt that will work for you. You could probably get away with a little less thread sticking up beyond the nuts but I wouldn't recommend it since that could make it harder to get everything bolted together.
 
will i feel a diffrence in drivability on the highway or around town going from 3.08's to 4.10's.

Are you kidding me? Not only will the gears give you 33% more torque at the same RPM, you will move the engine up into the powerband giving probably that much torque again. So that's like asking "will swapping a 454 in place of my 350 make any difference?" 3.08 with 37's is total crap - barely driveable and hell on the transmission.

4.10 is not deep enough for 37s. Trust me - I'm running this right now. 4.88 is what you want. Maybe 4.56 if they're already in the axles. Even 5.13 is good. But if 4.10 is the only choice right now, you will at least be able to drive the truck.
 
^^^Hahaha I just got rid of 3.07's and 39.5's! lmfao With my 3/4tons I now have 4:56's and 36's. HUUUUUUUUGE difference. She really gets with the program now lol

-John
 
Are you kidding me? Not only will the gears give you 33% more torque at the same RPM, you will move the engine up into the powerband giving probably that much torque again. So that's like asking "will swapping a 454 in place of my 350 make any difference?" 3.08 with 37's is total crap - barely driveable and hell on the transmission.

4.10 is not deep enough for 37s. Trust me - I'm running this right now. 4.88 is what you want. Maybe 4.56 if they're already in the axles. Even 5.13 is good. But if 4.10 is the only choice right now, you will at least be able to drive the truck.
that makes me feel 100 times better. i had a few people saying i would not see that much of a diffrence but i stood my ground until 5 people all said it wouldnt change much because of my tire size:confused::confused::confused:. but i knew my CK5 brothers would steer me in the right direction:thumb:
 
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